TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another MUST for a True Vintage Wardrobe – Authentic Costume Jewelry

No matter what else you’re wearing, or even if your jewelry is the only vintage piece in your outfit, it will stand out strongly. That’s especially true of these colorful and unique examples. Though cheap copy-cats are being made now, I still recommend the originals.

Fine true vintage jewelry in gold and silver is always special and wonderful but can be pricey. Costume jewelry is easier to find and softer on the budget. Collect a variety of styles and items – you’ll have something different for every day and just the perfect thing for every outfit.

Of course, it needs care but is exceptionally durable in general. Simple protection from scratches, rough handling and strong UV light for prolonged periods will do the trick. Compact and easy to store, though if you’re a sleuth with an extensive archive the files can become pretty heavy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . More accessories tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS SHOES FROM THE 1970’S

From the Seventies does Forties period, early in that decade, these beautiful leather shoes were made in South Africa. Couldn’t believe my eyes when I spied them. In wonderful condition, even though they were more than 30 years old at the time. I adore peep-toe pumps and virtually anything 1940’s, so this was a no-brainer. Also, investigating the clue was fascinating.

Made for Kinney in South Africa? Wow. Who knew? Of course, things made and sold in any of the countries which were part of the British colonies found their way all around the world, so could end up anywhere. I took them to a shoe repair to have one little piece of elastic on the straps replaced. The owner was a man from Europe who had made shoes there before emigrating. He corroborated my conclusion that these pumps had been very well-made.

Unfortunately, they were about 1/2 – 1 size too big for me and in an open style like this, that’s too much. The fit will be wonky and they’ll be unstable on your feet with not much you can do about it. So, a lucky gal in Australia profited from my discovery. Who knows what streets they’re walking now? I’m going to be on a shoe streak for a little while so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A “NEWER” VERSION OF THE CLASSIC CAMEL COAT FROM 1972

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Isn’t she a beauty? Purchased at Saks Fifth Avenue in Chicago. The label says that the camel hair is also blended with cashmere. Classic is always classic and this trench coat styling is always “new”, especially in a very well-made garment. Makes me feel just like Ingrid Bergman in Casa Blanca.

However, wonderful as this coat is I’ll have to show you a real 1940’s version, truly worthy of Ingrid’s character Ilsa and, of course, any Agent such as Moi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Pretty 1960’s – ’70’s Party Dress by Miss Elliette of California

I pulled this little beauty out of the archives to decide whether she gets a permanent place in the closet or the chopping block . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The 1970’s was not a banner decade for high quality fashion, in my opinion, but this is a lovely example of the mid-priced garments available then so worth collecting. It’s nicely designed and tailored with gathers at the neckline, knife pleating and piping finish at the neck and wrists; a flattering style with well-done tailoring details and features that were popular in some of the better dresses. Of course, a full matching lining in the body is essential.

Alas, it’s not a perfect fit nor the best color for me so it’s off to eBay. Sometimes, spycraft must be ruthless. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another True Vintage Accessory – Fabulous Spanish-made Boots

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These beauties were made in 1979! Wow, do I ever love them!! Soft, supple glove leather with leather soles and heels. All the beautiful workmanship that was expected in European-made footwear. Shoes from Spain and Italy, especially. Not sure if that’s true now, but it certainly was up to a couple of decades ago. Still have the original everything and they’re going strong!

Oldies really are the best goodies! And, on top of that, they don’t contribute to animal cruelty or inhumanity in the marketplace today. True vintage purchases, especially from a reputable charity shop or individual (do your research) is VEGAN and responsible. That can go for anything made of leather, skins or fur several decades ago. We can appreciate and get service from these vintage items without doing any harm to life or the environment today. That’s how to enjoy the best of the best. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

’60’S – ’70’S GREEN VELVET AT-HOME DRESS FOR THE WINTER HOLIDAYS

Pretty by the fire. This pine green beauty was home-tailored and even has a matching velvet shoulder bag which I discovered in a completely different location. Amazing!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A DISCO DANCE DIVA DISCOVERY FROM THE 1970’S

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Yes, at first glance this looks like so many cheesy LBD’S made today and that’s why some discriminatory powers are important to develop.  I can tell when something is true vintage or not, with a just little investigation.  This example was truly made about 40 years ago.

It is still not a prime favorite frock, but was worth picking up and I’ll keep it because it would make an outstanding costume for a play or Halloween (which is creeping up on us as we sit here!).  Keep your eyes open – it gets better . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM