Category Archives: British influence

TRUE VINTAGE MID – LATE 1960’S LONG LEISURE DRESSES – MOD, WITCHY, ETHNIC

British influence Medieval/Victorian/Edwardian vibes, Op-Art, Flower Power and Indigenous influences allowed mainstream women to enjoy some “revolutionary” style during this transformative decade while not getting too far away from classic traditions. Plus the fact that they couldn’t have been more comfortable, convenient and flattering.

Fabulous sleeves, hand-done embroidery, geometric floral graphics. Love, love, love! Of course I had to collect these clues. Tomorrow we’ll step into the progression of this genre in examples from the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S SWEATERS, WOOL SHIRT AND 2 JACKETS FROM THE 1960’S AND 1970’S

Here are a few of the iconic everyday styles seen frequently in menswear from the early 1960’s until the mid 1970’s. The 1970’s styles, shown in the center panel, are still probably in production. Cardigans and pullovers have been popular for men at least since the 1940’s. The styles produced in the 1940’s and 1950’s were most interesting, with colorful knitted-in patterns and leather inserts.

In the top panel, first shown is a woolen knit cardigan with embossed metallic buttons. It’s an imported European style. Second is a wool shirt, which has been a cold-weather casual staple for men for decades. The Henley neckline closure makes this one unique. After that, an iconic suede leather jacket with sweater-knit collar and sleeves. I have several of these in the archives, in different earth-tone colors. They are beautiful pieces which have, surprisingly, survived the decades in excellent condition. Next are 2 plain, standard cardigans which have been a part of almost every older man’s wardrobe (often with leather elbow patches) and younger mens’, too, especially when they have been designed as golf sweaters. The first, with patch pockets, is made of wool and is older – probably 1960’s. The second, in burgundy, is acrylic knit as is the light blue Izod V-neck. Standard 1970’s construction and fabric.

Finally, I picked this iconic Ted Williams hunting jacket to include in the post. Ted Williams was a famous baseball player and lent his name to this jacket sold by Sears & Roebuck in the early 1960’s. The label tells the marketing story and you can see the heavy knitted neckline. Cuffs are made of the same material. In front, the jacket zips and has standard-looking pockets. I have shown the back view because the rear “game pocket” is most visible. It extends across the lower back and opens with a zipper on both sides.

This find was an education for me, as I’d never heard of Ted Williams or seen this type of jacket before. What great clues in any investigation! Women’s styles tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S – ’50’S SEMI-FORMAL FROCK WHICH COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN FOR A BRIDE

Such an interesting frock. Midi length on Stella, but she’s tall so it could have been tea or floor length on a woman of short stature. I couldn’t decide whether this dress was tailor-made or purchased at retail, but I could find no labels. I suspect that it was custom-made for a cool-weather wedding and the style really makes me think of some Wartime or Post-war bridal dresses I’ve discovered. Could also have been designed for some other special event . . . . .

Pretty mid-weight textured but glossy fabric which may be synthetic or a blend. Unusual long sleeves; but the best thing about this style is the collar. Each layer is carefully supported around the edge with wire so that it can be shaped by hand. I’ve very rarely seen this and it helped me to date the garment. It came from Australia so I may notice a British influence(?).

More semi-formal and long dresses coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEST EVER PANTS FIND – 1960’S BELL-BOTTOMS

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I always have my eye out for great slacks like these, but they’re SO rare.  Love these late Sixties flares that are reminiscent of 1940’s women’s styles and sailors’ pants.  Such a treat to find slacks that fit like a glove.

The cut velour fabric is comfy but not too plush.  Good for wear in any cool weather (I like them most in Fall, of course) and also in a great neutral color; much more versatile than some of the wild prints from that time that are really Mod-cute but wearable with only one or two tops in the closet.

They’ll look great with that cheetah-print blouse from a few days ago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANTLY-TAILORED BOHO FORMAL FROM THE LATE 1960’S (IS THAT AN OXYMORON?)

via AN ELEGANTLY-TAILORED BOHO FORMAL FROM THE LATE 1960’S (IS THAT AN OXYMORON?)

BEAUTIFUL SCOTTISH WORSTED WOOL POST-WAR SKIRT SUIT

This is a magnificent find, with all the beautiful tailoring details that I love on post-war suits and dresses.  Notice the notched cuffs, fabric-covered buttons, interesting pocket treatment, back belt, button trim, interesting collar lapels with little embroidered detail and, of course, the fabulous fitted shape.

It’s worth every minute I’ll spend on altering the size to fit me (a simple job, in spite of the professional tailoring).  No need to hire this job out, which is an extra bonus.  Someone loved it very much over the years.  Just one little, tiny moth nibble on the back of a sleeve and, otherwise, no damage or noticeable wear.  Another mother-lode treasure!  And, as always, for a mere pittance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

“NEW” ACQUISITIONS – TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY AND 1980’S RETRO FOOTWEAR

Just picked these up as curiosity items, in the case of the boots, and fashion finds in the case of the wedgie sandals.  Great additions to my collection!

Let’s start with the boots.  They look like Sixties style(?) and have old metal Robin zippers up the side.  Made for super-practicality, as most fashion rain-wear was back in the day, they are one-piece rubber construction.  Not meant to wear in your garden like English Wellies, these were street-wear for very wet (or snowy) days.  Waterproof below the zippers.  I just love these everyday examples of true vintage products’ sensible value. Nothing frivolous or impractical here, but with a nod to fashion, as well.

Next we go on to a 1980’s brand that I collect whenever I find them – Penaljo made some wonderful 1940’s – 1950’s retro sandals and I show my latest find (the grey ones) along with some I already had (the green and cork pair).  Just love these for summer – so wartime/I Love Lucy.  ADORE wedge heels – very cute with shirtwaist and sun-dresses, capri’ pants or skirts. Leather construction with good attention to detail.  Worth picking up.   So, we’re on a roll.  Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPECIAL-PURPOSE LINGERIE SLIP – TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – MADE IN BRITAIN

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhat a surprise to find such an interesting, and USEFUL, slip to add to my collection!  Never seen one like this before, but I’ve certainly been in need of one.  It was made to wear with dresses like the one I showed yesterday – sheer all over.  I just happen to have a black one from the Fifties that needs an undergarment just like this one.

This slip (in my size, by the way . . .) is made almost like a dress.  It has a back zipper, a kick pleat in the skirt, and an opaque woven rayon skirt.  But, it’s undoubtedly a lingerie item.

The bodice is of sheer lace, fitted and with adjustable straps as you would expect with any slip.  Several features tell me that it is a 1950’s garment – not a modern copy-cat.

For the dress shown yesterday, in beige with a gold design, you would of course want a different color slip with no pattern – but the same features of fit and coverage would be just right. These discoveries are so much fun!  This time I can really call myself an “undercover agent” . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S AUSTRALIAN LINGERIE BED JACKETS – SO FRILLY & FEMININE

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt seems that the Australian women really loved these beautiful lingerie items.  I’ve found many in North America, but not as often as when I traveled there.  These are some of the prettiest ones I’ve seen, of those made after the 1940’s.  Nothing can beat the silk ones from before 1950!

Aside from the size differences between our two continents, there are some slight design features that are different, too. The Aussie versions seem to always be of two layers, or lined!

Perhaps this is because they have been imported from England (or the designs have), where cozier items would be more popular due to the dampness there.  It’s a bit of a mystery, and part of what makes these investigations so fun and so interesting . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM