Category Archives: ’90’s

1970’S – 1990’S DOES 1940’S. TRUE VINTAGE RETRO DRESSES AND JUMPSUITS.

The Seventies, Eighties and Nineties produced a lot of popular retail styles that imitated 1940’s designs. Some were very well done and others not so much, to be charitable. As I’ve said, it’s hard for me to call these decades true vintage but, technically, they are. The two purses echoing shapes and tapestry design popular in the Forties might have shown up in the 1960’s.

All of these could be fun and the reproduction details became best during the mid-1980’s but, unfortunately, modern polyester fabrics and production techniques lowered the quality a lot. No valid comparison, in my opinion, to true vintage from the 1940’s – even the home-sewn versions that were made from older clothing during rationing.

Of this group, the best-made is the black velveteen custom-tailored frock from the 1980’s or 1990’s. It was made by an expert seamstress and is worthy of being called a reproduction in the Post-war New Look style. The retail day-dresses are versatile and the prints are great – pretty faithful to authentic ones that I’ve come across. I always love the padded shoulders and cinched waistlines that are very flattering but were also a nod to the style of military uniforms. Jumpsuits were just for fun in the Seventies, but always are inconvenient. I suspect that the jumpsuits worn by women working in the war effort during the Forties had drop seats, which makes it a little bit better. I do have a pair of high-waisted slacks from the ’40’s that have an ingeniously-designed drop seat that looks quite good.

So, these clues were fun to find and seemed worthy of collection though I always prefer the real deal. Speaking of which, I just came across another archived file of true vintage 1940’s dresses which I will show tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – VINTAGE LADIES CLASSIC SHIRT WITH EXCEPTIONAL TAILORING

This blouse was worth collecting. I immediately recognized the fine cotton fabric and exceptional tailoring detail, worthy of mid-century ladies shirts though I suspect that this one was made in the 1980’s or ’90’s. The most interesting features are the French cuffs and the distinctively-shaped wing collar. Nicely fitted with front and back darts and a finished, straight hem. The seams are incredibly neat and overcast so carefully that they will stay strong for many years. They have also been reasonably well-matched. Little cufflinks are made from matching buttons but, of course, you could substitute any pair of cufflinks that you own. It’s also nice to see dyed-to-match buttons in a true vintage style as well as a covered-button placket construction, though these are not as unusual.

It’s always a thrill for me to find a garment made to these exacting standards. Finding one in any retail establishment, even lots of expensive ones, is rare. Just had to show you these recent finds but tomorrow we’ll return to the 1940’s and Post-WWII era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Cute LBD with Iconic Mid-century Tailoring Detail

I admit, this dress is no star with regard to overall quality. Very middle-of-the-road in that department, but I couldn’t help being struck by the embroidered sheer mesh bodice. This is a detail that I have seen in 1940’s and early 1950’s frocks; usually not since then. The gold thread gives it a holiday feel which makes styles like this appropriate for Christmas events. The fabric leads me to decide that this garment was made in the 1960’s at the earliest – possibly as late as the 1990’s.

I have to give the designer congrats for using this tailoring again. It’s so attractive and feminine, allowing for an interesting neckline without gapping, buckling or too much de’collete’ to allow it to be truly elegant. This frock drapes well and fits beautifully in the bodice. The only improvements I would point out might be a full lining, which would support the lines better without fullness. That would make it a very sophisticated cocktail dress. .

Of course, this one might have been a late 1970’s disco design in which case you wouldn’t want to add any bulk to the skirt or a potentially sweaty lining, for that matter. In any case, it’s cute and can stand proud exactly as it is. Stay tuned for more cocktail frocks, each with it’s own personal character . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Gallery of True Vintage Lingerie Slips

Here’s a sampling of my dozens of beautiful lingerie slips from several eras. True vintage lingerie is essential to wearing your dresses, blouses and skirts with their best fit and comfort. Slips can be fine cotton, rayon, silk, acetate or nylon. Designs can be highly decorated or very sleek and plain. It pays to have every type you can find in different lengths and colors. Some are so gorgeous they can be worn alone as “slip dresses”.

Matching your undergarments to your dresses in a way that minimizes binding, getting too hot or having some unsightly see-through makes all the difference in the final presentation of your outfits and your enjoyment of wearing them. Usually, you’re the only one who knows how truly beautiful your full or half-slip really is. Sometimes it’s fun to allow just a corner of lace trim to show beneath a hemline or at a neckline. In other words, have fun. Have a beautiful Thanksgiving holiday and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Formal for Holiday Season Gala Nights

Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.

The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.

So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

YEE-HAW! GIT ALONG LITTLE DOGIES! AN ICONIC WESTERN-WEAR LABEL SINCE THE EARLY 1900s

DSC00714

Yes, it’s a standard cotton cowboy shirt with snap closures.  An embroidered patch on the back indicates that it was worn by a rodeo showman.  It’s not that old – 1970’s – 1990’s probably, but the real treasure is the brand label.  Again, look it up on Wikipedia – very interesting history.

Of course, I look mostly for garments and accessories that I’ll add to my own wardrobe but this field of espionage is so fascinating that I sometimes take a little detour.  I wonder what may show up next?  You just never know   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFULLY-MADE VINTAGE BARBIZON COTTON NIGHTGOWN

DSC00701dsc00700.jpg

I’d been looking for a lightweight cotton nightie and, luckily, discovered this wonderfully-constructed example by Barbizon, the women’s lingerie manufacturer that opened in 1933.  This gown isn’t too old, made in the 1970’s – 1990’s time frame, but the brand label and quality made it worth picking up.

Though the name remains in the marketplace, the company is no longer in operation, as far as I can tell.  Many lingerie and sleepwear pieces can still be found in vintage clothing stores, on eBay and Etsy.   Barbizon garments were always well-made and pretty.  Though not from the eras that I enjoy most, this gown is classic in design and construction, so I couldn’t be happier.  Just what I was hoping for!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1990’S RETRO ’60’S MOCK-NECK SWEATER FOR THE LADIES

DSC00672

Although this top was made only 20 years ago and wouldn’t be true vintage in my book, it’s got the good retro design and quality construction that made it worth picking up.  It’s also a soft wool, with the back neckline zipper which was so popular several decades ago.

I like the design and even the color, which is actually a dark navy but it’s made for a larger gal than I so will probably find another home some day.  This blast from the past will last some girl for several decades more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE SIXTIES – STYLE SOUVENIRS – BASS WEEJUNS LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS

img_4009.jpg

This super-fun summer version of the classic Weejuns is still true vintage but a more recent incarnation – made in the 1980’s or 1990’s, sometime before 1993.  As we would expect, they are completely of leather excepting for some parts of the insoles.  So, that means that they can be repaired forever when some wear appears.

Completely classic.  How could I resist?

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM