SPECIAL WARTIME AND POST-WAR STYLES FROM THE 1940’S

Classic designs made subtle changes over the decade which reflect the evolution of style and the social and historical events taking place at that time. Party dresses for special occasions have always been a “thing”. Skirt suits from Utility-style in the mid-’40’s to embellished designs were more like couture garments in the Post-war years. A matching hat was always essential.

High-school Prom tradition is about 100 years old now. The popularity of skirt suits for women began about the same time. Since about 2000, traditional styles in both these categories have shifted in major ways, so the focus on these types of garments in my investigations has gone from around 1920 through the 1990’s, with the spotlight on 1930’s – 1980’s. The Forties through the Sixties have been my favorite decades for classic structured suits, as they were more like two-piece dresses before and after and very trendy in design. Good luck finding a true vintage suit or Prom dress from the 1920’s or even the ’30’s but after 1940 the clues are still out there.

Although there were some very nice styles from the 1920’s and 1930’s, the prettiest suits and formal dresses, in my opinion, came from the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. Lots of attention to detail, flattering fit and high quality. In decades after that, frocks were not as interesting and suits were generally more boring, too. Tomorrow I’m going back to late 1930’s – 1940’s for dresses with one or two ’80’s WWII retro styles thrown in. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S TRENDS IN DRESSES, HOUSEDRESSES & ACCESSORIES – TO THE START OF MOD

Casual cotton and cotton blend housedresses and model’s coats became really popular as styles started to become less traditional. Some of these dresses would even be seen at the grocery store or for other casual errands in warm weather. The shirtwaist dress was still around, of course, but was starting to take a back seat for everyday. The culotte mini/play-dress was also a new take on the 1940’s/’50’s romper. Casual designs like those shown above were still very well-made, generally, and had cute and pretty prints and tailoring elements.

Dresses with little matching jackets became very popular for everyday wear when a step up the dressy scale was called for – an important appointment, special event or church. The shoes, purses and hats are examples of those which might have been worn with dresses like this. The blue & green example above was home-sewn in the color combo that defined popular design in 1963. The prints on the two blue dresses in center are a harbinger of the MOD trend that was just about to erupt.

Stay tuned for a trip to the mid-1960’s tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE LINGERIE ROBES & SLEEPWEAR FROM 1930’S TO MID-CENTURY

I’m definitely in the mood to look at some pretty Spring lingerie, although it won’t keep us as warm. The 1970’s RED velour robe by Vanity Fair is an exception, but I had to include it for St. Valentine’s Day.

A floral heavy cotton housecoat robe from the 1930’s with big sculpted buttons was a fabulous find! See how it compares when we jump to the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s. Double-layer nylon peignoirs and gowns began to appear in the Forties and there were some beautiful ones in silk during the Thirties and Forties before WWII rationing disrupted all of that. Lots of great synthetic materials were developed during this time, however, and the 1950’s nylon used for sleepwear and slips is fabulous! Thick, glossy and still silky to the touch, it could be found into the 1960’s and very early 1970’s but since then has mostly been replaced by cheaper, poorer quality fabric that doesn’t feel or look the same and is definitely inferior.

Until then, we had this wonderful nylon that can be dyed in bright colors, lasts forever and feels like heaven on the body. Lingerie from this time also included beautiful tailoring and details like lace and embroidery which was high quality and didn’t come loose. Tiny pearlized plastic or fabric-covered buttons and satin ribbon were also common. That’s why these garments still look and feel so beautiful 50 – 70 years later!

This marvelous nylon was also used to make lingerie slips, of course, and women bought a gazillion of them while day dresses were still the standard outfit for daily wear. When we go back to looking at day dresses through the decades, I will be opening an archive of beautiful slips, too. First, I think our mid-century gal is getting back from her vacation tomorrow so we will see what she bought at the beach and start the dresses review afterward. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S AND LADIES’ SLEEPWEAR & ROBES FROM THE 1950’S & 1960’S

While our mid-century gal is off on her snowbird vacation (see posts from the last few days), Baby, it’s COLD outside here at home! Although Spring is just around the corner (yes, it really is), we still need to be snuggling into robes and pajamas at night. I love doing posts about my archives of true vintage lingerie because it’s always so interesting and pretty. So, let’s take a closer look at these files –

For the men, a swanky rayon bathrobe makes any guy an instant sophisticate. Abstract medallion print with satin trim. How aristocratic! As for the PJs, cotton print men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are so wonderful. Of course, they wear to cozy softness but the real star of the scene is the art prints that many of them displayed. This pair have stylized hand fans all over – an unusual motif for men’s PJs, but that’s what they are. Both pieces show the standard tailoring for men’s garments, though it’s fun for women to wear them, too.

For the ladies, true vintage sleepwear and robes are always so lovely. Even very plain ones seem to have pretty tailoring details. The rosy red robe pictured above is made from a plush fabric. Details include pretty buttons, satin piping on the collar and 3/4 length bell sleeves. The deadstock cotton PJs are plain but still have pretty lace trim and pearl buttons. I think the plaid fabric is quite nice, too. The thing I like most about these old-style pajamas is how the waistline is made. It does have some elastic around the back, but the front is plain and closes with a side button. It also has at least one hip pocket, which is surprisingly convenient.

Tomorrow, before our vacationer gets home, I’ll look at another true vintage sleepwear archive with more Spring-like styling. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WE’RE GOING TO A MID-CENTURY RESORT! LET’S CONTINUE PACKING TRUE VINTAGE SPORTY STUFF

Okay. A couple days ago she packed her swimsuit for the pool and the beach, short shorts and cute top and a skort for casual day play and sightseeing. Good start. Today she’ll concentrate on more sporty day outfits that will take advantage of the tennis court and boardwalk as well as lots of other fun activities.

Can’t forget her 1950’s play-suit! Love the funky drums motif and the cropped top. Very original. This one isn’t a romper – it will even let her go downtown after the badminton game. Can’t forget the matching Keds. When it’s time to go to the dining room, a simple wrap skirt from the ’60’s/’70’s is very appropriate and her cute handbag goes well with all outfits so far!! The white sleeveless top that she packed already is perfect with it. That’s the secret of great packing – mix and match. Oh, yeah – GOT to take her roller skates !!!!! Yes, they’re heavy but gotta have them.

All right. That’s enough for today. Packing always makes her tired with so many decisions and it’s easy to forget something important if she doesn’t take her time. Good choices so far, but there’s still more to do over the next few days. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FEBRUARY GET-AWAY . . . . LET’S GO TO THE SEASIDE – IN TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY STYLE!

Enough of the freezing temperatures and snow! Our mid-century gal is more than ready for at least 2 weeks at the shore, somewhere with warmth and sun. Plans are almost made but, Jeepers, – it’s time to pack!!

Okay. First thing on the list has to be her swimsuit. It’s too early for an itsy-bitsy, teeny-weeny bikini, but this cute two-piece will still have the guys looking. Made by Lantz, with a metal zipper in the back of the bottoms – to nip the waist just right. Next, some cotton short shorts by Bobbie Brooks, of course, and a cute white blouse to wear with. Maybe a divided skirt, too, when a little modesty is necessary (we didn’t call them skorts back in the day). Oh, gosh, she’d better pick one of those jackets I showed yesterday, too.

Well, that’s a good start, but she’s just getting going. This packing preparation will take at least two suitcases and probably several days. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S CUSTOM-TAILORED 2-PIECE DRESS, COORDINATING JACKET AND HATS!

Here’s another 3-season dress with known history. That’s always SO wonderful. It was passed on to me by the mother of a friend, who made it herself. It is of a lightweight wool, fully lined and beautifully tailored. The lightweight but lined blue and green jacket is a commercially-made piece which I discovered separately, but is a perfect accompaniment in color, style and era.

With this ensemble or with the skirt suit shown yesterday, an early Sixties cellophane hat would also be a perfect accessory. Nothing looks more like Spring to me, and I think we’re more than ready!

A little heads-up: I’ll be having guests over the next month so, though I will try to post daily, the times may be erratic and I may skip a day or two. But, there’s still lots more in the archives, not to mention possible new evidence, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

UNIQUE AND NON-TRADITIONAL MID-CENTURY 2-PIECE COCKTAIL DRESS

Late 1950’s – early 1960’s cocktail/dinner 2-piece dress in a surprising cadet blue color. How could I not have collected this one? It’s not eccentric at all, but I love the original and surprising vibe when a black frock would have been expected. In a substantial knit fabric and with a flattering pencil/wiggle cut that accentuates the figure but is also very “proper”. It ticks all the boxes for lower to mid-priced elegance. No jewelry needed excepting some stud earrings and perhaps a cocktail ring.

Many well-dressed women during the Kennedy Era could have worn this ensemble with confidence. While not a garment for those socializing in the “highest circles”, an average gal might have gathered some lingering looks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM