Category Archives: jacket

TRUE VINTAGE SPRING JACKETS & COAT 1940’S – 1980’S

Distinctive tailoring and fabric in ladies’ jackets helps identify their decade in fashion history. Wool jackets with interesting buttons and lots of tailored details were very popular from the late 1930’s into the 1950’s. Not all 1940’s jackets had big, military-style shoulders. The two 1940’s jackets in the first photo are good examples which were both parts of a skirt suit originally. They’d look great with a pair of tailored pants, too. Look at the buttons and pockets that draw attention. Tabs on the cuffs and waistline detail do the same. Both jackets have an easy, flattering fit.

In the 1950’s, jackets became more sporty and body-conscious in many cases. This fitted white leather jacket is a great example. Covered buttons, a wide collar, slash pockets and back vent really draw the eye. It’s sleek and streamlined. The fitting reflects that in the tapered sleeves and fitted waist. Extra room on top which accents she shoulders and bustline gives a bit of an athletic or “va-va-voom” figure enhancement. Love it!

The bright red all-weather textured polyester coat from the 1970’s has many mid-century style features. The stand-out collar design with extended lapels is a “1970’s does 1940’s” style which was very popular in the early Seventies. The fitted Princess cut also harks back to the 1940’s and 1950’s, up through the early 1960’s because it is very classic. Knee-length hemlines on coats reflected the hemlines on skirts and dresses, so were shorter during WWII and the mini-skirt era between the early ’60’s and early ’70’s.

The tan-color 1980’s jacket is also made of leather. It’s a casual style that is more international and eccentric but has a bomber jacket silhouette paired with a 1940’s peplum waist that goes with some types of skirts and pants. Lots of gathers on the shoulders and at the waist give it a roomy fit that lets you wear a sweater underneath if you want to.

Before heading into a chronology of true vintage Spring day dresses, we’ll take a Snowbird vacation tomorrow. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Ladies’ Sweaters 1940’s – 1970’s

Just a few examples of the many styles and varieties in my archives, but this assortment is a good beginning. The most classic, and probably the most numerous of my discoveries, have been cardigans. Finely made cashmere sweaters, like my mother’s yellow one with appliqued flowers, were a staple for the college coed in the late 1930’s to 1940’s. Plain styles were often worn in reverse, with the buttons in back. Up through the 1950’s to the early 1960’s beaded and embroidered cardigans were hugely popular and the designs were endless. Most were commercially-made, many of the best ones in British Hong Kong, but some women decorated theirs at home. My mother bought this yellow sweater jacket by Banff in the early 1960’s.

Of course, there were v-neck, crew neck, and collared sweaters in all sorts of variety. Most were nice, but casual styles made to wear with skirts and, later, with slacks. Wool sweaters provided the most warmth for colder months and, until Orlon became available, almost all sweaters were made of wool. Synthetics were really given a boost during WWII because of the government’s requisitioning of wool for military uniforms.

The turtleneck that we love now didn’t seem to show up too much in everyone’s closets until the early 1960’s. Until then, it was a little more avant guarde or unconventional for the average gal though they were on the scene from the 1920’s. Always a sportswear item, especially from the time women began to dress more casually in the 1940’s, women’s sweaters became less dressy. We’d begin to see themed sweaters like this Las Vegas souvenir from the 1970’s or with prominent monograms, mostly in the ’50’s. Of course, many mid-century women knitted and crocheted tons of styles at home, from super-casual to evening styles.

True vintage sweaters from before the 1970’s when acrylic yarn took over are a rare and fabulous find. Moth damage, pills and snags usually took most of them out of circulation. Though I have many, it’s only possible to show sample at one time. A few ladies’ casual Spring jackets tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE MEN’S SWEATERS, WOOL SHIRT AND 2 JACKETS FROM THE 1960’S AND 1970’S

Here are a few of the iconic everyday styles seen frequently in menswear from the early 1960’s until the mid 1970’s. The 1970’s styles, shown in the center panel, are still probably in production. Cardigans and pullovers have been popular for men at least since the 1940’s. The styles produced in the 1940’s and 1950’s were most interesting, with colorful knitted-in patterns and leather inserts.

In the top panel, first shown is a woolen knit cardigan with embossed metallic buttons. It’s an imported European style. Second is a wool shirt, which has been a cold-weather casual staple for men for decades. The Henley neckline closure makes this one unique. After that, an iconic suede leather jacket with sweater-knit collar and sleeves. I have several of these in the archives, in different earth-tone colors. They are beautiful pieces which have, surprisingly, survived the decades in excellent condition. Next are 2 plain, standard cardigans which have been a part of almost every older man’s wardrobe (often with leather elbow patches) and younger mens’, too, especially when they have been designed as golf sweaters. The first, with patch pockets, is made of wool and is older – probably 1960’s. The second, in burgundy, is acrylic knit as is the light blue Izod V-neck. Standard 1970’s construction and fabric.

Finally, I picked this iconic Ted Williams hunting jacket to include in the post. Ted Williams was a famous baseball player and lent his name to this jacket sold by Sears & Roebuck in the early 1960’s. The label tells the marketing story and you can see the heavy knitted neckline. Cuffs are made of the same material. In front, the jacket zips and has standard-looking pockets. I have shown the back view because the rear “game pocket” is most visible. It extends across the lower back and opens with a zipper on both sides.

This find was an education for me, as I’d never heard of Ted Williams or seen this type of jacket before. What great clues in any investigation! Women’s styles tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S CUSTOM-TAILORED 2-PIECE DRESS, COORDINATING JACKET AND HATS!

Here’s another 3-season dress with known history. That’s always SO wonderful. It was passed on to me by the mother of a friend, who made it herself. It is of a lightweight wool, fully lined and beautifully tailored. The lightweight but lined blue and green jacket is a commercially-made piece which I discovered separately, but is a perfect accompaniment in color, style and era.

With this ensemble or with the skirt suit shown yesterday, an early Sixties cellophane hat would also be a perfect accessory. Nothing looks more like Spring to me, and I think we’re more than ready!

A little heads-up: I’ll be having guests over the next month so, though I will try to post daily, the times may be erratic and I may skip a day or two. But, there’s still lots more in the archives, not to mention possible new evidence, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL KENNEDY ERA SKIRT SUIT IN BOUCLE’ WOOL

It’s not designer, but still worthy of any gal who loved Jacqueline Kennedy’s elegant fashion style. A straight below-the-kneecap skirt and boxy short jacket say early 1960’s and Coco Chanel-style in a big way. You can’t see the loopy boucle’ weave in this photo. It was very popular in the early Sixties – I’ve found several, all in pastel colors.

The tailoring is remarkably good, too. In this case, you can see the fabric-covered buttons down the front and at each cuff. The little slash pockets that are finished off with binding are meant to be ornamental and add a lot to the design, even if they aren’t practical. Bracelet-length sleeves let you show off a charm bracelet, pretty watch or any other statement piece. Even a slim gold bracelet of fine quality is a statement piece, and perfect with an outfit of this kind.

One of the unique features of these suits is how the necklines are treated. I have a pink example with a rounded Peter Pan style collar. A yellow one I’ve found has a crew-style neckline with a slim mink collar. This example has an attached piece that buttons in place and forms the matching blue neckline filler. The wool fabric is perfect for late Winter and early Spring. More pastel wool tomorrow, and hats! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE COAT, FROM THE LATE 1950’S TO 1960’S. LET’S LIGHTEN UP A LITTLE!

For the milder climes, a car coat. This time it’s suede instead of wool, but still with the dressy mink collar and showy buttons. As I’ll show later, leather jackets for women, from Western-wear to dressy styles, were a big thing in the early to mid-Sixties, worn by more and more middle-income women. Usually of a tailored, but casual style and gradually dropping the fur excepting for the hoods of parkas and up-market leather coats and ski jackets.

I’ll continue to focus on seasonal items during this shift from Autumn to Winter and with a nod to the Holidays and vacations. Excepting in the news, nothing controversial happening here but intrigues have a way of appearing spontaneously. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Okay, Okay. It’s cold now! Time to get out my Pretty Wool Capes

It’s still Fall, guys, but a skiff of snow on my car this morning brought me back to reality. Although we’ll have more warmish days, it’s time to get out some of the woolies. I’m not ready, yet, to throw on one of my wonderful wool coats but capes are more versatile at in-between times. Here are two of my mid-century favorites.

This beautiful red one is tailored and perfect for smart casual to business styles. It is lined and detailed like a good coat would be. Made in the decade from 1955 to 1965. The classic style makes it difficult to pinpoint a year, but there are always clues. A brand label really helps. Buttons and zippers can tell a story. If you study costume design or are a super sleuth the fabric, certain tailoring details or photos of trends published in newspapers and magazines can narrow the window to a more specific time frame. The next cute and unusual cape is a perfect example.

A reversible garment is so much fun! The second cape is much more casual and in a Boho style. It’s a nice, substantial wool but has no lining or pockets. The only complications to the design are the pattern woven into the fabric and the little tufted string tie at the neckline. It’s also from the same decade as the red cape but I can narrow the time period closely because of the color clue. There were one or two years from 1962 – 1964 when the blue and green color combo went viral. It was on everything from clothing to housewares and graphic design. Styles were also loosening up around then, with Mod edging in on classic and traditional. I’ll bet that this cape was made and sold during those 3 years, possibly exactly 1963.

So, these will keep me warm and the freezing temps are likely to minimize the risks of moth damage. However, it’s always a good idea to protect your treasured woolen garments since those moths can sometimes surprise you. I have more capes to show you, but that may come later in the year or even next year since we’ll be turning the New Year’s page before we know it. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S JACKET AND SKIRT

I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.

Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit.  The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.

The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage.  When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago.  The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS – STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940’S / 1950’S

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS - STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940'S / 1950'S

Daytime into evening glamour for some well-dressed women back in the day.  I just love the details and distinctive style of these.

Unmistakably true vintage, they’re extremely versatile today when we might wear them with anything from jeans to evening clothing.  And, of course, a perfect final touch to any period costume.

Naturally, they’re beautifully finished inside, with the original owner’s initials sewn to the lining.  The little pockets on the front of the cape are an interesting feature – and that BIG button closure – AND the huge cuffs on the ’40’s jacket – LOVE!

Since supporting the current market for new furs is a major no-no for anyone who values animal rights, as I do, I’m grateful for the excellent imitation furs that are being made now and that the sales of new real furs seem to be diminishing – at least in the U.S.  I hope that’s true.

It’s OK to enjoy these pretty designs from a half-century ago for their place in fashion history and beautiful craftsmanship.  I never get tired of wondering and imagining about the origins and histories of the lovely garments I find, and how to wear them now . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM