Category Archives: ’20’s

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY DOES 1920’S SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Sometime during a brief 1920’s style revival in the l960’s – 1980’s this frock was produced. It’s not a style that is flattering to everyone but, of course, Stella can pull it off perfectly. In this pure white, it may have been made as a lower-priced wedding costume alternative by some company that made bridal dresses. While obviously not high end, it’s pretty and flirty.

Love the handkerchief hemline! Can you imagine a gown in this style, made of fine silk and satin with handmade lace? During the Gatsby gilded age brides from wealthy families would have been dressed that way. Today it would make a fun Halloween or theater costume. Dresses that are obviously tied to a theme or era are always interesting whether they are true vintage, retro or modern. Of course, I always sleuth for the original evidence. More coming, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Gallery of True Vintage Lingerie Slips

Here’s a sampling of my dozens of beautiful lingerie slips from several eras. True vintage lingerie is essential to wearing your dresses, blouses and skirts with their best fit and comfort. Slips can be fine cotton, rayon, silk, acetate or nylon. Designs can be highly decorated or very sleek and plain. It pays to have every type you can find in different lengths and colors. Some are so gorgeous they can be worn alone as “slip dresses”.

Matching your undergarments to your dresses in a way that minimizes binding, getting too hot or having some unsightly see-through makes all the difference in the final presentation of your outfits and your enjoyment of wearing them. Usually, you’re the only one who knows how truly beautiful your full or half-slip really is. Sometimes it’s fun to allow just a corner of lace trim to show beneath a hemline or at a neckline. In other words, have fun. Have a beautiful Thanksgiving holiday and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Formal for Holiday Season Gala Nights

Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.

The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.

So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another MUST for a True Vintage Wardrobe – Authentic Costume Jewelry

No matter what else you’re wearing, or even if your jewelry is the only vintage piece in your outfit, it will stand out strongly. That’s especially true of these colorful and unique examples. Though cheap copy-cats are being made now, I still recommend the originals.

Fine true vintage jewelry in gold and silver is always special and wonderful but can be pricey. Costume jewelry is easier to find and softer on the budget. Collect a variety of styles and items – you’ll have something different for every day and just the perfect thing for every outfit.

Of course, it needs care but is exceptionally durable in general. Simple protection from scratches, rough handling and strong UV light for prolonged periods will do the trick. Compact and easy to store, though if you’re a sleuth with an extensive archive the files can become pretty heavy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . More accessories tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN INTERESTING VINTAGE/VINTAGE-STYLE WEDDING/DANCE DRESS

AN INTERESTING VINTAGE/VINTAGE-STYLE WEDDING/DANCE DRESS

This ’20’s – style dress was made in the 1970’s and was probably intended to be a wedding gown.  The design is actually a hybrid ’20’s/’40’s in some ways. As marginal as the 1970’s were with regard to quality fashion (in my opinion), I have found some vintage-inspired garments made during that decade that were pretty cool.

This dress has never been worn – still has a paper inventory tag fastened inside the left sleeve. Also, there are care and content tags, but no maker’s label.

It seems fairly well-made and is an interesting design.  I find it intriguing as a curiosity, mostly, and would put it in the category of the Gunne Sax dresses of that time, many of which were styled after antique fashions.

Was this the remnant of a wedding that never happened, or just dead stock?  I wonder.. . . .  you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS SURPRISE FIND – REEDCRAFT LEATHER PURSE FROM THE 1920’S – 1930’S

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What a rare and wonderful discovery!  In excellent condition – perhaps never used.  Only some minor discolorations from age or storage and almost 100 years old.

These handbags have beautifully finished leather and fun hardware touches.  A tri-color Bakelite or celluloid clasp ornament and even a little coin purse stashed inside.  When you think that this was at the beginning of the Great Depression with war looming in Europe, it puts a different slant on this pretty product.  The company was formed in 1928, just a year before the stock market crash.

Despite it all, people did find ways to enjoy life in the 1930’s – some of the most fun and outrageously glamorous movies were made during that time, some of the most luxurious and over-the-top fashion plus beautiful Art Deco furniture, architecture and ornamentation.

“Pack up your troubles in your old kit bag and smile, smile, smile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..”

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE FUR ACCESSORIES FROM THE ’30’S, ’40’S, ’50’S & ’60’S

TRUE VINTAGE FUR ACCESSORIES FROM THE '30'S, '40'S, '50'S & '60'S

It’s still not too late to glam it up with fabulous fur accessories, especially during the variable March weather . . . . . . . our mothers and grandmothers had to be prepared to look chic no matter what!

Marlene and Celia have been waiting for another chance to get into the picture.  Here you see them modeling a variety of mink accessories, with the exception of the black muff far left, which I believe is of rabbit fur and has a small zipper compartment and the black hat, which is curly lamb.

Whole skinned animals, with heads, feet and tails (and little glass eyes) were popular as stoles in the 1930’s & 1940’s, maybe the ’20’s, too.  Big “Eeew!” factor for a lot of people now.  I’ve already covered the fur issue so, if you love real furs (and animals) stick to 1960’s and before.

There’s a dark brown mink scarf that closes with a big mink-covered button (very elegant) and a blonde mink “dickie” to wear at the neckline under your coat.

The hats are probably the most visible accessory when you’re first seen – these are super-flattering but also will be warm. So, when you’re forced to take to the sidewalks, just remember —- to be well-dressed at all times is a gift to yourself and everyone who sees you.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM