TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S UP-SCALE LBD – SO PRETTY!

“Daring” spaghetti straps, the ubiquitous ’50’s/’60’s grosgrain ribbon bow and a tiered skirt that harks back to the 1940’s plus a solidly early Sixties below-the-knee hemline. Youthful, attractive, classic and conservative at the same time. Looks like this designer was being experimental while styles were shifting. I’d say it was a success!

This is a very well-tailored semi-formal dinner/dance/cocktail frock, probably sold at a department store which carried upscale goods or a smaller women’s boutique. Crepe fabric which drapes beautifully, a well-fitting cut, elegant simplicity with the surprisingly unexpected skirt. A very “modern” design. A first step toward Mod, which wasn’t as avant garde or counter-culture as the styles which followed in the mid to late 1960’s. We’ll keep stepping along the path tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY LITTLE LBD COCKTAIL DESIGN FROM THE 1960’S – 1970’S

In terms of it’s pedigree, this dress has nothing to brag about. In fact, it’s very cheaply made; But, I decided to include it here because of the bodice design. This sheer panel with small decorative embellishments is something that I’ve seen several times on 1940’s and 1950’s styles. It’s an attractive but conservative way of accenting the shoulders and mimicking a strapless effect without any of the architectural challenges (the dreaded wardrobe malfunction).

The prettiest and most interesting version I’ve seen was a 1950’s beige sheath with a asymmetrical bodice. The sheer part had some little flower motifs worked into the fabric at intervals but everything was a beige skin-tone. The wearer certainly didn’t look nude, but the effect was much more subtle and attractive. If I come across the photo in the archives, I will publish it. Back to finer examples of Sixties LBDs tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S KENNEDY ERA COCTAIL PARTY DRESS

Interesting tailoring on this dress. Much more fussy than a true LBD. The lace overlay fabric was commonly used in the early 1960’s but the pouchy drapes attached to the hips almost look like something from the late 1940’s and the pleated bodice looks like many from the early 1950’s. All of this confusion makes a straight-cut sheath style look entirely different and made this frock completely unique.

It seems to me that changes from one decade to the next and significant historical events have often caused interesting and, sometimes, odd shifts in fashion. The early ’60’s also swung back to the New Look nipped waistlines and poufy skirts for a little while. More 1960’s designs on the way – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SPARKLEY 1950’S EARLY 1960’S PARTY DRESS

Nobody who matters will take issue with the fact that this dress is not black. The mauve lurex thread on a black background is gorgeous. Enjoy your martini and party on.

Jacquard fabric with a glossy finish was very popular at this time for special occasion frocks. Nipped waists and full-ish skirts carried on, though the slinky sheath never goes out of style. Demure and more daring aspects of design often appear on the same dress, as seen in the neckline and closely fitted torso here, paired with a skirt that hides the shape of the legs. Fashion that sends two messages, especially for women, always makes social life more complicated but has usually been the direction of women’s clothing style. Maybe we’re starting to get away from that now?

At any rate, hemlines are changing again and the midi will soon be OUT. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S FUR-TRIMMED SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Not a cocktail style, though it belongs in the line-up. This is such a distinctive tailoring style – I’ve got at least 6 garments dating from the 1930’s to Fifties or early Sixties with fur-trimmed sleeves. In the early ’60’s and into the ’70’s the trim also showed up on hems. The same type of glossy jacquard fabric is used here as in the dress shown yesterday, but I suspect that this special-occasion frock was made for a girl or young woman. Maybe for a party, maybe for an “event”. Might even have been home-sewn. Fabric shops used to carry trims of all kinds. This looks like rabbit fur.

My feeling is that this style was really a fad, although it kept cropping up. Popular, in it’s way, but only for a smaller segment of the market. Not the same as fur collars on coats, which has been a standard for many centuries. I suppose that fur has been a trademark of luxury and wealth throughout history. If a designer wanted to create an upscale look, fur trim might be chosen. Thank goodness, now we can have the authentic look without the cruelty.

Tomorrow another garment of this design, in a really impractical example. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – A PERFECT 1980’S DOES 1940’S DAY DRESS

Great “true vintage retro” find! It’s just a perfect go-to-town classic shirtwaist dress for 3 seasons. Elegant in its simplicity. Liz Roberts for Liz Petites was a better mid-priced brand in the Eighties. The dress is well-made and styled. The polyester fabric is a good imitation of the synthetics used in the Forties. I love the knife pleats in the midi skirt.and, of course, modest shoulder pads that are retro-correct but also make the silhouette better on many of us. The print is almost atomic, too, with irregular black shards instead of polka dots. The original belt is missing but, depending on height (I still have to decide), there’s probably excess in the hem that could cover a matching one. You can see that there is an older-style hem allowance – sweet!

So that’s it for my most recent investigation. Tomorrow we’ll return to the mid-century cocktail dress run-down. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A PROPER BLACK TEA OR COCKTAIL DRESS FROM THE POST-WWII ERA

Frilled up a little by the lace inset at the neckline and lace trimming at the hem, this dress would have been accepted at any semi-formal gathering, cocktails or not. Although it’s a little bit “secretary, librarian, school teacher” in it’s modesty, the cap sleeves, peek-a-boo neckline and nipped waistline are a bit flirty. The ever-present black crepe fabric gives it the figure-skimming drape. Elegant, even though it wasn’t the most expensive frock.

Back when dresses were always the expected attire for any gathering that was professional or vaguely formal, this dress was an easy, comfortable design to meet the need. Styles were loosening up a little, though structure was still important and tailoring very elevated. In the 1950’s things changed hugely in Western society and, of course, in fashion. I’ll be investigating during the next few days but we’ll continue the cocktail fashion timeline next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Oops – HERE’S ANOTHER 1930’S PARTY FROCK!

Several elements here from the decade between the two World Wars. Drapey rayon fabric, geometric beading decoration a la’ art deco and a dropped waist/peplum effect, a la; the 1920’s and the early 1940’s. The length also doesn’t know exactly where and when it is – looks pretty short on a tall gal like Stella but would be midi-length on a woman of short stature, or even medium height at that time when average height was shorter than it is today.

As “upscale” as this looks, it was apparently a massed-produced design. That makes it a little easier to understand why the styling was as confused as the times. Marketing always follows social trends. Think about it; we were still recovering from WW1, Prohibition was effecting the economy and the culture, The Depression was strangling almost everybody, war was fomenting in Europe and it was looking like WW2 might happen any day.

Yes, it’s a pretty and fun dress but the historical and cultural overtones are even more fascinating. Just another day in the life of a true vintage sleuth. We ARE going to cross the Post-war border between the 1940’s and the 1950’s by early next week. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM