Category Archives: war-time

Another 1940’s Gown, this time in Holiday Red

What beautiful fabric! It is substantial but soft and with tiny machine-embroidered diamond shapes all over, which was apparently a “thing” in some Forties material. This might have been a way of making up for the absence of natural fabrics like silk and many of the notions used to decorate clothing before and after WWII.

The style is very simple and I think, like the dress shown yesterday, that it was custom-made. The pattern wouldn’t have been difficult for a home-based seamstress. The neckline in back is a bit lower, but nothing dramatic. The most difficult aspect of the construction is the piecing below the waist and that’s still no big deal. What I like most about it is that it’s just very pretty and so festive and Christmas-y in that fantastic glossy red. I would have collected it for the yards of gorgeous fabric alone! More of that coming – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST OPENED ANOTHER ARCHIVE OF TRUE VINTAGE LBDs

Let’s start with a velveteen pencil dress and coordinating handbag from the 1940’s. True Forties styling with the pencil cut and skinny sleeves with zippers at the wrists. The dress zips down the back rather than at the side, which began to be seen in the Forties. This dress was probably purchased at retail unless made by an expert tailor. It’s stylish and sophisticated but is frugal with the use of fabric so probably made during wartime.

Other than the wrist zippers, which are almost a necessity with these kinds of sleeves, and the piping finish on sleeves, neckline and waist there are no other embellishments. Piping done this well is not an easy task. In fact, the piping may have saved fabric that otherwise would have been used in hems or facing. Many purses, like the one above, were made of fabric during WWII instead of leather. 1940’s clothing and accessories, especially women’s designs, were very creative. Women and clothing companies came up with lovely fashions while coping with rationing and a limited economy. While not formal, a garment like this would have been appropriate for any dressy event from dinner to cocktails.

Stay tuned for more frocks in this category, from the mid-century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

Blog: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home-Sewn 1940’s Wartime Party Dress

A simple frock, probably made while times were lean and rationing had been imposed on the markets. The fabric is heavy – almost like taffeta but not that real deal. Probably some kind of rayon or acetate. The little splurge is the velveteen neckline, but during WWII any dress like this for an average gal was probably a splurge.

Even on a garment this modest, I love to discover the tailoring features that make it unique. In addition to the neckline trim, notice the little fold-overs that accent the shoulders. Shaping makes the bodice and waist trim and produces the full circle skirt. A deep hem allowance is also a luxury on a dress like this since it adds the option of adding length, adds a little weight to help the skirt sway and just makes the dress look like a more expensive garment.

I think it was made for a teen or a very tiny woman, but who knows the real story. Might even have been a Prom dress – good style for Swing dancing ad Jitterbug. What a fun find! Stay tuned for more knee length and midi cocktail frocks as well as full length gowns . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S – ’50’S SEMI-FORMAL FROCK WHICH COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN FOR A BRIDE

Such an interesting frock. Midi length on Stella, but she’s tall so it could have been tea or floor length on a woman of short stature. I couldn’t decide whether this dress was tailor-made or purchased at retail, but I could find no labels. I suspect that it was custom-made for a cool-weather wedding and the style really makes me think of some Wartime or Post-war bridal dresses I’ve discovered. Could also have been designed for some other special event . . . . .

Pretty mid-weight textured but glossy fabric which may be synthetic or a blend. Unusual long sleeves; but the best thing about this style is the collar. Each layer is carefully supported around the edge with wire so that it can be shaped by hand. I’ve very rarely seen this and it helped me to date the garment. It came from Australia so I may notice a British influence(?).

More semi-formal and long dresses coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Hats: Another Stand-out Accessory That Belongs in Every True Vintage Wardrobe

In my book, the 1940’s through the 1960’s was the best era for ladies’ hats in the U.S. unless you’re into antiquities. Yes, every decade has had some great ones but most beautiful hats that are truly wearable come from the Mid-century. Here are some iconic examples from each of those decades: a Forties picture hat, Fifties toque & pillbox with veil and Sixties pastel cellophane/raffia hats.

Mainstream women from all three of these decades wore hats frequently, if not daily. (Classic films and old magazines are good documentation of this.) So, obviously, they were sold in every store which carried ladies’ fashions and most were affordable. Easy to wear, flattering and very collectable, so go for it. . . . . . and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S JACKET AND SKIRT

I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.

Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit.  The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.

The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage.  When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago.  The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM