Category Archives: needle-work

GORGEOUS CUSTOM-MADE POST-WAR FORMAL GOWN IN SUMPTUOUS BLACK RAYON VELVET

Although very similar, I might place this dress as having been made a little earlier than the one shown yesterday – looks late 1940’s to me.  It might or might not have been worn with a crinoline underneath.  Like the other, it’s completely hand-made and this one has the tailor’s label sewn into the neckline.

One of the best things about this gown is the fabric – a plush, heavy velvet that feels like old rayon.  Love the sweetheart neckline and off-the-shoulder sleeves that, to my taste, are done a bit more artfully than those on yesterday’s dress.  I think it’s mostly a style change that took place over a couple of years around the turn of the ’40’s to ’50’s decade.

Anyway, who wouldn’t love it!  I so wonder what events these dresses were made for and where they went.  That part of the mystery is as yet unsolved . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

 

 

ANOTHER CACHE OF WONDERFUL MID-CENTURY HANDBAGS – UNUSUAL FINDS

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Although the purse in the top left corner is similar to others that I’ve come up with recently, I’m glad to have it in a less-often-found silver fabric.  The others are worth telling you about one at a time.  Let’s start with the white beaded bag on top:

a very lovely little convertible clutch bag that can go from dressy day to summer evening and also would stand out as part of a bridal ensemble.

Just to the right of it is a fabric coin or lipstick purse made in Italy.  Though it is just a purse accessory, the black satin and art print on front, as well as the filigree hardware make it a special keeper.  Italian-made purses and shoes from the Fifties and Sixties were of the highest quality and design and are to die for.

At the bottom is a pretty little brocade purse that could be an accessory but is meant to stand on its own, when only the barest essentials are necessary.  It’s very tiny, but unsnaps again to allow room for just a little more than the coin purse alone.  Although you probably can’t read it, in the corner to the left of the top snap is embossed in gold script “B. Dainty”.  Sweet!

Finally, the duchess of the lot is a fully-beaded clutch with a zipper top and silk lining.  Of the finest materials and displaying the most hand-done workmanship, it’s probably the oldest.

Although I’ve been happy to discover so many evening bags recently, especially with thoughts of this year’s holiday season beginning to creep into mind, I most love the special pieces like these – makes the day’s adventure really fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE DRESSES! 2: CUSTOM-TAILORED MID-CENTURY SLINKY SHEATH

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This one’s a sexy day dress with ruching at the waistline to give it a bit of curvy shape, while still staying very proper.  Love the abstract atomic print in subtle shades that could go to work, or dinner, or . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Hand-tailored frocks are so much fun to discover because they always tell a story about the designer.  This style is so versatile – I’ll enjoy it, too.  More on the way . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HEADING FURTHER BACK IN TIME – A HAND-TAILORED FLORAL FROCK WITH A FULL CIRCLE SKIRT

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In a ’50’s to early ’60’s style, but with mid-1960’s-type fabric this dress illustrates the creative power that home-sewers in the mid-century had over their wardrobes.  The size, style and fabric were completely at their discretion and genre’s could be combined in any way.

This example was made for a teen or a petite woman (the photo is somewhat foreshortened, too, so it’s not quite as short-waisted as it looks), probably as a dressy day or party dress.  It’s a simple style in cotton blend with a zip back and elasticized sleeves but shows evidence of extra care and skill in the insertion of piping detail at the waist and flounce on the skirt.  There are also strap-keepers sewn in at the shoulders and some seams that were done by hand.

What a fun little mystery-history to unravel!  More back to the future on the way . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

TRUE VINTAGE MOD FLOWER-POWER LATE 1960’S MINI-DRESS

TRUE VINTAGE MOD FLOWER-POWER LATE 1960'S MINI-DRESS

This little dress is so cool – straight out of the late sixties.  It was tailor-made in a fabric that was really popular then – kind of loose-woven like hop sacking used to be.  That’s what it was called, though it wasn’t really sacking material (from back when they used to make food sacks out of cloth).

It has a Peter Pan collar and zips up the back.  The sleeves are made from a sheer material that is printed to match the heavier fabric of the dress.  Cute!

When I find something like this that is SO characteristic of its particular time and even tells a story about who made it it’s almost like being transported!  Beam me up . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST UNEARTHED THESE -TRUE VINTAGE FABRIC HANDBAGS

IMG_3291Unusual and cute – worth collecting.  It’s great to find bags this old that have survived in such wonderful condition!  The hardware is really shiny and bright but, of course, reflects shadows.  The purse on left was handmade with a needlepoint cover, mounted on purchased hardware.  Up through the 1960’s, many women made purses this way because the kits were easy to buy and a perfect way to make a bag that exactly matches an outfit – especially when so many women were home-sewing their wardrobes.  I’ve seen them in all styles, including late mid-century macrame’.

The handbag on right is a commercially-made style by the CARA brand-name.  Pretty standard on the inside with a satiny rayon liner and zipper compartment – beyond the excellent condition, the deciding factor for me was the hardware design.  Isn’t that a lovely infinity coil along the top?

Still good for many years of service, and wonderful along with just the right outfit.  I’ll have fun with these – can never have too much of that . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MOD MAD MEN TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESS WITH MATCHING JACKET

MOD 1960'S DRESS WITH MATCHING JACKET

This outfit was custom tailored in the mid-1960’s.  Bell sleeves and easy fit. The fabric is a swirly paisley print in aqua tones and it includes the  addition of a matching jacket to create an ensemble.

So many dresses in the ’50’s and ’60’s were made with matching jackets and even matching accessories.  Though this is a fairly casual dress, it follows that lady-like trend and seems to teeter on the edge of the fashion divide between the rather prissy Fifties and early Sixties and the Mod and wild times just after.  Looks like the dressmaker originally intended to make a sleeveless frock, then changed her mind.   As it is, we’ve got a day dress that Twiggy would look just fab in, photographed on some 1965 magazine cover.

What a luxury to have your own dressmaker to custom-tailor your wardrobe! So many women did.  Most neighborhoods in the city had a tailor’s shop where this kind of work was done.  In towns and villages there was usually a woman nearby who did dressmaking in her  own home.  And, of course, many women were still doing their own home sewing then.

Maybe I’ll take the sleeves off some time and wear this dress with the jacket – but, no . . . . love the dress just as it is.  I’ll check out the jacket with my selection of skirts  . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

A FUN 1960’S FIND TODAY

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Not a big day on the treasure hunt, but still a time for FUN.  This custom-tailored Sixties blouse is all that these separates used to be!

Made from textured poly flower-power print fabric in the blue-green color combo that was really popular for a while during that decade.  It has a scalloped hem in front (look carefully and you can see) and an almost full-length metal zipper in back.

Although a lot of the mid-century garments are fairly plain in their design and, especially some that were made at home – there are almost always little design touches or tailoring details that betray their well-bred and elegant background.  Most clothing made during this time still reflected the superior tailoring that was the norm in previous decades.

So, we see a bit of this evidence in the example of this blouse.  Sometimes (often) I have to give respect to the simplest true vintage clothing because of the care with which it was constructed.  Wonder what I’ll find the next time I go hunting . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER FABULOUS TRUE VINTAGE TREASURE – IN CLASSIC BLACK

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So wonderful!!!  Another mid-century pencil skirt – as I’ve said, you can’t have too many. As usual, this one fits perfectly and has the expected tailoring details of a well-made garment.  Ignore the camera spots – it’s beautiful.

Love unraveling the stories of every find; this one was custom-tailored of a soft wool, with acetate liner in the seat.  Tailors used to do this with wool skirts to prevent stretching of the fabric from sitting.  I love the well-constructed waistband and side closure plus the fantastic fit.

Easy to dress up or down.  A basic black piece like this is always chic and when the quality is high plus a perfect fit, that’s what makes the difference between attractive and elegant – between fashionable and chic – between nice-looking and truly well-dressed.  Our grandmothers knew that, and most European women haven’t forgotten.

Would go nicely with the cocktail sweater I found and showed you a few days ago.  I plan to wear it with vintage jackets, blouses and sweaters.  I’ve discovered a trove of skirts lately – more to come . .. . . . . . . . . . . ..  . .. .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FUN FIFTIES FROCK – STRAPLESS CUSTOM-TAILORED SUMMER DRESS

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Pretty easy-wear polished cotton sundress from the early to mid-1950’s, in the New Look style.  Bit of an atomic thing going on with the applique’ design.  Somebody had a lot of fun with this one!

Can’t wait to see it on Stella – it’s a real knockout on a gal with an hourglass figure. Marilyn would have loved it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM