Category Archives: cocktails

TRUE VINTAGE RAYON SHEATH – PURE 1930’S DECO STYLE

Sleek and streamlined with a back neckline button closure. Overall gold-tone metal studs. Made of a heavy knit synthetic fabric that still drapes well despite it’s weight. A very business-like dress that would also go to a cocktail party with supreme confidence. This dress has PRESENCE. Worthy of any Hollywood actress of that time – looks like Joan Crawford to me. So completely different from the 1930’s frock in yesterday’s post.

Tomorrow we’ll be edging from the late 1940’s into the early 1950’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . By the way, I apologize for the photos that aren’t aligned to vertical. For some reason neither WordPress or my computer will allow me to edit this or I simply don’t know how.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THE “LBD” FROM THE 1920’S AND 1930’S

These two are certainly not designs by Coco Chanel, who came up with the Little Black Dress in 1926, but they still might have been seen at a cocktail party. They’re both oh-so-proper in spite of the loosening restrictions on women’s dress that were happening after the Edwardian 1910’s. The dress on the left, from the Thirties, is not terribly interesting to me but the bodice has those Deco-style pleats in the sheer lace panel that elevate the whole design. It was so amazing to discover it with the original floral ornament in front.

The midi-tea length lace dress from the 1920’s is pretty and would be very swishy over a rayon slip worn underneath. It was discovered in an antique wardrobe at a farm sale. The dropped waist is iconic. This frock was meant for a dressy special occasion rather than a night dancing the Charleston in a speakeasy.

How amazing it was discovering these pieces in such wonderful condition after almost 100 years! Most textile clues don’t last as well over so many decades but there are more to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR 1940’S BEADED COCKTAIL DRESS

During a South American investigation, this frock was discovered in the beautiful and historic city of Montevideo, Uruguay. During WW 2, well-to-do Uruguayan women still had beautiful dresses made for them and did some trade in clothing and accessories from France. This dress has the label of a small tailoring shop, is exquisitely made by hand and was obviously owned by a woman from the upper class who would wear it to dinner or any semi-formal festive gathering.

Style-wise, the augmented shoulders, funky ruching on the hips and sleeves plus the midi hem point directly to the late 1940’s. Heavy decoration with beads and sequins is all done by hand, as is the finishing. Look at all the small buttons in back, each with it’s own fabric loop closure. Stay tuned for more from the 1940’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FUN TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S POST-WAR NIGHTCLUB DANCE DRESS

I’m back in black today, but more color coming. I really loved discovering this frock in Texas. Sold by an upscale privately-owned clothing company that had it’s own label. The trim is black velvet tube ribbon and the skirt is made for swingin’ and swayin’. Perfect for wearing to any dance hall or vibrant party, and we know that Texans love to party!

It’s got ruching on the sleeves, which was a favorite ’40’s tailoring feature. Nipped waist and wide skirt plus a midi hem puts in firmly in the post-war time frame. So much fun to discover – a fun dress from a very jubilant time in history. More Forties fashion coming, but dressing it up with an international twist. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE ’50’S – EARLY ’60’S COCKTAIL BLOUSE FROM DOWN UNDER

What a wonderful, unique and chic mid-century piece! Discovered during an investigation in Australia, this pretty top made in Britain (or by a British company) is made from semi-sheer fabric that has a woven-in contrasting pattern. It buttons up the back and has the distinctive feature of 3/4 length sleeves with fur cuffs. Great fit and gorgeous over a black skirt or dressy pants. Casual, but elegant.

Women’s semi-formal clothes were especially fabulous between the 1920’s and 1960’s. Although many dresses, skirts and blouses had lovely decoration in the years before, styles were too buttoned-up for my taste. After the 1960’s quality, creativity and elegance really seemed to take a dive. Give me styles from the Prohibition speakeasys, film noir and revolutionary Sixties any day. The Seventies had too much polyester, the Eighties had some great Forties retro and avante guarde New Wave but were overall too gaudy and the Nineties had an overabundance of black. Of course, great pieces were made during all these decades but seemed to be the exception. Just my opinion – you decide.

Thank goodness that modern faux fur and animal skin alternatives have become almost indistinguishable from real ones which, in my opinion, are an abomination. This also includes silk, tortoise shell, horn, coral, pearls and ivory. True vintage pieces made from these materials decades ago are an important part of fashion history and can be fun to collect and wear but I ask my viewers NEVER to support the market for these products by buying modern items made from them. This is how we can block the profit from breeding and slaughtering these wonderful creatures and stop it. If you are looking for clothing and accessories made from any of these, check at a secondhand thrift or antique store. Thank you and stay tuned for that 1940’s series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT MOD TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S LBD

From the early to mid-1960’s, a sleek, sleeveless classic sheath style cocktail dress with a boat neckline, which I love. It’s knee to bottom-of-knee length, which is a very flattering hemline on most women and was common at that time right before almost everything had an above-the-knee or mini length. It’s so hard to get good detail on black clothing in photos, but this one is easier because the only decoration is a medium-width band of black beading at the waistline. Very well-tailored in a light-medium weight knit fabric with a very nice drape. This one factor takes it over the line from a Summer dress to one for Fall. Good quality, good fit – the signature features of well-made true vintage clothing.

I have more examples in the files of 1960’s LBDs but, in my images file, I ran across a large number of dresses of this type from the 1940’s. I’ll probably break the timeline to put these in the next posts before resuming to LBD’s from the more recent decades. I am traveling back to Headquarters as of tomorrow, so there may be a few days pause while I reorganize. Won’t be long so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1950’S – EARLY 1960’S BEADED TOPS GO ELEGANT TO DRESS-UP

Here are two examples of the most iconic cocktail fashions of this era, which could be dressed down for a home-based cocktail party or dressed up with a well-styled skirt for a more formal type of party or event. The best were made in British Hong Kong – sweaters were made of fine lambswool or cashmere and shell blouses of rayon or silk. They would always be lined and have tiny sewn-in labels showing the bust measurement. Finer pieces had cloth labels from fine tailoring shops. These two are beautiful, but not the nicest I have discovered.

Although many tops similar to this were made in the ’80’s and ’90’s when retro “vintage” fashions became really hot, I never saw any as well-made as these are. There was a great variety of designs and types of beads; sequins, seed beads, jewels and, ribbon were all used. Like these, most were monochromatic but there were some with contrasting designs. Usually, the design was also on the back side and required some care when worn but that was not considered to be a hardship for women in the 1900’s.

Tomorrow I’ll start showing some dresses. This is a category of true vintage fashion that is a very big one! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

START OF A SERIES: TRUE VINTAGE PIECES FOR COOL, DRESSY EVENINGS

We’re now heading into the season for indoor parties, special occasions and events after the long, lovely summer; Cocktail parties, dinners, dances, recitals, holiday galas – you name it. I’ll be starting a series of posts of pretty, dressy and semi-formal garments in my collection from the 1950’s – 1990’s which will take us into the Fall and even Winter. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EXCITING “NEW” TRUE VINTAGE HANDBAG FINDS!

Let’s start with a deja’ vu item (for me) – I call it this because I discovered a nearly identical one and posted it just two weeks ago! However, the exciting thing is the different clues involved in their stories. Always SO interesting! Plus, one new item which is a rare find and always makes me do an extra happy dance. . . . . . . .. . . . . ..

Oh, Ho hum you may say. Another black cocktail clutch. Yes, I have many of these in my case archives (and closet), but each one is unique in some way. The fun thing about this one is the similarities to the other one recently found; 1. Both are rectangular and designed to be hand-held. 2. Both are made of black rayon satin. 3. Both have hand-done beading on the front AND back. 4. Both have an additional pocket (or two) inside. 5. Both are from the mid-century, probably post-WWII.

HOWEVER, the one found two weeks ago is more finely made. It was constructed in Hong Kong (while it was still British Hong Kong) while this one above was probably made in North America but is an iconic brand name (Soure’). The first found has more elaborate beading on the front. It is a sac design with no stiffening and simply folds over to close, while this one has stiffening between the layers, probably some form of cardboard, and a metal snap closure (more common and less elegant). These clues lead me to decide that the first find is 10 – 20 years older even though they are so similar. Investigations are so fun! You can check out the previous post and see what I mean.

The final item, just found, is the one that really gives me happy feet – see the little coin purse? I LOVE FINDING THESE!!!!! Not too many of them exist anymore and they are SO convenient and iconic inside a true vintage handbag. This one, also, is navy blue rather than black. It will definitely have a home in one of my purses at Headquarters.

OK, that’s the first of my recent deja’ vu finds, but there is another one which I will put in a separate post because it is in a different category – Men’s true vintage accessories! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM