Category Archives: classic

Okay, Okay. It’s cold now! Time to get out my Pretty Wool Capes

It’s still Fall, guys, but a skiff of snow on my car this morning brought me back to reality. Although we’ll have more warmish days, it’s time to get out some of the woolies. I’m not ready, yet, to throw on one of my wonderful wool coats but capes are more versatile at in-between times. Here are two of my mid-century favorites.

This beautiful red one is tailored and perfect for smart casual to business styles. It is lined and detailed like a good coat would be. Made in the decade from 1955 to 1965. The classic style makes it difficult to pinpoint a year, but there are always clues. A brand label really helps. Buttons and zippers can tell a story. If you study costume design or are a super sleuth the fabric, certain tailoring details or photos of trends published in newspapers and magazines can narrow the window to a more specific time frame. The next cute and unusual cape is a perfect example.

A reversible garment is so much fun! The second cape is much more casual and in a Boho style. It’s a nice, substantial wool but has no lining or pockets. The only complications to the design are the pattern woven into the fabric and the little tufted string tie at the neckline. It’s also from the same decade as the red cape but I can narrow the time period closely because of the color clue. There were one or two years from 1962 – 1964 when the blue and green color combo went viral. It was on everything from clothing to housewares and graphic design. Styles were also loosening up around then, with Mod edging in on classic and traditional. I’ll bet that this cape was made and sold during those 3 years, possibly exactly 1963.

So, these will keep me warm and the freezing temps are likely to minimize the risks of moth damage. However, it’s always a good idea to protect your treasured woolen garments since those moths can sometimes surprise you. I have more capes to show you, but that may come later in the year or even next year since we’ll be turning the New Year’s page before we know it. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS NEW FIND: EARLY 1960’S SEMI-FORMAL POUF DRESS

Perfect example of a Kennedy Era party dress, bought off the rack back in the day. It’s full of clues in the fabrics and construction. Lace overlay fabric which was very popular at that time, 3-layer skirt with a netting crinoline in the middle, AFLCIO Union Workers label, vintage metal zipper with a hook and eye at the neckline and at the waist, and hanging loops sewn in at the shoulder. These dresses are exceptionally well-made although they were reasonably priced. Although it’s a little short on Stella, it fits her pretty well.

I’m always thrilled to find one and each example has some unique features. In this case, the scarf attached at the right shoulder which drapes across the front neckline is a novel addition. It’s even got a detachable rhinestone brooch on the opposite shoulder, suggesting that there might be other ways to style the scarf. As worn above, it makes a tail over the left shoulder, which was a popular design element at that time and also in decades before. In any case, I’ve never seen one exactly like this. Just goes to prove that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Hats: Another Stand-out Accessory That Belongs in Every True Vintage Wardrobe

In my book, the 1940’s through the 1960’s was the best era for ladies’ hats in the U.S. unless you’re into antiquities. Yes, every decade has had some great ones but most beautiful hats that are truly wearable come from the Mid-century. Here are some iconic examples from each of those decades: a Forties picture hat, Fifties toque & pillbox with veil and Sixties pastel cellophane/raffia hats.

Mainstream women from all three of these decades wore hats frequently, if not daily. (Classic films and old magazines are good documentation of this.) So, obviously, they were sold in every store which carried ladies’ fashions and most were affordable. Easy to wear, flattering and very collectable, so go for it. . . . . . and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another MUST for a True Vintage Wardrobe – Authentic Costume Jewelry

No matter what else you’re wearing, or even if your jewelry is the only vintage piece in your outfit, it will stand out strongly. That’s especially true of these colorful and unique examples. Though cheap copy-cats are being made now, I still recommend the originals.

Fine true vintage jewelry in gold and silver is always special and wonderful but can be pricey. Costume jewelry is easier to find and softer on the budget. Collect a variety of styles and items – you’ll have something different for every day and just the perfect thing for every outfit.

Of course, it needs care but is exceptionally durable in general. Simple protection from scratches, rough handling and strong UV light for prolonged periods will do the trick. Compact and easy to store, though if you’re a sleuth with an extensive archive the files can become pretty heavy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . More accessories tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

20 YEARS BEFORE NEW WAVE, ELECTRIC BLUE STILETTO HEELS FROM THE EARLY 1960’S

Slightly more extreme silhouette, I’d say that these heels are a few years younger than the pink shoes from yesterday. The metallic blue color is very Las Vegas. They look like patent leather and you might expect that because of their age but I believe that they are some type of synthetic. The brand name was probably printed on the insole but has worn away so completely that I can’t depend on it to help me out. Soles are also a synthetic. Very durable, but not a mark of higher quality. These babies were definitely mid-priced but good to go for a long time.

They’re not as tiny as yesterday’s pink pumps and I can wear them! Great find because I have a sateen semi-formal cocktail dress in the same blue color from the same era. That’s one of the most fun things about sleuthing investigations – finding the clues that fit together. Solves the mystery for that outfit! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Retro 1930’s Frock that I couldn’t pass up . . . . .

When I spied this dress I was immediately aware of the loyalty to 1930’s style in the fabric and design. Though it’s not true vintage, it was worth collecting. Love the sheer material, the drape and hemline. And, IT FITS ME! Will be seen on the street next summer. The purge does continue. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM