BACK TO LONG DRESSES FOR WINTER HOLIDAY PARTIES. LET’S START WITH A 1930’S RETRO FROCK.

Cold shoulder tailoring and drapey, body con fit was a VERY Deco style. This is a custom-made gown from the mid-century. I can tell from the fabric that this gorgeous dark green velvet didn’t come from the 1930’s. Probably 1960’s or 1970’s – true vintage retro! It’s still a beautiful and unusual dress . . wonder if it was made for a special event, as a glam hostess dress or a costume for a theater production? I’ll wear it in a heartbeat.

Jewel colors are super for winter fashions, as well as black and white. I’ll show more of these in the next few posts as we come forward through the decades. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SNUGGLEY TRUE VINTAGE SLEEPWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR 1950’S – 1970’S

Everybody seems to love red, especially this time of year. It’s certainly a color which can make us feel warmer, which is what we’re beginning to need in a big way now. On the left is a favorite 1950’s pajama set of mine, woven 100% cotton with little fans printed all over. The print would make you think that these must be women’s PJ’s but actually these are a large size boys’! Take a look at the direction of the button closure.

Although I have lots of women’s PJ’s and gowns, my men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are really special. Classic unisex PJ style (though, often, men’s have a fly), but the best feature is that the men’s garments are very sometimes printed with wonderful medallion prints or novelty prints like the one above. A large (16 – 18) vintage boys’ size will fit me well – I wear a ladies 4. A men’s small will usually do OK or can be easily altered. Women’s PJ’s are most often of a solid color nylon or silk or a fine cotton printed with small flowers, decorated with lace or other trim. Really beautiful and comfy, but sometimes a little boring.

However, true warmth comes from robes, and this is where the women’s garments shine. They are more often found in warm fabrics such as plush, chenille and quilting. Women traditionally spent more time at home than men did so ladies’ true vintage robes and dressing gowns are built to be worn for several hours, rather than just after getting out of the bath or shower. Although men’s vintage robes sometimes have nice prints, women’s are more often embellished with embroidery, trim and buttons. Each decade had it’s typical style and popular fabric but the general rules seem to apply to sleepwear and robes from all the decades from the late 1800’s to the present day.

My 1970’s robe above is certainly worthy of Mrs. Claus as she makes breakfast for the elves. (Sorry, but traditional folklore and myths tend to be very sexist.) It’s by Vanity Fair, a company which has made women’s at-home styles and lingerie for decades. I love the pretty style, but the long bell sleeves are very impractical in the kitchen and I don’t think the mid-priced market for this item targeted women who had hired “help” at home. That can be an inherent problem with true vintage fashions – occasionally they are poorly suited to an average lifestyle and can even be uncomfortable at times but that’s a minor consideration and not worth a mention as long as you are in the know. Wouldn’t stop me gathering the evidence for a second. When did practicality ever have anything to do with fashion and style, especially when a holiday or other special occasions are on the horizon? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another “New” Find – Mid-century Fringed Western-wear Jacket

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This one’s been well-loved and worn, but excepting the fringe it’s in good vintage condition. So iconic that I couldn’t resist picking it up. Lots of clues here, and I was also able to speak to a witness who provided additional information.

First clue: Always look for the origin. I researched this Western-wear label and it seems that the store no longer exists. No surprise after 60 or 70 years but this may not always be the case. The way that the label is made also gives me information about it’s age. However, be alert to copycats on more modern items. Second clue: scope out anything that may not have been original (added decoration, changed buttons, zip replacement, mending, etc.). Each one of these features can fill out the story to a remarkable degree. Third clue: Look at signs of wear or damage – they also can tell a story.

What I have learned about this garment by investigating as above: 1. It was purchased in the 1950’s or 1960’s. 2. The store may have been part of a chain rather than a single entity. Part of this conclusion comes from investigation of the label itself and also from the quality of the garment – very good, but not the best I’ve seen. 3. The beads are not original. This conclusion was affirmed by the witness who offered a statement. 4. The original owner, now deceased, took good care of her coat but wasn’t always careful. The inside is virtually pristine but there are a few light spots on the outside which had not been cleaned and significant damage to the fringe. Part of this damage is inevitable due to the age of the leather but also looks accidental. I wonder if repeated seatbelt use without care may have caused this.

This person was also the one who got married in the eyelet dress which I showed a couple of days ago. It looks like there was a change in her size during the time between acquiring these two garments, so that’s another clue as to the ages of the garment and owner and the eras during which it was worn.

How fun! I hope that you enjoyed this little journey through an investigation. There will be more, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

You Just Never Know Where Your Next “Find” Will Come From . . . True Vintage ’60s – ’70s Totebag/Purse

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What a surprise! At a party where we all contributed “white elephant” gifts, guess what turned up? After some swapping, this was one of my prizes. True vintage decorated tote bag or purse from the 1960’s/’70’s. Near mint condition.

How do I know it’s original vintage?  1. the style  2. the types of decoration used  3. the construction  4. in this case, some minor signs of age.

How do I know where it (probably) came from?  The Cardinal and the Dogwood are the official state bird and flower of North Carolina.  Eat your heart out, Sherlock.

It’s so beautifully done. Love the colors. Fun!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

FUN & MOD TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S WOOL JACKET

True Vintage 1960s Lightweight Wool Spring Jacket

This lined jacket, labeled “Young Girl”, is full of nautical style details. Epaulets, double-breasted and the bright navy color make me think of Spring styles, which have often had a nautical theme, but it works equally well in the Fall.  Classic but cute – it really calls for a hat or cap like the ones I’ve seen from the late 1960’s.

The oversize breast pocket is interesting and there are also slash pockets with welts at each hip, which can’t be seen in the photo. Button tabs at the hip allow for a small size adjustment. Buttons at the sleeve cuffs also allow for an adjustment. Since this is a Girls’ size 18, perhaps it was styled to accomodate some growth – a very practical idea and always workable on such a classic style which never goes out of fashion.

I wish that clothing-makers still used that kind of quality, care and creative thinking today!  However, my gain because this one has lasted for 50 years and fits a small Misses size, (such as moi!). Another unexpected find while I was sleuthing – you just never know . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

Another version of the 1950’s Car Coat, in Suede with Mink

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An iconic style from the ’50s, this true vintage “car coat” can go from dressy to casual, in cool to mild weather.  I’ve found quite a few coats and jackets in suede from that era and find that they all hold up beautifully.  Fortunately for us, our mothers and grandmothers seem to have looked after their wardrobes very well, too.

Since these items are mostly of a higher quality material and construction, we can continue to enjoy them for years to come!  I’ve found a ton of great true vintage items during this past week, exploring  hidden hide-outs.  Keep watching and I’ll sprinkle some of these in among the posts.  It’s  SO MUCH FUN!  You just never know . . . . .

Morgana Martin@Google+, magicvintagespy@facebook.com, Twitter and Pinterest

Classic Toque

Classic Toque.