Category Archives: war-time

TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DAY DRESSES (& ACCESSORIES)

Made from cotton, poly and rayon – these dresses from the pre- and post-war years of the 1940’s tell a fashion history of what was happening during the decade. In the late 1930’s and first 2 years of the 1940’s the war was still fomenting in Europe and Americans didn’t feel especially impacted by this. We had not joined the fight yet and everything at home was ticking along as usual, with fun movie entertainment, jitterbug dancing and jazz. Casual cotton dresses were available, as well as comfy cotton slips. A Western-wear travel fad breezed through the fashion world and sunglasses became more and more common accessories. Cat-eye glasses were called Harlequin glasses then but a round or square lens with heavy plastic frames was the most common until the 1950’s. (Of course, the glasses case in the second picture is retro 1960’s.)

While the reality of war was settling in, synthetic poly fabrics and some rayon took the place of cotton, silk and wool. During rationing, shirtwaist dresses were still the classic standard but hemlines inched up, sleeves got shorter, details and pretty decoration decreased and styles changed, with more sheath dresses being seen. Some of these things changed back after the war but fashion always moves forward. More 1940’s fashion tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE STYLES FROM THE SEVENTIES

The 1970’s was far from a stellar fashion decade, as far as I’m concerned, but it did include several signature trends. Seventies does Forties, Boho/Prairie, polyester knit pantsuits and dresses (including men’s leisure suits), long pointy collars and animal prints were the predominant ones. The garments shown above are all from the early part of the decade. Psychedelic prints still showed up. Flower power still had a moment. Disco glitz was queen in the late 1970’s. Virtually everything was made of polyester fabric.

Carly Simon wore a hat similar to the one above on her first album cover in 1971 or 2 and it became instantly trendy. 1940’s styles, especially the tailoring details and medium-size shoulder pads, became really popular. Look at the trims on the short sleeved blouses. They are very ’40’s-looking. See the high waist and full legs on the slacks – women’s pants of the 1940’s were mostly made this way. An exception was Western-wear slacks, which tended to be slimmer.

The most-worn styles included platform shoes and jumpsuits in a big way. Military personnel and working women made jumpsuit uniforms visible during wartime and they became part of trendy fashion. The example above is from the early 1970’s. I have found and enjoyed wearing all of these designs. There are many photos in the files, but I can’t display them all at once. Some 1940’s styles popped up again in the 1980’s and I’ll show a few tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE DAY DRESSES THROUGH THE DECADES, HANDBAGS AND SHOES – 1930’s

Two of my favorite 1930’s dresses to wear and one when I feel like Bonnie of Bonnie and Clyde. The fabrics feel so wonderful on the body and the fit is killer because of the fabulous drape. An earlier find, I was thrilled to discover the blue dress because of it’s condition. The original buttons and belt are present and no damage to the trim at the neckline. Also, no stains! You can see that the body of the dress has faded a bit due to years of washing by the original owner (compare to the color of the belt, which would not have been put in the laundry), but I don’t mind. The floral-print yellow and green frock is near-perfect and is a bit more casual. Super easy-breezy. The crocheted dress with satiny rayon slip given to me by a family member who found it in an old antique wardrove is the real star. It still has the authentic celluloid plastic belt buckle. The longer hemline makes it probably the oldest of the group, from the very early ’30’s. I have to include a 1980’s or ’90’s dress that dipped into a retro 1930’s. The yellow rayon belted sheath is a fun fashion with loyalty to the Thirties style and lovely rayon fabric.

These are both mid-priced dresses, at most, but have held up over 70 years before finding their way into my closet. It’s possible they were home-sewn. I love the elbow-length sleeves and the way that the fabric causes the hemline to ripple and sway. Very flattering. Both do require a slip underneath because of the sheerness and, since they are warmer weather frocks, I like to wear a true vintage cotton slip with very little decoration so that it doesn’t show through and compete with the print. Slips of that sort are hard to find since most of the slips that have survived are made of nylon and full of decorative detail. Although some fabrics don’t seem to require a slip, wearing one often causes the dress to fit and move so much better. Your other foundation garments i.e. brassiere, underpants and even stockings will have a real effect on how your outfit looks so it’s an important consideration. I have silk tap pants and some silk slips from the pre-war and WWII era that are good examples of undergarments that work really well with dresses like these.

Mary Jane style shoes are seen in every decade since the 1920’s. Decorated flats became popular for women, too, especially when they began wearing slacks. The shoes shown above may be a little younger than the dresses and purses, but are still within a decade or so. Handbags woven from synthetic yarn were another way that the market for clothing and accessories coped with the economic downturn of the Depression and the looming rationing of wartime. Leather, silk, quality cotton and wool were less available and too expensive for many buyers. The big move forward in the development of synthetics changed clothing in big ways, many having to do with fit, comfort and convenience so, overall, the deprivation turned out to be a plus. Tomorrow we move into the 1940’s. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE SPRING JACKETS & COAT 1940’S – 1980’S

Distinctive tailoring and fabric in ladies’ jackets helps identify their decade in fashion history. Wool jackets with interesting buttons and lots of tailored details were very popular from the late 1930’s into the 1950’s. Not all 1940’s jackets had big, military-style shoulders. The two 1940’s jackets in the first photo are good examples which were both parts of a skirt suit originally. They’d look great with a pair of tailored pants, too. Look at the buttons and pockets that draw attention. Tabs on the cuffs and waistline detail do the same. Both jackets have an easy, flattering fit.

In the 1950’s, jackets became more sporty and body-conscious in many cases. This fitted white leather jacket is a great example. Covered buttons, a wide collar, slash pockets and back vent really draw the eye. It’s sleek and streamlined. The fitting reflects that in the tapered sleeves and fitted waist. Extra room on top which accents she shoulders and bustline gives a bit of an athletic or “va-va-voom” figure enhancement. Love it!

The bright red all-weather textured polyester coat from the 1970’s has many mid-century style features. The stand-out collar design with extended lapels is a “1970’s does 1940’s” style which was very popular in the early Seventies. The fitted Princess cut also harks back to the 1940’s and 1950’s, up through the early 1960’s because it is very classic. Knee-length hemlines on coats reflected the hemlines on skirts and dresses, so were shorter during WWII and the mini-skirt era between the early ’60’s and early ’70’s.

The tan-color 1980’s jacket is also made of leather. It’s a casual style that is more international and eccentric but has a bomber jacket silhouette paired with a 1940’s peplum waist that goes with some types of skirts and pants. Lots of gathers on the shoulders and at the waist give it a roomy fit that lets you wear a sweater underneath if you want to.

Before heading into a chronology of true vintage Spring day dresses, we’ll take a Snowbird vacation tomorrow. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MORE TRUE VINTAGE HATS FOR MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLES

Aren’t these fun and beautiful! From the 1940’s to the early 1960’s, women would hardly leave the house without a hat. Straw, suede, velvet, synthetic mesh, wool felt and ribbon were all used frequently. Artificial flowers and real feathers were, too. The combinations and designs were almost limitless. Finding a hat that flattered you and accented your clothing was an epic quest.

Even though I’ve been told that numerous groundhogs predicted an early Spring this year (yay!), I’ll be leaving the Spring fashions for a bit while concentrating on some beloved and practical vintage wardrobe items that have kept women and men warm on frigid days like the one’s we’ve been living with. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE STRAPPY PUMPS TO WEAR WITH SPRING ENSEMBLES from the 1960’s and 1940’s

Basic neutral tones will take you around the full year, so these pretty shoes can go along even with some pastel outfits. Back in the day, a pair of black shoes and a pair of brown ones were sometimes the only options a gal had to choose from but, even now, beige and mid-gray will go with almost anything and lighten things up a little. Cutaways, sling-backs and ankle straps have been enduring styles for many decades. Don’t you love the 1940’s high heel take on the traditional black Mary Jane?

I understand that today stiletto heels and open designs are not a good choice in the freezing temps and snow that we have in so many places now. However, in the past when fewer people owned cars, many gals carried their indoor footwear and left snow boots at the door. Public buildings, stores and churches used to routinely have special places to do that. Winter fashion had to start giving way in February, in spite of the weather!

I’ll continue with showing some accessories as well as giving a nod to some cold-weather staple vintage clothing for both women and men. After that, we can’t avoid launching on clothing for the traditional winter vacation before swinging back to Spring dresses. Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR THREE-SEASON SKIRT SUIT & HAT & PUMPS

Imagine my THRILL at discovering this never-worn ladies’ suit from the late 1940’s to early 1950’s! Perfect condition, tags still on. Love the wasp waist and strong shoulders. The white trim is so stylish and perfect for Spring, though the medium weight of the fabric makes it wearable on cool Summer and Fall days, too. This beautiful hat could have been made to match, but was found completely separately. How perfect is the color and little round white button and white stripe on the brim?! Although the pumps are not a perfect color match and were made in the 1960’s or 1970’s, I include them because the Spectator style was very popular during this pre- and post-war time frame and is a perfect part of this ensemble.

It’s wonderful when evidence fits together in this way. It’s certain that a hat, some kind of hat, would have been worn with this suit because of the era when it was sold. But, finding the PERFECT hat in this way is rare, though never impossible. That’s one of the things that make the one-and-only Magicvintagespy’s craft so wonderful and unique. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM