Category Archives: war-time

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Hats: Another Stand-out Accessory That Belongs in Every True Vintage Wardrobe

In my book, the 1940’s through the 1960’s was the best era for ladies’ hats in the U.S. unless you’re into antiquities. Yes, every decade has had some great ones but most beautiful hats that are truly wearable come from the Mid-century. Here are some iconic examples from each of those decades: a Forties picture hat, Fifties toque & pillbox with veil and Sixties pastel cellophane/raffia hats.

Mainstream women from all three of these decades wore hats frequently, if not daily. (Classic films and old magazines are good documentation of this.) So, obviously, they were sold in every store which carried ladies’ fashions and most were affordable. Easy to wear, flattering and very collectable, so go for it. . . . . . and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S JACKET AND SKIRT

I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.

Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit.  The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.

The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage.  When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago.  The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Few 1930’s -1940s – early 1950’s Wardrobe Staples

A Few 1940s Wardrobe Staples

Here are a few items that I ran across by surprise – from the 1940s (or so).  All perfect finishes for a wartime or post-war costume.  Mary-jane all leather shoes (always a classic), Capezio soft leather dance or casual flats and a couple of simple woven bags from the Depression era or time of wartime rationing – a drawstring and one with a metal zip in the top.  It’s fun to find things in such good condition (and at very good prices). You just never know . . . .

Morgana Martin, the magicvintagespy

Blog:  Magicvintagespy.com

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS – STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940’S / 1950’S

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS - STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940'S / 1950'S

Daytime into evening glamour for some well-dressed women back in the day.  I just love the details and distinctive style of these.

Unmistakably true vintage, they’re extremely versatile today when we might wear them with anything from jeans to evening clothing.  And, of course, a perfect final touch to any period costume.

Naturally, they’re beautifully finished inside, with the original owner’s initials sewn to the lining.  The little pockets on the front of the cape are an interesting feature – and that BIG button closure – AND the huge cuffs on the ’40’s jacket – LOVE!

Since supporting the current market for new furs is a major no-no for anyone who values animal rights, as I do, I’m grateful for the excellent imitation furs that are being made now and that the sales of new real furs seem to be diminishing – at least in the U.S.  I hope that’s true.

It’s OK to enjoy these pretty designs from a half-century ago for their place in fashion history and beautiful craftsmanship.  I never get tired of wondering and imagining about the origins and histories of the lovely garments I find, and how to wear them now . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930’S – 1940′ S – EARLY 1950’s

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930'S - 1940'S - early 1950's

I just love this cape and it’s little details.  I’m an animal rights activist and don’t approve of the fur trade in any way, but I have collected old ones from back in the day.

Not sure what the origin of this fur is.  The stripes are clearly dyed, probably to resemble mink.  It’s got these funny little tabs to “close” the bottoms of the arm slits, for a better appearance and added warmth.

Of course, it had patches sewn inside with the owner’s initials embroidered on, along with the maker’s label, both of which are gone now.  Surprisingly, it’s in great condition for its age – still soft and radiant.

These garments are so full of history that they intrigue me as much as any other vintage fashion.  I wear them, too.  Some people would say this is hypocritical but  I would disagree – buying or wearing antique fur or leather does not support the current market for these things unless someone makes an irresponsible decision.  I suggest that we should all be responsible for our choices in the marketplace – so, if you like my vintage fur, don’t use that as an excuse to go out and buy a modern one.  Search for another vintage fur at least 50 or more years old or buy an imitation fur replica and do something kind for wildlife or your pet.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s BOWLING TEAM DRESS / UNIFORM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s BOWLING TEAM DRESS/UNIFORM

Back to wartime or post-war frocks.  This is the cutest rayon dress ever, with that iconic swingy skirt that ’40s dresses often have and a wonderful relic from the ever-popular women’s bowling teams of the war  years.  Just like splashy musical movies, recreational activities like hometown sports were a great distraction from the reality of the times.

Anhauser-Busch or, more likely the local beer distributor, was the team sponsor.  Hence, the Busch Bavarian Beer patches on front and back.  The belt had the player’s name embroidered on it.  Perfect features for costume-wear!

Without the patches, the dress is styled like many day dresses from that time.  This one is probably from the late 1940s or, possibly, the early 1950s.

What a thrill to find it, and in excellent if not near perfect condition!  You truly just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1980’s DOES ’40’s – ’30’s GLAM RAYON VELVET GOWN

This example is one of the few cases where picking up a more modern garment is worthwhile.  Although it’s definitely retro and not expensively made, this gown has so many of the true-to-style elements that evening frocks from the 1930’s and 1940’s did – I was delighted to see how much of the styling the designers had gotten “right” and couldn’t resist it as a great costume.

For Halloween or a historical play it will be lots of fun and fits me well.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM