Home-Sewn 1940’s Wartime Party Dress

A simple frock, probably made while times were lean and rationing had been imposed on the markets. The fabric is heavy – almost like taffeta but not that real deal. Probably some kind of rayon or acetate. The little splurge is the velveteen neckline, but during WWII any dress like this for an average gal was probably a splurge.

Even on a garment this modest, I love to discover the tailoring features that make it unique. In addition to the neckline trim, notice the little fold-overs that accent the shoulders. Shaping makes the bodice and waist trim and produces the full circle skirt. A deep hem allowance is also a luxury on a dress like this since it adds the option of adding length, adds a little weight to help the skirt sway and just makes the dress look like a more expensive garment.

I think it was made for a teen or a very tiny woman, but who knows the real story. Might even have been a Prom dress – good style for Swing dancing ad Jitterbug. What a fun find! Stay tuned for more knee length and midi cocktail frocks as well as full length gowns . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Interesting Early 1950’s Home-Sewn “Cocktail Dress”

When I spied this frock, I knew it was true vintage but couldn’t actually place it. With a little research I discovered that dresses of this type, worn over a plain slip-dress of some kind, had their niche popularity in the early 1950’s. This one must have been a home-seamstress’s answer to having a more affordable version.

At first I couldn’t decide between the front and back, but when put on Madge, who is a perfectly proportioned modern size 6, it is obvious that the cowl effect fits best in the front and is an elegant style. Depending on how it fits, could also be worn in the reverse. It’s always fun to solve the mysteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OUR GRANDMOTHERS’ MID-CENTURY HOLIDAY AND HOSTESS KITCHEN APRONS

These are just 3 out of my collection of lovely kitchen aprons, but perhaps a bit more interesting and seasonal than others I have, which are more generic, like a cotton gingham check without any specific theme. Many aprons, like the first one here, were specifically themed for a particular holiday or fashion era. It’s a great example, with bright color and a novelty print for Thanksgiving. Although it’s definitely trendy and targeted, it is also at least somewhat practical because of the machine-washable fabric, wraparound style, secure ties and big pocket. It could actually do the job of keeping the cook’s skirt clean. The most useful styles also covered the bodice.

The usefulness is really important, but I love the novelty print. It’s always good to play the hostess in something that also makes people smile. The two aprons following are entirely different in their purpose. These are made from a much more delicate fabric and would be best washed by hand, both because of their delicacy and because they are hand-painted. They were made for and gifted to my grandmother by a relative who at least did the painting herself, if not the sewing job. Gifts like this were common in her day, and cherished. These aprons were made not so much to protect clothing as to be pretty. Grandma might have worn them when she had her friends in for tea or a card game, maybe even for hosting an at-home cocktail party. The messy part of the hostess job would have already been done when she made the cake or other refreshments beforehand.

Aprons were much more commonly worn in decades past and were a significant part of a woman’s household wardrobe, like housedresses worn on cleaning day. Most women’s (especially married women’s) lives were organized around a routine of household duties throughout the week and each one usually required a different kind of outfit – one for cooking, one cleaning, one for tending plants, one for doing the weekly shopping. Special accessories to these outfits were needed for certain jobs, such as gloves of various kinds, hats of various kinds, nursing bras and pads to protect clothing from breast milk and burping babies. Housewives were trained to be very practical and were rewarded by Society for a job well-done. The home was their workplace and the role defined them, so their household wardrobe had a central place in their lives. For better or for worse, that was the way it was. Do we want that again? Think about it and keep your eyes on the clues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another True Vintage Accessory – Fabulous Spanish-made Boots

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These beauties were made in 1979! Wow, do I ever love them!! Soft, supple glove leather with leather soles and heels. All the beautiful workmanship that was expected in European-made footwear. Shoes from Spain and Italy, especially. Not sure if that’s true now, but it certainly was up to a couple of decades ago. Still have the original everything and they’re going strong!

Oldies really are the best goodies! And, on top of that, they don’t contribute to animal cruelty or inhumanity in the marketplace today. True vintage purchases, especially from a reputable charity shop or individual (do your research) is VEGAN and responsible. That can go for anything made of leather, skins or fur several decades ago. We can appreciate and get service from these vintage items without doing any harm to life or the environment today. That’s how to enjoy the best of the best. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HEY, MOM – I NEED A HALLOWEEN COSTUME! NO WORRIES FOR OUR 1950’S HOMEMAKER . . .

IMG_0966 IMG_0963     She’d just pull out the latest edition of her McCalls Needlework magazine.  And, of course, there is the Christmas Pageant, too . .. . .

I can’t believe the intricacy of these home-sewing DIY patterns.  Women used to do this all the time!

Once when I was a kid, my (I thought) non-sewing grandmother did  whip up a very convincing 1960’s black collarless jacket for me when I wanted to be a Beatle for Halloween.  Who knew?  . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS FIND! 1940’S OR EARLY 1950’S 2-PC SWEATER DRESS – VA-VA-VOOM!!

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What a wiggle dress this is!  Marilyn Monroe – move over!!  What a rare find – couldn’t believe it when it appeared (no, I fib. Of course I could).  It’s hand-knitted, as was the one given to me several years ago by my friend Rosalie, who had made it herself in 1952.  Likely, many women who were competent needle-workers did so when this style was popular.

This example is made of the same glossy yarn I wrote about several days ago.  My other garments made from it are casual sweaters, so I was floored to find this lovely dress of the same material!  Just perfect for a sophisticated occasion.  I’m keeping it for wearing at just the right vintage venues (local museum events come to mind) or theme cocktail parties, Halloween  . . . . . . . . ..

Anyway, I’ll be having LOTS of fun with it.  That’s what it’s all about!!!  Too much enthusiasm?  Never . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CUSTOM-TAILORED 1950’s early 1960’s ROCKABILLY SUNDRESS

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Ooh, LOVE this!  Stella’s got a real rockabilly thing going on.  What a pretty and flirty dress someone made back in the day!

Just right for summer shopping, dancing and just playing around.  The bust-line flounce, wrap tie cummerbund belt and full skirt are really flattering features that also allow for some size variability when you have skinny or fat days.  Although, this frock was made for a slender gal because there are no zipper or buttons.

Ah, well.  Stella can do it, and so can I.  So, definitely another keeper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG;  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM