BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1980’s DOES ’40’s – ’30’s GLAM RAYON VELVET GOWN

This example is one of the few cases where picking up a more modern garment is worthwhile.  Although it’s definitely retro and not expensively made, this gown has so many of the true-to-style elements that evening frocks from the 1930’s and 1940’s did – I was delighted to see how much of the styling the designers had gotten “right” and couldn’t resist it as a great costume.

For Halloween or a historical play it will be lots of fun and fits me well.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S SEMI-FORMAL SLEEK AND STRAPLESS DINNER GOWN

IMG_1656In midnight navy blue, this dress is elegant in rayon with a side zipper.  Let me tell you how she would have dressed it up . . . . . . . .

A diamond or rhinestone necklace or pearls, depending on the venue, would be first – with some elegant earrings to complement. And, a small dress handbag.

A stole, fur or dressy coat, of course, unless it’s the height of summer (but, even then . . . . . .)  Finished off, courtesy of her escort, with a corsage.

The bodice has no boning, so those little mesh straps hold it in place.  When I wear it, I prefer a pair of ’50’s evening sandals of dark navy fabric with  pearlized ornaments on the vamp rather than the Forties styles that Stella is wearing.   Beautiful as she is, this frock is really better suited for Marilyn . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY SIXTIES FORMAL OR SEMI-FORMAL DRESSES IN PASTELS WITH LACE OR EMBROIDERED OVERLAY

EARLY SIXTIES SPRING SEMI-FORMAL DRESSES IN PASTELS WITH LACE OVERLAY

A hallmark of early Sixties fashion was lace or embroidered organza overlay, which we see again and again every decade or two! These very pretty frocks were meant for semi-formal occasions – dinners, parties, dances and ceremonies. A professional cleaning will refresh the full-length ones in time for a wedding!  The bride would look gorgeous in the white and the blue is perfect for any of a wedding party or mother-of-the-bride.

They’re so feminine and flattering, in a variety of styles.  And, of course, beautifully-made.  I especially like the knee-length one – a little bit Mod, but also traditional.   The lace over-dress is partially open in the back, revealing the fitted sheath beneath.  Long sleeves add a little warmth for early Spring and make the design more demure BUT . . . . . . .

very sexy in an elegant and sophisticated way.  They knew how to do that back in the day.  A lost art?  I hope not  . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

CLASSIC GARAY EVENING CLUTCH FROM THE 1950’S

So many clutch purses are made today in vintage styles, but there’s nothing like the quality and attention to detail found in true vintage examples.  I’ll ALWAYS go for those instead!  I love rigid handles that can be folded inside the purse to hide and beautiful satin fabric covering is always elegant and versatile.  Two compartments inside with a see-through vinyl divider is so practical, too.

This Garay handbag is elegant and probably never carried.  There is a bit of storage wear, but the inside is absolutely perfect.  Sigh – another happy escapade!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – 1960’s DRESSY PETIT POINT TAPESTRY-LOOK HANDBAG

IMG_2545This style, popular in the 1950’s and early 1960’s, looks like it’s never been carried!  Mid-century ladies often had two or three treasured handbags carefully stored in a dresser for specific occasions, from semi-dress to formal.  I love these pretty dressy purses that add an elegant touch to evening or better day dresses. They used to be a staple of city-wear for well-dressed women . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THIS TIME I REALLY HIT THE JACKPOT! 1950’S – 1960’S CLUTCH PURSES – METALLIC, LEATHER AND BEADS

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Look at these beauties!  The convertible clutch style which lets you use the handle or not has always been so versatile and convenient.  Although some of these are very mid-quality, they all have some distinctive features that make them stand out as great true vintage finds.  Let’s start out from left to right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The white purse at far left is a high-quality construction from the Sixties and has that shiny box hardware enclosing it on 3 sides.  It is made of leather and has a shoulder strap that can be tucked inside. Very sleek and streamlined – a great look for summer.

The 1950’s beaded evening bag in front is in perfect condition, with a silk satin lining and a beautiful clasp and box chain handle, which can be hidden inside.  This type of handbag was always hand-made, usually in Hong Kong.  Even for an expert, can you imagine the care and time it took to attach all those beads so perfectly and securely?

The other three bags have a metallic finish and are made of synthetic materials or cloth – not in quite as good shape as the first two.  But, they are nicely made and all have pretty hardware clasps – always interesting to find.  The two in the center also have box or braided chain handles, rather than the simple chain that is most often seen.  These more complex types of chain are prettier and also seemed to break less easily.

As always, they all show that care was taken to preserve and protect them, so I can enjoy them 50 or 60 years later!  The throw-away quality that we seem to be satisfied with today can’t begin to compare, but is still way over-priced!! Such  a shame – but not for this Magicvintagespy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MID-CENTURY TRUE VINTAGE SISTER HANDBAGS-MADE IN HONG KONG

Both these little ladies were made in Hong Kong, of similar basic design, but there is a world of difference between them.  Lady Right was made for the uptown market, while Lady Left was sold downtown.  Though they’re both clean and well-put-together, Lady Right grew up with all the best, while Lady Left’s beginnings were more humble.

It’s obvious “in person” that these bags were made for different markets. The styling in both is superior, but the materials and extra attention to detail show that Lady Right brought a higher price.  Just comparing these two pretties, found at the same time, was a fun chance to evaluate a number of “clues” about their backgrounds.

I don’t have a favorite.  Their stories are equally interesting to me  (maybe Lady Left’s is a little more so . . . . .).  Each one is perfect with the outfit that coordinates with it.  While Lady Left could be much more casual, she is no less elegant – maybe even more so, if you don’t look too closely. Lady Right could seem a little tasteless if she showed up everywhere dressed like that.

I see one for holiday festivities or a very gala occasion (maybe tonight?), while the other would be lovely with a pretty summer dress.  Both would be gorgeous for a bridal venue. It can all be so fascinating . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

I NEVER GET TIRED OF ELEGANT MID-CENTURY CLUTCH PURSES

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I know – the black rayon evening handbag is so common and I see many of them.  Although they almost always have something for their designers to be proud of in comparison to today’s cheap copies, I usually pass them by (I have so many!)  However, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

once in a while I’ll see one with an unusual clasp or shape that makes me take a second look and know that I gotta have it.  Here is one.  It’s in beautiful condition, for one thing, but the closure set off to one side is handy and attractive.  The style  has that sleek, atomic feel that some post-war and mid-century modern designers really went for in the age of mega-bombs and Sputnik.

No matter how long this handbag hangs around, it will never be anything less than elegant.  The quality and “look” keep it from being dated or unfashionable.  Unless we someday stop carrying handbags altogether – you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM