One of my most cherished dresses, probably from the post-war period but, possibly, from before the war ramped up in the early 1940’s. My favorite thing regarding this frock is the fabric print with the neckline detail a close second. Very artistic. The cold rayon of that era was so fabulous in it’s soft hand and exquisite drape – such a beautiful fit and supremely comfortable.
It’s always impossible for me not to go into a bliss state when I examine a beautiful garment like this; So much history and outstanding tailoring. There will be more – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.
The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?
Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.
So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Look at all these wonderful design and tailoring details. It even has both the maker’s label and the National Recovery Board label inside. And, WOW, I didn’t find a single piece of wear evidence – somebody loved this jacket, cared for it scrupulously, wore it gently and guarded it fiercely!
Obviously, it’s too big for both Stella and Moi, so it’s gone onto eBay. Another casualty of the archive purge and more continue, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Here’s the other gem that was hiding out when the yellow pouf formal turned up. (see post 2 days ago). Similar era but entirely different, and not made for the same woman. Hmm . . . . . . .
Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in it’s modest sophistication and with a metal zipper by Waldes, this gown may be from the early 1950’s or even the late 1940’s. Someone loved it, as it’s in near-perfect condition. Worn by a second-time-around bride, bridesmaid, matron of honor, mother of the bride, Prom queen? I guess we’ll never know, but best guess is a one-time event that wasn’t a bit rowdy. I suspect a wedding.
What a wonderful find, also becoming more and more rare. But, clues are still out there. Stay tuned . . . . .
As you know, I’ve been on holiday from the sleuthing trade since late October but had several finds right before that time and also something recent. So, I’m ready to catch you up while I have a bit of time at Headquarters.
A tiny, tiny, tiny dress and SO Fifties! This was a size 5, maybe in ’55. Now a size 00 or smaller. Perfect condition. This was a really exciting discovery, as these frocks have become more and more scarce. Sadly, there is no label inside excepting the all-important Garment Workers tag. It’s always so much fun, and useful data, to have a maker’s label to research or use to tell more of the story. Labels are always a first-line clue.
Fortunately for the investigation, another gown was hiding in the same spot! Did they belong to the same suspect even though they are quite different? Rare clues sometimes travel together. Stay tuned . . .
First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.
What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.
My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Haven’t been investigating lately – too much traveling. But, it never fails! This trendy day frock was from a high-end hotel shop, probably in Los Angeles. The iconic hotel closed, finally, in 1993 but was opened, I believe, in the late 1920’s. Well-heeled clients bought luxury goods there for decades.
This casual day dress is no exception, with all the features of a beautifully-tailored garment: pure silk fabric, hand-stitching, hidden seams, full lining, piped edging on the neckline, armholes and decorating the seams which shape the front of the dress, hooks and eyes closing the top of the neckline at nape, sewn-in strap holders at the shoulders, hem is hand-finished with silk tape. Made in Hong Kong (for that kind of high quality, where else?).
The floral print is a cross between the psychedelic and flower power designs of the mid 1960’s to early 1970’s in the vibrant clear colors of that era. The A-line shape, Mandarin collar and knee length also reflect the style for conservative high-end day dresses made at that time.
Labeled as a size 14, that really dates this dress, too. It’s just a little large for me, which would put it at a modern size 4-6. Asian-made fashions do sometimes seem to run small but I’m not sure if that was true for garments made decades ago for the U.S. market. There’s no obvious evidence that the dress has been altered. Another plus – it’s in almost perfect condition!
One of the last things I might have expected to find, but that’s what makes sleuthing so much fun! Always surprises; hidden and revealing clues. Stay tuned – you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yes, September often means it’s time to switch out some of the Summer wardrobe for warmer clothing. Traditionally, it was also the time to put away anything white, including accessories. That means I’m looking over my collection of true vintage handbags and selecting a couple that coordinate well with my Autumn fashion choices. Not only does that mean switching out a matching wallet, but other handy purse accessories from back in the day can be included. What savvy dame would forget to equip her handbag with smart and handy accessories? Here are just a few.
It’s so fun to look back into our mothers’ and grandmothers’ handbags to see what they used to carry on a daily basis. These are just a smattering of the interesting items I’ve seen. Mirrors, combs and tiny brushes, lipstick cases, foldable rain hats, key cases and key-rings all came in different sizes, styles and designs. An emery board and an orange stick were usually tucked in somewhere. Smokers also had special accessories – cases, lighters and interesting matchbooks. Little pillboxes were very decorative and pretty. I’ve got a few of those.
Above we see two note pads (with attached pen or pencil), a manicure set, sewing kit, mirror set (with normal and magnifying glasses), and an attractive case for a comb.
The intelligent and fashionable woman is always well-prepared when stepping out, no matter what her mission may be. Efficiency and style – that’s my motto . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.
Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit. The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.
The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage. When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago. The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!
Magicvintagespy 