Here’s the other gem that was hiding out when the yellow pouf formal turned up. (see post 2 days ago). Similar era but entirely different, and not made for the same woman. Hmm . . . . . . .
Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in it’s modest sophistication and with a metal zipper by Waldes, this gown may be from the early 1950’s or even the late 1940’s. Someone loved it, as it’s in near-perfect condition. Worn by a second-time-around bride, bridesmaid, matron of honor, mother of the bride, Prom queen? I guess we’ll never know, but best guess is a one-time event that wasn’t a bit rowdy. I suspect a wedding.
What a wonderful find, also becoming more and more rare. But, clues are still out there. Stay tuned . . . . .
As you know, I’ve been on holiday from the sleuthing trade since late October but had several finds right before that time and also something recent. So, I’m ready to catch you up while I have a bit of time at Headquarters.
A tiny, tiny, tiny dress and SO Fifties! This was a size 5, maybe in ’55. Now a size 00 or smaller. Perfect condition. This was a really exciting discovery, as these frocks have become more and more scarce. Sadly, there is no label inside excepting the all-important Garment Workers tag. It’s always so much fun, and useful data, to have a maker’s label to research or use to tell more of the story. Labels are always a first-line clue.
Fortunately for the investigation, another gown was hiding in the same spot! Did they belong to the same suspect even though they are quite different? Rare clues sometimes travel together. Stay tuned . . .
First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.
What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.
My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Haven’t been investigating lately – too much traveling. But, it never fails! This trendy day frock was from a high-end hotel shop, probably in Los Angeles. The iconic hotel closed, finally, in 1993 but was opened, I believe, in the late 1920’s. Well-heeled clients bought luxury goods there for decades.
This casual day dress is no exception, with all the features of a beautifully-tailored garment: pure silk fabric, hand-stitching, hidden seams, full lining, piped edging on the neckline, armholes and decorating the seams which shape the front of the dress, hooks and eyes closing the top of the neckline at nape, sewn-in strap holders at the shoulders, hem is hand-finished with silk tape. Made in Hong Kong (for that kind of high quality, where else?).
The floral print is a cross between the psychedelic and flower power designs of the mid 1960’s to early 1970’s in the vibrant clear colors of that era. The A-line shape, Mandarin collar and knee length also reflect the style for conservative high-end day dresses made at that time.
Labeled as a size 14, that really dates this dress, too. It’s just a little large for me, which would put it at a modern size 4-6. Asian-made fashions do sometimes seem to run small but I’m not sure if that was true for garments made decades ago for the U.S. market. There’s no obvious evidence that the dress has been altered. Another plus – it’s in almost perfect condition!
One of the last things I might have expected to find, but that’s what makes sleuthing so much fun! Always surprises; hidden and revealing clues. Stay tuned – you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yes, September often means it’s time to switch out some of the Summer wardrobe for warmer clothing. Traditionally, it was also the time to put away anything white, including accessories. That means I’m looking over my collection of true vintage handbags and selecting a couple that coordinate well with my Autumn fashion choices. Not only does that mean switching out a matching wallet, but other handy purse accessories from back in the day can be included. What savvy dame would forget to equip her handbag with smart and handy accessories? Here are just a few.
It’s so fun to look back into our mothers’ and grandmothers’ handbags to see what they used to carry on a daily basis. These are just a smattering of the interesting items I’ve seen. Mirrors, combs and tiny brushes, lipstick cases, foldable rain hats, key cases and key-rings all came in different sizes, styles and designs. An emery board and an orange stick were usually tucked in somewhere. Smokers also had special accessories – cases, lighters and interesting matchbooks. Little pillboxes were very decorative and pretty. I’ve got a few of those.
Above we see two note pads (with attached pen or pencil), a manicure set, sewing kit, mirror set (with normal and magnifying glasses), and an attractive case for a comb.
The intelligent and fashionable woman is always well-prepared when stepping out, no matter what her mission may be. Efficiency and style – that’s my motto . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.
Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit. The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.
The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage. When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago. The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!
When it starts to get cold, I think of looking at my collection of vintage furs. Beautiful garments of by-gone days – never to be made again, I hope, but worth enjoying while they last. The stylish cape on the left would only be worn during the day by a society matron and usually saved for evening wear. The jacket on the right, however, is much more versatile and looked good over a suit or day – dress back in the day as well as with jeans now.
Just as nature intended to protect their original owners, furs provide great warmth. They’re still fun to admire and wear, but I can’t help remembering the sacrifice of the animals who produced them when I do. We humans who have used the animal kingdom to clothe and feed us for centuries must honor that by becoming humane today.
Hello, Climate Change! The weather has suddenly morphed from sweltering to chilly and I’m pulling out these snuggly cotton flannel pajamas. Nothing beats the comfort and durability of these common Fifties garments. So comforting and warm, and I love the design that Stella wears above!
Yes, I will continue to sleuth, and post new finds and photos of my existing collection of true vintage clothing and accessories. However, a little voice has told me for a long time that the whole mindset behind it is the main thing. It’s not just about how the sleuthing craft leads to great discoveries, but how we mysterious crafters can really change the world we all live in and how we live in it.
HOW? WHY? Let’s look at what optimizing and wearing a true vintage wardrobe accomplishes . . . . .
Are you bored by and disgusted with the style and quality of most wardrobe items available in retail stores and online? Tired of looking like everyone else? We, a few design and tailoring-conscious consumers, can flip the market by avoiding these trashy and cheaply-made products in favor of well-made and beautifully-tailored garments and accessories from years past. Occasionally you may find something that meets these standards among modern items and, of course, they can be included in your wardrobe. Be careful, though. It won’t happen often and may cost you an arm and a leg!
Are you concerned about the environment, the use of fossil fuels and the amount of garbage going into landfills? Most clothing and accessories now seem to be made with synthetic, fossil-based fabrics. They may have some nice properties like stretch or wash-ability, but don’t have the best appearance and don’t tend to last. It’s often hard to repair them, too. Rather than adding to the trash, poisoning the earth, air and wildlife, look for true vintage garments and accessories made from higher-quality vintage materials that are beautiful, comfortable, last a long time and can be repaired when necessary.
Are you an animal welfare activist who wants to live a humane lifestyle? I can hear your thoughts – “high quality vintage clothing is often made of wool, silk, skins, furs, feathers and leather!” Yes, they are and they’re beautiful, too. What could be more loving to animals than to enjoy these old historic garments while they last and offer no support to the current vendors of fur, silk, animal skins and leather? If you want a modern garment, buy faux fur and faux leather. These products get better every year. Go with a special faux silk piece. Wearing a fur coat made in 1950 does no harm to the animals that were killed in order to make it then. Like Native Americans, we can honor their sacrifice by caring for these garments and loving them until they have reached the end of their usefulness and the trade in animal products has been ended for lack of customers. “But what about the example you set?” you say – No one who knows anything about clothing will think that you bought your true vintage fur coat at the mall last year. If someone buys a modern fur because they like your vintage one, well, that’s their look-out and we have to expect people to be responsible for their own choices.
Do you always want to wear the “latest thing” or follow the styles of your friends who shop at retail? OK, go for it. No one is entitled to criticize another’s sense of fashion. However, the people with the most interesting, stylish and impressive wardrobes have a unique style and tend to go for great design, good tailoring and high quality – even in casual, day to day clothes like jeans and t-shirts. Unless you’re shopping bespoke in Paris from your own private tailor, there’s no better place to find clothing like that than among true vintage items.
We are powerful! Our thoughts shape public opinion. Our choices shape the markets and manufacturing decisions. No one shears sheep, makes fur coats or leather shoes if no one is buying them. You can still enjoy these items for decades if you buy true vintage and take care of it while you’re getting used to the idea of letting it go. We’ll have even better alternatives when we need them.
Do you long for a more beautiful world where well-dressed, healthy people walk under trees and among flowering plants or swim in clean oceans in every city or country, breathing clean air and listening to the birds? Do you like the idea of having a great selection of restaurants everywhere which all offer delicious vegan cuisine? Would you feel relieved by knowing that products in stores are all cruelty-free and environmentally responsible? Changing our shopping habits is a GREAT place to start and, what could be more fun, adventurous and satisfying than building your own true vintage style while you’re at it?
Magicvintagespy 