1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1960’S CUSTOM-TAILORED 2-PIECE DRESS, COORDINATING JACKET AND HATS!

Here’s another 3-season dress with known history. That’s always SO wonderful. It was passed on to me by the mother of a friend, who made it herself. It is of a lightweight wool, fully lined and beautifully tailored. The lightweight but lined blue and green jacket is a commercially-made piece which I discovered separately, but is a perfect accompaniment in color, style and era.

With this ensemble or with the skirt suit shown yesterday, an early Sixties cellophane hat would also be a perfect accessory. Nothing looks more like Spring to me, and I think we’re more than ready!

A little heads-up: I’ll be having guests over the next month so, though I will try to post daily, the times may be erratic and I may skip a day or two. But, there’s still lots more in the archives, not to mention possible new evidence, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mid-century Long Formal Dress – Theater Reproduction?

This frock was an unusual find and a bit of a mystery. The sewing notions such as the zipper are from the mid-century but the overall style is undefined. My best guess is that this gown was made for a theater production back in the day. It is not as carefully constructed or designed as garments made for commercial sale or general wear. The only other possibility is that it was made by an inexperienced seamstress. It’s fun to find these kinds of things occasionally, which exercise your sleuthing skills! Back to the “real thing” tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s – early 1960’s Red Velveteen Party Dress for Christmas Holiday Celebrations

A fun little frock while the parties are still free-wheeling with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, music and dancing. You could also bring it out again at St. Valentine’s Day. This dress is a pure home-sewn creation made or commissioned by some gal who was definitely in the party spirit and looking forward to a great time. Some clues date the dress as early as the 1940’s, but I suspect it’s not quite that old. That skirt is definitely styled for dancing, though.

The festive holiday clue is the sequin decoration on the bodice, which makes me think more of the 1950’s. No other clues to the details of the stories that it has to tell, but I’m sure we can invent quite a few . . . .. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Gown, this time in Holiday Red

What beautiful fabric! It is substantial but soft and with tiny machine-embroidered diamond shapes all over, which was apparently a “thing” in some Forties material. This might have been a way of making up for the absence of natural fabrics like silk and many of the notions used to decorate clothing before and after WWII.

The style is very simple and I think, like the dress shown yesterday, that it was custom-made. The pattern wouldn’t have been difficult for a home-based seamstress. The neckline in back is a bit lower, but nothing dramatic. The most difficult aspect of the construction is the piecing below the waist and that’s still no big deal. What I like most about it is that it’s just very pretty and so festive and Christmas-y in that fantastic glossy red. I would have collected it for the yards of gorgeous fabric alone! More of that coming – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage 1940’s Bias – Cut Gown with Beading Decoration

What a wonderful find!! This gown was custom-made, possibly by a home-based seamstress, in this unusual style with 3/4 length sleeves. You can see the waist ties that would be fastened in back to nip the waistline. The bias cut glossy fabric, which gives a really slinky body-con fit is a hold-over from the 1930’s when it was very popular. I love the blue color which looks like a night-time sky and the peekaboo beading that resembles exploding stars. Very appropriate today, when the comet AiATLAS is closest to Earth.

This is another one-of-a-kind, never-to-be-seen-again frock. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

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NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HEY, MOM – I NEED A HALLOWEEN COSTUME! NO WORRIES FOR OUR 1950’S HOMEMAKER . . .

IMG_0966 IMG_0963     She’d just pull out the latest edition of her McCalls Needlework magazine.  And, of course, there is the Christmas Pageant, too . .. . .

I can’t believe the intricacy of these home-sewing DIY patterns.  Women used to do this all the time!

Once when I was a kid, my (I thought) non-sewing grandmother did  whip up a very convincing 1960’s black collarless jacket for me when I wanted to be a Beatle for Halloween.  Who knew?  . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A 1960’S HOME-SEWN SUMMER SCOOTER DRESS

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How cute is this – and, in wonderful condition?!  Nice two-tone probably cotton fabric, with a flippy pleated skirt and button tab decoration at the hip-line.  It was fashioned at home by a seamstress with confidence who made exactly what she wanted, with a perfect fit for her.  It’s a little big on me, but the style makes it super-easy to alter the size.

I can just imagine Ann-Margret in a frock like this one, riding on the back of a scooter in a mid-century movie.  What a treat!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

IT’S SO MUCH FUN!! HOME-SEWN DAY DRESSES FROM THE 1960’S

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More custom-tailored stories coming my way – this cute cotton summer frock practically lets me follow the seamstress’s journey as she made this dress for herself.  It’s so fun to think of a girl or woman, way back in the day, going to the fabric store and finding a pattern she loves – picking the material she wants and using her sewing skills learned in Home Ec class and the dreams in her imagination to create a dress that she’ll love to wear.

Wish Stella were here to model it for me, but if you know anything about sewing, all the details of this dress make it crystal clear.  Although I love finding gorgeous designer frocks from the 1940’s, Fifties and before, a simple homemade garment is one of the sweetest surprises. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .  .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM