THE QUINTESSENTIAL MID-CENTURY SHIRT-DRESS, IN ALL IT’S COUTURE SPLENDOR

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Handmade back in the day by “Rosalie Couturier” – I’ve never seen this common and popular style done so elegantly, by one seamstress.  All the best of beautiful little details and stunning fit are really only found in purely hand-tailored examples.  What a treat it was to find this one!

The fabric is also very special – a rayon or rayon blend that was used in off-the-rack garments only in the 1940’s – 1950’s, if you were lucky.  And the buttons!  I’m over-the-moon on those – heavy, polished and perfect in their iridescence.  Nothing can compare to old shell buttons.  You can see in this photo another example of the phenomenon I mentioned a day or two ago – the belt looks slightly darker, probably because it was never cleaned along with the dress.  Spy-craft!

Just in time for Spring, right out of classic cinema – Mrs. Miniver or June Cleaver would be right at home wearing this frock any old day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE RAYON DAY DRESS FROM THE LATE 1930s TO EARLY 1940s

TRUE VINTAGE RAYON DAY DRESS FROM THE LATE 1930s TO EARLY 1940s

Here’s another lovely shirtwaist dress for a Spring day, this one in rayon.  It could have been custom made or ready-made – no tags or tell-tale details to help me be sure.  In most cases, dating true vintage clothing is not an exact science, but with knowledge and experience can be pretty close. This frock makes me think of something Bonnie, of Bonnie & Clyde, might have worn.

Due to its age and previous history of wear, it did require a bit of rehab despite the wonderful condition.  Buttons had to be replaced and, as I mentioned in a previous post, a “new” belt had to be constructed as the original was missing.  I keep a store of vintage buttons for cases just like as this.  Also, I keep vintage belts that are worn in order that they can be re-covered.  That’s exactly what I did here – as there was lots of extra fabric in the hem allowance, I was able to harvest enough to re-cover a belt without messing up the original hem length.  You can see that the color of the fabric in the belt is slightly darker than that of the dress, but I don’t mind.  Sometimes that is done on purpose to add extra interest.  Also, since covered belts usually would not be laundered along with a dress (since their insides are like cardboard), the dress fabric might fade a bit more over time.  So, this un-faded piece of fabric from the interior of the hem (never exposed to sun) ends up being a perfect authentic-looking touch!!

To me, nothing says “Spring” more than these pastel printed dresses in breezy styles.  The lingerie that must go with them, because of their sheerness, just adds to the package.

When I find one of these I really jump for joy! It’s just one thrill after another because, you just never know .. . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY BELTED SHIRTWAIST DRESS FROM THE 1950’S

A PRETTY BELTED SHIRTWAIST DRESS FROM THE 1950'S     This conservative little style is very sweet, no?

It is made of a pure cotton material, I would guess, and was probably custom tailored (from looking at the details).  I have at least one more dress which has cross-stitch embroidery on it but, to tell the truth, many true vintage dresses that were commercially made have lovely detail, too. And, of course, it could have been added later by the owner.

I also really love skinny, fabric-covered belts on dresses – a common feature on dresses made at this time. As I’ve mentioned before, I’ll sometimes shorten an extra-long hem and make a covered belt from the extra fabric when an original belt is missing.

These dresses look nice with a cardigan sweater or a shawl, so they can go from Spring into Fall with ease. They were standard daytime wear for just about everybody back in the day. It’s so great to see how the classic styles remain elegant and wearable for decades.

And, because fabrics and construction were so well done and women took good care of their clothing, I continue to find them. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE VICTORIAN/PRAIRIE-STYLE GOWN FROM THE ’60’S

TRUE VINTAGE VICTORIAN/PRAIRIE-STYLE GOWN FROM THE '60'S

Still for cooler weather, but a pretty, peachy color.  It’s hard for me to classify this dress. It’s kind of a hybrid style with an unclear purpose. Part Boho prairie, part Victorian lady, part Prom dress, part hostess gown. Got me!

The prairie-style and long Victorian/Edwardian-style dresses became really popular again in the late Sixties and early Seventies; plus the construction and materials give lots of clues to it’s original era.

Made of a heavy nylon-feeling fabric and has an embroidered makers’ tag. Never seen anything quite like it, but I was intrigued.

Could even be a Spring party dress! Good idea . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:   MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WE’RE GEARING UP FOR ST. PATRICK’S DAY – START WITH TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S & 1950’S LINGERIE

WE'RE GEARING UP FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY - START WITH 1940'S & 1950'S LINGERIE

Believe it or not, I do not have a single GREEN slip that would be suitable for my St. Paddy’s Day dresses! Two green rayon beauties in my closet from the 1930’s are way too long and full . . . . . . .

So, here are some blue-green pretties from the Forties & Fifties that might suit. If they’re not showing through, I don’t think any one would really mind, do you?  Once the dress is off . . . . . . . . . . .

Again, we have beautiful fabric, contrasting embroidery and some applique’. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. . . .. . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1950s WIGGLE DRESS BY A WELL-KNOWN MID-CENTURY DESIGNER OF CALIFORNIA

TRUE VINTAGE 1950s WIGGLE DRESS BY EVE LE COQ OF CALIFORNIA FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY

Here’s a line-up of wool dresses from the 1960s and 1950s, lightweight and classic enough to wear in some parts of the world in three seasons of the year.  Although I’m highlighting the second from the left, I’ll describe them all to start.

On the far left, a mid-weight jumper from the mid – late 1960s in a brown tweed.  Can’t recall the maker, but made in the U.S.  The bodice is lined and it is intended to be worn as a sleeveless dress or with a blouse underneath – your choice.  In the cold weather I’d probably want the blouse, but some people like their arms bare even in winter and that was a popular style then.  A cardigan sweater over would work, too.  Although it didn’t come with its own little jacket, sometimes sleeveless dresses did.  Great style for school or office.

Third in line is a straight, belted shift in heather blue by Pendleton.  They’ve been making quality wool clothing for decades and it is always classic.  This one from the late ’60s can also be worn alone or will a blouse or turtleneck.  Also perfect for school or work.  Some women would put this on as a day dress for shopping, meetings, etc.

On the far right is a wiggle sheath from the late ’50s.  Also a U.S. maker.  It is lined around the upper bodice and neck and is designed to be worn sleeveless.  It’s a simple, un-decorated design but would look best in the evening or at an after-work party or dinner.  It could have gone to work if dressed down a bit with a sweater or jacket.

Now for our star of the day – Are you looking for ideas about what to wear on St. Paddy’s Day?  Look no further.  This is a smart, figure-enhancing dress that is demure enough for any setting and also sophisticated enough for any.  It all depends on your accessories. In a lovely kelly/emerald green, it’s also a nice transition color into Spring.  Eve Le Coq of California produced lovely dresses – very chic.

It’s not been unusual for me to encounter these kinds of wool frocks at various places in my searches.  If you find yourself in a store, they are often marked down at this time of year.  Don’t let wool fabric discourage you – as long as you’ve got a breathable (well-ventilated) storage bag for moth season and a clothing brush, it’s easy to care for and can be dry-cleaned at home if there are no serious stains.  Very versatile, very vintage and worth the investment.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PERFECT TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S PARTY DRESS IN ICY MINT GREEN

PERFECT TRUE VINTAGE 1950s  PARTY DRESS FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY

Looking for a St. Paddy’s frock?   Here we go again – a lovely pouf dress from the 1950s of acetate rayon and chiffon, in minty sherbet green this time.   I love this for Spring, with the sheer 3/4 sleeves and the jewel neckline.  Look at that deep hem in the overskirt!

This is a below-the-knee formal dress that could also be worn to a Prom, dinner, dance or any formal event that doesn’t require a full-length skirt.  ‘It would also be lovely worn in a wedding by attendants or by a bride who didn’t want to wear the typical white or ivory. Many ’50’s brides wore gowns of this length.

The sheer chiffon covers the rayon dress underneath and there is a sewn-in crinoline of netting.  I don’t believe that there are any tags remaining but I suspect that it was commercially-made.  However, it’s not always certain – many seamstresses in business or at home were VERY skilled.

Finding dresses like this is always magical.  Where was it first worn?  Who kept it for decades and why was it so special?  You just never know . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MY MOST INSPIRING TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S HEELS FOR SPRING

MY MOST INSPIRING 1950'S - EARLY SIXTIES HEELS FOR ST. PATRICK'S DAY

These are just so pretty and Spring-y that they’re my choice for this holiday. With embroidered flowers and a good dose of green, they stand above plain colors today.

I love the fact that they’re in such good condition – it’s always a treat to see the names of small, privately-owned shoe stores printed inside, as was often done in the mid-century. This was true of clothing, hats and purses, too.

Pretty shoes like this just don’t seem to be made anymore. The vintage-style substitutes just don’t make the grade. And, of course, these are 100% leather excepting for the fabric uppers.

So, trip off to a party or the light fantastic just like a fairie . … . . . . . . . … .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BEAUTIFUL MID-CENTURY HAT IN EMERALD GREEN – TRUE VINTAGE MADE IN FRANCE

IMG_1508Just recently, I’ve encountered a string of true vintage accessory items.  Here’s one of the cutest . . . . .

A tiny toque style hat that sits on top of the head – not quite a Forties doll hat, but almost.  Perhaps closer to a Sixties pillbox style, but not quite that, either. Good guess that it may come from the 1950’s.

Don’t know what they would have called this design in France, but we can be sure that it was on the leading edge of fashion when it was made, because the French always have been.

Emerald green wool felt, with a grosgrain ribbon and bow detail.  A simple style that packs a punch.  Always fun for St. Patrick’s Day, but this gorgeous color is such a beautiful accent anytime – especially when it enhances the coloring of the wearer to perfection . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1960S – ’70s GREEN FLORAL PRINT HAWAIIAN DRESS

TRUE VINTAGE 1960S - '70s GREEN FLORAL PRINT HAWAIIAN DRESS

What’s special about this find?  Aside from being about 40 years old, it is made in Hawaii – which used to mean beautiful, quality cottons and rayons and lovely workmanship.  This one doesn’t disappoint.  It has a back zipper with a small bow trim there. The neckline has piping around it and the heavy cotton material drapes nicely.  As usual, the print and color saturation are wonderful in these fabrics.

A straight, mu-mu style is very versatile and flattering to most figures.

Are you planning to attend or host some casual event this weekend, or just a laid-back day at home?  In keeping with the green spirit of this St. Patrick’s holiday, I suggest a dress like this one.  As long as it’s warm enough where you are, a dress like this can be worn almost anywhere, to do anything.  It’s even possible to dress it up with jewelry, shoes and bag.

Vintage made in Hawaii has always been so distinctive – it’s a special look all its own.  It does tend to follow style trends a bit, but some of the classic looks don’t change. I’ll be showing others that are older, too.  These have been so popular over the years that they sometimes turn up in my searches and I’m always thrilled to find them.  Just putting one on takes me to an exotic time in my mind and then, well you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM