1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Let’s Go to the Formal Dance 1953 – Here’s the True Vintage Prom Dress, Pretty in Pink

It’s the real deal, which belonged to a family member. With ruching on the bodice and tulle overall it looks confining but the full skirt and midi-length let her rock around the clock to her heart’s content. This was an off-the-rack confection to make her special day perfect. It was probably the Prom, but could easily have been a for a St. Valentine’s Day event. A shawl or little bolero jacket would have carried her through to midnight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Another Frothy 1950’s – Early 1960’s Formal Dress

I’ll keep jumping around here a bit between formal and special occasion dresses and wedding costumes. In some cases there’s such an overlap that the archives are mixed. This very pale green frock is notable for the unusual bodice treatment which makes it look like an earlier version from this time frame. Look how the sheer fabric is ruched around the neckline and makes cap sleeves. The huge front bow is very Fifties.

However, some of the more conservative styles or those targeting younger buyers tend to look older than their more modern counterparts even when they were made at the same time. Otherwise, the tailoring and general style puts it right in the Post-war/Kennedy era time frame. It all adds to the mystery.

This dress is just too sweet for words and, I’d guess, was designed for teenagers. Might have been a Prom dress or an early ’50’s party dress. It could even have been worn by a bridesmaid. Although it might have been worn in the winter, looks to me like it’s definitely for Spring. Back to the mid-century weddings tomorrow, if that’s your fave. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Another Mid-Century Party Frock, This One in Spring Green

Stylistically, almost identical to the one shown a couple of days ago excepting that this one has a different tailoring on the bodice. When sleuthing, it’s been so much fun to find dresses of this type and to notice that they are very individual, even though they come from the same time and the same category. Again, we’ve got the sheer elbow-length sleeves, so I would say that this dress comes from the identical 1950’s – early 1960’s decade.

What a perfect color for this time of year – the pastels always are ready to come out in force after New Year’s Day. Again, an early Prom dress?; possibly. Possibly was worn as part of a bridal party. Bridesmaid, Maid of Honor or maybe even the bride. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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True Vintage 1940’s – early 1960’s Red Velveteen Party Dress for Christmas Holiday Celebrations

A fun little frock while the parties are still free-wheeling with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, music and dancing. You could also bring it out again at St. Valentine’s Day. This dress is a pure home-sewn creation made or commissioned by some gal who was definitely in the party spirit and looking forward to a great time. Some clues date the dress as early as the 1940’s, but I suspect it’s not quite that old. That skirt is definitely styled for dancing, though.

The festive holiday clue is the sequin decoration on the bodice, which makes me think more of the 1950’s. No other clues to the details of the stories that it has to tell, but I’m sure we can invent quite a few . . . .. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Home-Sewn 1940’s Wartime Party Dress

A simple frock, probably made while times were lean and rationing had been imposed on the markets. The fabric is heavy – almost like taffeta but not that real deal. Probably some kind of rayon or acetate. The little splurge is the velveteen neckline, but during WWII any dress like this for an average gal was probably a splurge.

Even on a garment this modest, I love to discover the tailoring features that make it unique. In addition to the neckline trim, notice the little fold-overs that accent the shoulders. Shaping makes the bodice and waist trim and produces the full circle skirt. A deep hem allowance is also a luxury on a dress like this since it adds the option of adding length, adds a little weight to help the skirt sway and just makes the dress look like a more expensive garment.

I think it was made for a teen or a very tiny woman, but who knows the real story. Might even have been a Prom dress – good style for Swing dancing ad Jitterbug. What a fun find! Stay tuned for more knee length and midi cocktail frocks as well as full length gowns . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Festive 1960’s Sweet Sixteen Formal Dress for the Holidays

Another “love that red” frock. I believe that his formal dress was made for a teenager in the 1960’s, when “Sweet Sixteen” celebrations were still a popular family event. Just my fantasy story – who knows. It’s a youthful but sophisticated style in a tiny size that would have been appropriate when age 16 was considered to be the boundary between childhood and young adulthood. Something Barbie dolls would have worn back in the day.

Velveteen bodice with beading trim, a wasp waistline and a fitted jacquard weave straight skirt. It goes from formal parties for the Christmas season through to Valentines Day. Modest scooped neckline front and back. So very early Sixties and more to come. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY LITTLE PINK PUMPS

Maybe Peggy Sue wore these to the Prom. Entirely possible – Life Stride brand shoes were mid-priced and available at shoe stores in town centers where everybody shopped in mid-century America. A very popular brand; they often sold purses to match the shoes. This was a big deal for women in the 1950’s and early 1960’s and tons of them were sold. Looks like the company, in some form, is still operating. If you shop Walmart, take a look there but I doubt you’ll find anything nearly as wonderful as these, and certainly not with the history . . .. . . . .

Let me know if you have any Life Stride stories. I’d love to have them for the archives and stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A Pretty 1960’s – ’70’s Party Dress by Miss Elliette of California

I pulled this little beauty out of the archives to decide whether she gets a permanent place in the closet or the chopping block . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The 1970’s was not a banner decade for high quality fashion, in my opinion, but this is a lovely example of the mid-priced garments available then so worth collecting. It’s nicely designed and tailored with gathers at the neckline, knife pleating and piping finish at the neck and wrists; a flattering style with well-done tailoring details and features that were popular in some of the better dresses. Of course, a full matching lining in the body is essential.

Alas, it’s not a perfect fit nor the best color for me so it’s off to eBay. Sometimes, spycraft must be ruthless. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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SAPPHIRE BLUE AND SATIN, TOO . . . . . . . . .

This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.

The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM