Category Archives: shirtwaist

MORE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DAY DRESSES (& ACCESSORIES)

Made from cotton, poly and rayon – these dresses from the pre- and post-war years of the 1940’s tell a fashion history of what was happening during the decade. In the late 1930’s and first 2 years of the 1940’s the war was still fomenting in Europe and Americans didn’t feel especially impacted by this. We had not joined the fight yet and everything at home was ticking along as usual, with fun movie entertainment, jitterbug dancing and jazz. Casual cotton dresses were available, as well as comfy cotton slips. A Western-wear travel fad breezed through the fashion world and sunglasses became more and more common accessories. Cat-eye glasses were called Harlequin glasses then but a round or square lens with heavy plastic frames was the most common until the 1950’s. (Of course, the glasses case in the second picture is retro 1960’s.)

While the reality of war was settling in, synthetic poly fabrics and some rayon took the place of cotton, silk and wool. During rationing, shirtwaist dresses were still the classic standard but hemlines inched up, sleeves got shorter, details and pretty decoration decreased and styles changed, with more sheath dresses being seen. Some of these things changed back after the war but fashion always moves forward. More 1940’s fashion tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1980’S DOES 1940’S DRESSES

As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.

The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!

I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1960’S DAY DRESSES

The very early 1960’s, Kennedy era was a time for ladies’ dresses to begin a shift in style. We started off with wasp waists, shirtwaist dresses and full skirts . Cotton and cotton blend shirtwaist dresses were still the day dress uniform for most middle-income women. But, also popular at that time for slightly dressier styles was a slinky knit fabric that was probably a poly/acetate blend. I remember older relatives wearing some of these, which they had probably owned for years. Many of the slinky knit dresses had rhinestone buttons. Great-grandma styles. The first 4 photos above are examples of these two types.

After that, sheath styles and fun details like this floral embroidery above started to make an appearance. This pink dress may have been home-tailored. The crafty, homemade trend that had taken root during WWII was still very strong, even though families had more prosperity in the 1950’s.

My internet connection or the blog host software has limited the number of photos I can add to my posts, so I am focusing on narrower topics and timelines now. Part of the issue for me is that I have so many photos in my archives that I just can’t squeeze them all in. Possibly better for you, my readers and followers, to see these wonderful garments in more detail. I will be continuing with dresses from the 1960’s because there were so many changes during that decade and it can take several posts to cover them all. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S DRESSES FOR EVERYDAY

Wasp waists, circle skirts and cap sleeves – 3 style features which are predominant on 1950’s frocks, though many other elements of design appear. The tiny waistline is probably the most frequently seen feature of a Fifties dress. As popular as the synthetic fabrics had become, 100% cotton material was queen of everyday dresses and especially for plaids and stripes which could be woven right into the cloth. Prints were still very evident, such as the blue and aqua shirtdress above, with a cute Paris, France motif (special to me because it belonged to a family member). A variation of the open-toe, low-heel sandal shown yesterday would have gone very well with these dresses, too. Colorful dresses called for fun and affordable costume jewelry, which abounded in the ’50’s. Made from pot metal, glass and plastic, every gal could afford a little bling with every outfit. Natural materials were sometimes used, too. Our mid-century gal who returned from Hawaii a few days ago, might have brought home a pair of souvenir earrings made from seeds and shells.

Decorative detailing was still a big deal, whether the dress was a day dress or something more special. Ric rac and embroidery were everywhere. The intricate cut-out design and lacing on the neckline above, though probably done by machine, is a very pretty touch on a flirty frock. Fabric-covered belts were the most common way of cinching a waistline.

Sticking with casual dresses, we’ll head into the early 1960’s tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

6 PRETTY TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S DRESSES WITH ’80’S DOES ’40’S WEDGE-HEEL SANDALS

A knee-length synthetic (probably acetate blend) coral red frock from the early 1940’s has augmented shoulders, a straight cut and a fabric-covered belt with some glass beads to dress it up. In the post-war Forties, hemlines were able to come down again and skirts became fuller. The knee-length wartime styles were able to resume their previous midi-length luxury. Rayons and polyester synthetics continued their popularity because of their availability, lovely drape and acceptance of color dyes. During the early recovery from the war, some natural fabrics and detail items were still not fully stocked in dressmaking supplies.

The ever-popular shirtwaist style has never left the fashion scene but became more modern, with atomic prints, and more sophisticated design in the later ’40’s after women had stepped into more visible roles in society with their wartime efforts. When the majority of the trauma and restrictions were finally past, this tea-length floral frock is an example of a more relaxed, aristocratic style as the culture looked forward to the more prosperous 1950’s.

With day-dresses to slacks, I love wedgie sandals and these Eighties does Forties versions did not disappoint me. Their sleek leather sling-back style goes well with almost everything and the 2″ heel gives lift along with walkability. This design carried on into the 1950’s and would look great with the dresses I’ll post tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Early 1960’s Pleats! A Semi-dressy Pleated Skirt on a Wasp Waist Party Dress

Pleats have been popular fashion for centuries (think Scotsmen’s kilts!) but they seem to have trendy moments once or twice a decade. The early 1960’s was one of those times. We’ve also got the repeatedly ever-popular shirtdress style and the lace overlay, which were also mega-popular in the Kennedy era. The unique feature of this frock is the contrasting color underneath the lace bodice and sheer fabric of the skirt. We’ve got a dark robin’s egg blue hue over a rosy lavender color that gives us a light magenta tint. You can see a bit of the under-skirt liner peeking out below the hemline. So unexpected! I’ve found only one other dress of that time that did this lace overlay color play, so it was a fad to a small extent.

Sheer over opaque again. That will never stop, but every few years produce a very different look, even if some features remain the same. Staying in the ’60’s but with very unique designs coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

2 MOD KNIT DRESSES FROM THE SIXTIES – EARLY SEVENTIES FEEL A LOT DIFFERENT FROM YESTERDAY’S!

IMG_3945.JPG

Still  modest, but a lot more casual and friendly-looking.  Fun everyday wear for when I want a warmer dress (like now!)  My, my – the chilly winds they are a-blowin’.  That’s one good thing about the older acrylic knits.  They’re not as heavy as a sweater but they are warm.

Good color combos – just right for Autumn and I’m happy with the long sleeves and the original belts – not so easy to find.  I’ll be wearing them soon with opaque tights and boots, in a late Sixties Carnaby Street mood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OPENING ANOTHER JACKPOT! HERE S A 1940’S – 1950’S SHIRTWAIST DAY DRESS WITH GREAT DETAILS

DSC00740

How neat!  Classic mid-century styling by Renee Originals with excellent tailoring and hardly any sign of wear.  I just love old frocks that testify to the way that women used to value and preserve their clothing; especially the favorites!

The fabric may be a cotton/rayon blend.  It’s of a medium weight and printed in a checkerboard floral pattern – fall-ish colors with asters or Gerber daisies.  The buttons are black, faceted to look like jet, and there is ric-rac trim on the bodice and skirt.

I’m in love!  Of course, this is an Autumn to Winter dress although temperatures this year would let me wear it now.  I think I’ll save it for the season.  You’ll probably see it, along with other recent finds, modeled properly by one of the working “girls” whenever I get back to Headquarters.  We’re on a roll here, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S WARTIME HOUSE DRESS WAS A WONDERFUL SURPRISE FIND!

IMG_3929

Just right for Autumn, these dark tones are unusual and attractive.  The fabric wasn’t expensive, but is distinctive with a slightly nubby stripe woven in.  Take a zoom-in look.  A very practical style, like the women of that day.

The buttons add some interest with silver rims and extras trimming the collar.  That’s a smart place to put an eye-catching touch to the design with additional specialty buttons which would be hard to find.  A lost button would have a ready replacement.

I’ll love this frock for a long time.  As much as finding dressy, elegant and off-beat outfits thrills me, these more everyday, easy-wear items are still a favorite.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG;  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

 

ANOTHER COTTON DAY – DRESS! TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S SHIRTWAIST IN A VERSATILE MOCHA HUE

ANOTHER MOCHA DRESS! TRUE VINTAGE 1950'S SHIRTWAIST

As you now know, I have a number of frocks in this style but this one is special – because I found it during my trip to New Orleans.  It’s very cute on and comes with sentimental value because I LOVE New Orleans and hadn’t been there in a long time.

This day-dress is made of a lovely soft cotton (worn many times) in mocha with a coffee-colored print design.  Just the right shade for early Autumn days.  As is common with some of the best garments, this one’s fabric-covered belt has a matching-color plastic buckle.  It’s always interesting when buckles and buttons are dyed to match the fabric.

The clothing in New Orleans, I found, has fabulous stories associated with it and many of the shopkeepers can tell you some!  The garments always seem to come from interesting people living in interesting places and with fascinating histories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM