TRUE VINTAGE 1940’s FORMAL DRESSES, PLUS A DRESSY 1930’s CLUTCH PURSE

Beautiful, glossy fabrics – most of them synthetics – and lovely designs. I adore them all, but especially the first one. Let’s look at them one by one.

The first gown has a dark green velvet bodice, trimmed with the same pale green satin fabric that the skirt is made from. So flattering and luxurious. The bright red dress is a more conservative style, but still gorgeous. It’s made of an interesting fabric type which I’ve seen in other 1940’s dresses – it has a satin finish but with tiny black diamonds machine-embroidered all over. I suspect that this fabric, though lovely, was a more economical one.

The blue dress was tailor-made by hand. It is sewn from a bias-cut rayon which gives it that wonderful, drapey fit. The atomic/stellar cut-outs surrounded by seed beads were all done by handwork. I love the cut of the sleeves and the way the bustline and waistline are finished. That back tie belt gives it a really wasp-waist fit.

Finally, the black velvet two-piece dress is an entirely different design. Very proper and buttoned-up in velvet and crocheted lace, with rhinestone-center buttons.

Each of these gowns was a surprising and fabulous find. It’s rare to find 1940’s formal garments in the first place, and to find them in near-perfect condition is almost unheard of. The best bet is if they can be acquired from the original owner, or their estate. This is always a more informative clue when starting any investigation.

I’ve re-opened the 1940’s archives and am finding myself doing a deep dive there. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DETOUR! 1950’S DRESSIER FROCKS BEFORE WE MOVE TO THE SIXTIES

I just couldn’t head into the 1960’s without a display of some of the prettiest dressy frocks from the 1950’s and the fabulous nylon lingerie slips that might have been worn underneath. The first two pictured also have interesting remodeling stories.

First is a beautiful, heavy polished cotton dress from the early 1950’s or, perhaps, the late 1940’s. It is absolutely gorgeous and falls to tea length. Polished cotton was a favorite fabric during the mid-century, before 1965 or so. As often happens, this frock had lost it’s belt somewhere along the way so I took some fabric from the generous hem and covered a skinny one by hand.

The mocha dress with the interesting shoulder line was a more ambitious remodel but still done entirely by hand. This wonderful wiggle dress is made of rayon fabric which looks like silk shantung. It originally had an upper bodice made of sheer fabric with cap sleeves. Piping finished the sleeves and round neckline. This design feature was such a popular one in the late ’40’s and early ’50’s but, alas, the sheer fabric had several holes that didn’t have a mending or patching option that I thought would do justice to the style. So, I chose to remove the upper bodice and secure the cut edges underneath. The back zipper didn’t have to be changed because it ended where a keyhole opening used to be at the back. I am very happy with the result, though I hate to change original designs.

The RED party frock is a style that endured at least from the mid-1940’s until the early 1960’s. It’s a rayon fabric with midi hemline, 3/4 sleeves and a boat neckline – all of which I love. You can see how deep the hem is and, of course, the bodice and skirt are fully lined.

Finally, the red jacquard cheongsam-style sheath is a fashion that became quite popular in the Fifties and Sixties, probably a carry-over from WWII when Asian culture became better known in the West and the female spy, Mata Hari, became legend. It carries on the wiggle cut and cap sleeves which were common then. Overall, this was a decade of very flattering and well-made ladies’ garments.

We finish off with a photo of luxurious nylon slips from the 1950’s, with their fabulous fabric and pretty decoration in some of the luscious colors that were available. We WILL do 1960’s dresses tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BEAUTIFUL KENNEDY ERA SKIRT SUIT IN BOUCLE’ WOOL

It’s not designer, but still worthy of any gal who loved Jacqueline Kennedy’s elegant fashion style. A straight below-the-kneecap skirt and boxy short jacket say early 1960’s and Coco Chanel-style in a big way. You can’t see the loopy boucle’ weave in this photo. It was very popular in the early Sixties – I’ve found several, all in pastel colors.

The tailoring is remarkably good, too. In this case, you can see the fabric-covered buttons down the front and at each cuff. The little slash pockets that are finished off with binding are meant to be ornamental and add a lot to the design, even if they aren’t practical. Bracelet-length sleeves let you show off a charm bracelet, pretty watch or any other statement piece. Even a slim gold bracelet of fine quality is a statement piece, and perfect with an outfit of this kind.

One of the unique features of these suits is how the necklines are treated. I have a pink example with a rounded Peter Pan style collar. A yellow one I’ve found has a crew-style neckline with a slim mink collar. This example has an attached piece that buttons in place and forms the matching blue neckline filler. The wool fabric is perfect for late Winter and early Spring. More pastel wool tomorrow, and hats! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Late 1970’s – 1980’s Prom Dress and Heels

Again, a bow at the waistline and sheer fabric over opaque. But, the flavor has changed – big, bold Eighties does Forties floral print and in-your-face colors. Also, the sequins and beads sprinkled on the bodice looks like Eighties and Nineties, rather than the mid-century style. The pumps are a Sixties throwback. This gown is much more showy than the tailored, sophisticated styles of the Fifties and early Sixties and we’re still about 10 years away from the glitzy power frocks of the Dynasty decade.

Still pretty and girly, though not quite as “sweet”, in spite of all the pink underneath. It’s so interesting to see how clues and evidence overlap from year to year. Stay tuned for the file containing mid-century day-wear suits, dresses and accessories as Winter moves toward Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Mod Floral Prom Formal from the Mid- Late 1960’s

Flower Power! A little Victorian flavor here, too, which began to show up in the late Sixties. This carried over into the Prairie styles of the late Sixties and early Seventies, several of which I showed a few days ago. At that time, many were worn to the Prom. Lots of changes were happening in history and culture during this time and fashions morphed at lightening speed.

Of course, Mod flowers, empire waistline, gathered sleeves and retro ruffles plus a novel style element that showed up then and disappeared pretty quickly – big tall cuffs with lots of buttons. Many blouses and dresses were made with these, as well as long pointy collars, which had their own version on 1970’s shirts a few years later.

Although it’s a mangled mash of styles, it’s really cute and this was a time for CUTE clothing. It was a fad for a fairly short time. Sophisticated fashion took a back seat for a while. I haven’t seen too many of these during my investigations, so this one was a very fun find. Stay tuned for going ahead to the 1980’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Mod-style Special Event Long Dress from the Early 1960’s

From just a year or two later, compared to the frock shown yesterday, look how different the style is! This dress would have been made in 1962 or 1963, when the blue plus green craze was all over the marketplace – in clothing and home fashions. It was a thrilling find because I know it’s history since I got it from the seamstress who made it. She regularly tailored dresses to wear to faculty events at a university.

Medium-weight synthetic fabric, with a brocade-look weave. It just says Spring, and the beginnings of Mod. Sleek and slim, rather than fussy or poufy. A new kind of feminine style. We’ll be in totally different territory again tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Pretty Mint Green Semi-formal Dress from the early 1960’s

Bows and bell-shaped skirts were popular in the early ’60’s, as well as some elbow-length sleeves. In this picture I have taken down the hem to the correct length for someone as tall as Stella. It would have been below-the-knee on the original owner. So very early ’60’s. I can see a vintage Barbie doll in this costume.

These gorgeous dresses I’ve been showing all have looked similar, but each has it’s own unique details and style. We’re staying in the Sixties for the next couple of days, but the styles become very different. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

For a Far Dressier Occasion, a Sapphire Blue Fur-trimmed Frock from the Mid-century

I’ll write up my opinion below, but first a focus on the dress. Because of the sizing, I am guessing that this garment was made for a teen – or possibly for a very small woman with very little bosom. Stella’s figure fills it up too much in front, which is why the waist seam and hemline are higher than in the back. The fabric is a medium-weight brocade-look that would be appropriate for Winter or very early Spring weather. The fur is probably rabbit, but I can’t swear to that. I’d date it in the 1950’s but it could possibly have been from the very early 1960’s when that was still a sign of luxury. Pretty color, pretty dress BUT . . . . . . . . .

As an animal rights activist, I am not at all in favor of this dress but as a fashion historian, it deserves a place in the line-up. Fur trimmings on dresses, suits and coats were very popular up into early 1960’s and continued to be seen frequently on coats almost to the present. Fortunately, the fur trade has diminished in the last 10 years or so, especially in Western countries, but it’s still a big problem. Wool, cashmere, snake, lizard, eel skins and silk remain popular and they are also animal products which sometimes or always cause the death of the animals. In every case, they cause suffering and don’t belong in human clothing, in my opinion. We now have excellent replacements for them, both in appearance and performance, so no excuses. These alternatives are often still expensive, but let’s support them and they will become less and less so.

That’s the end of fur-trimmed dresses for now so stay tuned for more pretty party frocks . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Golden Dream – A True Vintage early 1960’s Classic Spring Formal Dress

Here’s a rare and beautiful example of a sophisticated sheath style from the Kennedy Era. So flattering. This gown was not headed to the Prom but to a more conservative and formal event, such as an elegant State Dinner, a university Gala or perhaps a play or concert in the city. I love the decoration on the bodice and elbow-length sleeves – not over-done but very pretty and eye-catching.

Although it’s made in the newer, sleeker style, we still see the sheer fabric over opaque material that has been a feature of many, if not most, formal dresses during the 1950’s – ’60s decade. But, keep eyes open. Fashion changes FAST going forward and upcoming posts will show examples of this. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Sweet True Vintage Formal from the 1960’s

I showed this frock a few months ago, but it deserves a place in this 1960’s line-up and gets us back to formal dresses. See the jacquard weave fabric repeated, the bows and a sash. Formals are really changing shape as we move into the ’60’s, with many of them having a sheath shape, though the full skirts and wasp waistlines are still around, too. This could have been a simple Prom dress, probably at a smaller school, but might have gone to any event calling for a long gown. Black and white knows no season and can truly span the calendar – just as fashionable as a pastel for Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM