Category Archives: 1960

UNIQUE AND NON-TRADITIONAL MID-CENTURY 2-PIECE COCKTAIL DRESS

Late 1950’s – early 1960’s cocktail/dinner 2-piece dress in a surprising cadet blue color. How could I not have collected this one? It’s not eccentric at all, but I love the original and surprising vibe when a black frock would have been expected. In a substantial knit fabric and with a flattering pencil/wiggle cut that accentuates the figure but is also very “proper”. It ticks all the boxes for lower to mid-priced elegance. No jewelry needed excepting some stud earrings and perhaps a cocktail ring.

Many well-dressed women during the Kennedy Era could have worn this ensemble with confidence. While not a garment for those socializing in the “highest circles”, an average gal might have gathered some lingering looks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Festive 1960’s Sweet Sixteen Formal Dress for the Holidays

Another “love that red” frock. I believe that his formal dress was made for a teenager in the 1960’s, when “Sweet Sixteen” celebrations were still a popular family event. Just my fantasy story – who knows. It’s a youthful but sophisticated style in a tiny size that would have been appropriate when age 16 was considered to be the boundary between childhood and young adulthood. Something Barbie dolls would have worn back in the day.

Velveteen bodice with beading trim, a wasp waistline and a fitted jacquard weave straight skirt. It goes from formal parties for the Christmas season through to Valentines Day. Modest scooped neckline front and back. So very early Sixties and more to come. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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OUR GRANDMOTHERS’ MID-CENTURY HOLIDAY AND HOSTESS KITCHEN APRONS

These are just 3 out of my collection of lovely kitchen aprons, but perhaps a bit more interesting and seasonal than others I have, which are more generic, like a cotton gingham check without any specific theme. Many aprons, like the first one here, were specifically themed for a particular holiday or fashion era. It’s a great example, with bright color and a novelty print for Thanksgiving. Although it’s definitely trendy and targeted, it is also at least somewhat practical because of the machine-washable fabric, wraparound style, secure ties and big pocket. It could actually do the job of keeping the cook’s skirt clean. The most useful styles also covered the bodice.

The usefulness is really important, but I love the novelty print. It’s always good to play the hostess in something that also makes people smile. The two aprons following are entirely different in their purpose. These are made from a much more delicate fabric and would be best washed by hand, both because of their delicacy and because they are hand-painted. They were made for and gifted to my grandmother by a relative who at least did the painting herself, if not the sewing job. Gifts like this were common in her day, and cherished. These aprons were made not so much to protect clothing as to be pretty. Grandma might have worn them when she had her friends in for tea or a card game, maybe even for hosting an at-home cocktail party. The messy part of the hostess job would have already been done when she made the cake or other refreshments beforehand.

Aprons were much more commonly worn in decades past and were a significant part of a woman’s household wardrobe, like housedresses worn on cleaning day. Most women’s (especially married women’s) lives were organized around a routine of household duties throughout the week and each one usually required a different kind of outfit – one for cooking, one cleaning, one for tending plants, one for doing the weekly shopping. Special accessories to these outfits were needed for certain jobs, such as gloves of various kinds, hats of various kinds, nursing bras and pads to protect clothing from breast milk and burping babies. Housewives were trained to be very practical and were rewarded by Society for a job well-done. The home was their workplace and the role defined them, so their household wardrobe had a central place in their lives. For better or for worse, that was the way it was. Do we want that again? Think about it and keep your eyes on the clues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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SNUGGLEY TRUE VINTAGE SLEEPWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR 1950’S – 1970’S

Everybody seems to love red, especially this time of year. It’s certainly a color which can make us feel warmer, which is what we’re beginning to need in a big way now. On the left is a favorite 1950’s pajama set of mine, woven 100% cotton with little fans printed all over. The print would make you think that these must be women’s PJ’s but actually these are a large size boys’! Take a look at the direction of the button closure.

Although I have lots of women’s PJ’s and gowns, my men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are really special. Classic unisex PJ style (though, often, men’s have a fly), but the best feature is that the men’s garments are very sometimes printed with wonderful medallion prints or novelty prints like the one above. A large (16 – 18) vintage boys’ size will fit me well – I wear a ladies 4. A men’s small will usually do OK or can be easily altered. Women’s PJ’s are most often of a solid color nylon or silk or a fine cotton printed with small flowers, decorated with lace or other trim. Really beautiful and comfy, but sometimes a little boring.

However, true warmth comes from robes, and this is where the women’s garments shine. They are more often found in warm fabrics such as plush, chenille and quilting. Women traditionally spent more time at home than men did so ladies’ true vintage robes and dressing gowns are built to be worn for several hours, rather than just after getting out of the bath or shower. Although men’s vintage robes sometimes have nice prints, women’s are more often embellished with embroidery, trim and buttons. Each decade had it’s typical style and popular fabric but the general rules seem to apply to sleepwear and robes from all the decades from the late 1800’s to the present day.

My 1970’s robe above is certainly worthy of Mrs. Claus as she makes breakfast for the elves. (Sorry, but traditional folklore and myths tend to be very sexist.) It’s by Vanity Fair, a company which has made women’s at-home styles and lingerie for decades. I love the pretty style, but the long bell sleeves are very impractical in the kitchen and I don’t think the mid-priced market for this item targeted women who had hired “help” at home. That can be an inherent problem with true vintage fashions – occasionally they are poorly suited to an average lifestyle and can even be uncomfortable at times but that’s a minor consideration and not worth a mention as long as you are in the know. Wouldn’t stop me gathering the evidence for a second. When did practicality ever have anything to do with fashion and style, especially when a holiday or other special occasions are on the horizon? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON! TIME FOR MY TRUE VINTAGE WOOL DRESSES

Another chance to love that red. Okay, I give in. I don’t pull out the wool clothing unless it’s necessary and can usually avoid the deep cold because of frequent relocations. But, a little unpacking reminds me how much I love these wiggle dresses from the late 1950’s – early 1960’s. For the jumper on the left (yes, this is what a sleeveless dress worn over a blouse or sweater is called in the United States) I was fortunate to find a turtleneck in the perfect color to coordinate with the tweedy fabric. I love the HUGE pearl buttons down the front – so much a sign of those times, as compared to the thin, easily broken pearl buttons which were popular in the ’90’s.

The wiggle fit is also characteristic of this era; maybe a little warmer, too. Of course, unless there’s a smooth lining, you’d also need a slip underneath which adds another layer of warmth. Attractive tailoring details are always a plus. Although vintage wool garments sometimes feel a little heavy and confining compared to what we’re used to today, the closest similarity I’ve ever come across are the better quality heavy polyester knit dresses and pantsuits of the early 1970’s. Both added warmth, good tailoring and wrinkle-resistance and are welcome when facing true winter weather. Easy storage that doesn’t require protection from moths is great, too, but in the final analysis nothing beats the quality, durability and elegance of well-made true vintage woolens. I thank our furry friends (and the shellfish which create pearl), and am grateful that we now are developing excellent humane and ethical alternatives.

More Xmas red and seasonal true vintage on the way. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE COAT, FROM THE LATE 1950’S TO 1960’S. LET’S LIGHTEN UP A LITTLE!

For the milder climes, a car coat. This time it’s suede instead of wool, but still with the dressy mink collar and showy buttons. As I’ll show later, leather jackets for women, from Western-wear to dressy styles, were a big thing in the early to mid-Sixties, worn by more and more middle-income women. Usually of a tailored, but casual style and gradually dropping the fur excepting for the hoods of parkas and up-market leather coats and ski jackets.

I’ll continue to focus on seasonal items during this shift from Autumn to Winter and with a nod to the Holidays and vacations. Excepting in the news, nothing controversial happening here but intrigues have a way of appearing spontaneously. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE WINTER COAT MOVIE STAR. MORE EARLY 1960’S LUXURY

Love that red! I was REALLY thrilled to discover this one. Open-front styling in a Kennedy era coat made it a fashionable wardrobe essential for any city gal in the early 1960’s. I can hardly imagine braving Chicago winds or San Francisco drizzle with this one-button closure, but being a’ la mode has always won over practicality with women, especially in decades past. Thank goodness we are now free of that social pressure and can dress as we please without widespread criticism. No fur trim is a plus, though now I wouldn’t buy wool, either.

Anyway, what’s not to love about this beautiful vintage garment? The easy fit of this style is comfortable and less binding over layers worn beneath. The original label confirms that Forstmann was a high-end brand and worth the investment. This one has held up beautifully for over 60 years with only a very few tiny moth nibbles in inconspicuous places. ( OK, they’ve got to feed their babies, too. ) It has the necessary beautiful lining and slash pockets on the side seams.

I’m now in a secure location, if briefly, so will be able to continue transmissions before the next relocation. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Okay, Okay. It’s cold now! Time to get out my Pretty Wool Capes

It’s still Fall, guys, but a skiff of snow on my car this morning brought me back to reality. Although we’ll have more warmish days, it’s time to get out some of the woolies. I’m not ready, yet, to throw on one of my wonderful wool coats but capes are more versatile at in-between times. Here are two of my mid-century favorites.

This beautiful red one is tailored and perfect for smart casual to business styles. It is lined and detailed like a good coat would be. Made in the decade from 1955 to 1965. The classic style makes it difficult to pinpoint a year, but there are always clues. A brand label really helps. Buttons and zippers can tell a story. If you study costume design or are a super sleuth the fabric, certain tailoring details or photos of trends published in newspapers and magazines can narrow the window to a more specific time frame. The next cute and unusual cape is a perfect example.

A reversible garment is so much fun! The second cape is much more casual and in a Boho style. It’s a nice, substantial wool but has no lining or pockets. The only complications to the design are the pattern woven into the fabric and the little tufted string tie at the neckline. It’s also from the same decade as the red cape but I can narrow the time period closely because of the color clue. There were one or two years from 1962 – 1964 when the blue and green color combo went viral. It was on everything from clothing to housewares and graphic design. Styles were also loosening up around then, with Mod edging in on classic and traditional. I’ll bet that this cape was made and sold during those 3 years, possibly exactly 1963.

So, these will keep me warm and the freezing temps are likely to minimize the risks of moth damage. However, it’s always a good idea to protect your treasured woolen garments since those moths can sometimes surprise you. I have more capes to show you, but that may come later in the year or even next year since we’ll be turning the New Year’s page before we know it. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS NEW FIND: EARLY 1960’S SEMI-FORMAL POUF DRESS

Perfect example of a Kennedy Era party dress, bought off the rack back in the day. It’s full of clues in the fabrics and construction. Lace overlay fabric which was very popular at that time, 3-layer skirt with a netting crinoline in the middle, AFLCIO Union Workers label, vintage metal zipper with a hook and eye at the neckline and at the waist, and hanging loops sewn in at the shoulder. These dresses are exceptionally well-made although they were reasonably priced. Although it’s a little short on Stella, it fits her pretty well.

I’m always thrilled to find one and each example has some unique features. In this case, the scarf attached at the right shoulder which drapes across the front neckline is a novel addition. It’s even got a detachable rhinestone brooch on the opposite shoulder, suggesting that there might be other ways to style the scarf. As worn above, it makes a tail over the left shoulder, which was a popular design element at that time and also in decades before. In any case, I’ve never seen one exactly like this. Just goes to prove that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM