This frock is REALLY a beauty! Made by a higher-end label back in the day, the style is so ingenious and flattering. I love the ruching that makes it so unique. Again, you have to have a special figure to do it real justice but Stella never lets me down in that regard.
As I said, it’s made of 100% heavy silk that needs no lining. This is an LBD that is one-of-a-kind; Never will find another like it!
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Let’s start with a velveteen pencil dress and coordinating handbag from the 1940’s. True Forties styling with the pencil cut and skinny sleeves with zippers at the wrists. The dress zips down the back rather than at the side, which began to be seen in the Forties. This dress was probably purchased at retail unless made by an expert tailor. It’s stylish and sophisticated but is frugal with the use of fabric so probably made during wartime.
Other than the wrist zippers, which are almost a necessity with these kinds of sleeves, and the piping finish on sleeves, neckline and waist there are no other embellishments. Piping done this well is not an easy task. In fact, the piping may have saved fabric that otherwise would have been used in hems or facing. Many purses, like the one above, were made of fabric during WWII instead of leather. 1940’s clothing and accessories, especially women’s designs, were very creative. Women and clothing companies came up with lovely fashions while coping with rationing and a limited economy. While not formal, a garment like this would have been appropriate for any dressy event from dinner to cocktails.
Stay tuned for more frocks in this category, from the mid-century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
Blog: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Right about now, usually after the U.S. Thanksgiving holiday, the build-up-to-Christmas galas and formal parties seem to begin and gather momentum. This is, to my mind, the beginning of a formalwear season in the northern countries that lasts through St. Valentine’s Day and picks up speed heading into Prom, with a bump of semi-formal events around Easter and ends, more or less, with bridal events in June. I guess this is the way that humanity has amused itself during the colder months when daily outdoor activities are not generally practical.
The above frock is a beautiful example of many I have seen by Alyce Designs. Most are highly embellished, like this one. Although they are more “modern true vintage” (1970’s – 1990’s), they do have excellent tailoring unlike many garments made since the 1960’s. I believe that the company may still be making dresses, but of course I am not interested now. However, this one is old enough and well enough done that it deserves a showing. I do love the beading on sheer fabric and the nod to 1920’s style.
So, we’ll be heading into a stream of transmissions which will include clues related to semi-formal and formal events. But, evidence from new investigations comes up at random times so stay tuned . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Any time there’s a special event or holiday, a true vintage little black dress will never let you down. This one is so unusual, I had to slip it into the line of bright and colorful frocks that I’ve been showing. Not an easy fit for everyone, but if you’ve got the shoulders to support the neckline and a tiny waist like Stella, it’s absolutely stunning. The drape of the bodice is genius and the fabric flower at the waist adds even more interest without any need to be flashy.
Jewelry should be sophisticated but simple. Diamond stud earrings or gold, or pearls. Absolutely NO statement necklaces to detract from that beautiful neckline and maybe no necklace at all. If more bling is desired, a delicate but luxurious bracelet or watch would be nice. Back in the day beautiful tiny watches in gold or platinum with diamonds were not unusual for those who could afford to splurge on them. Of course, a cocktail ring is always acceptable with a dress like this but, again, the jewelry should not overpower the dress, which is the star of this show. And, the show must go on. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.
I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.
Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Slightly more extreme silhouette, I’d say that these heels are a few years younger than the pink shoes from yesterday. The metallic blue color is very Las Vegas. They look like patent leather and you might expect that because of their age but I believe that they are some type of synthetic. The brand name was probably printed on the insole but has worn away so completely that I can’t depend on it to help me out. Soles are also a synthetic. Very durable, but not a mark of higher quality. These babies were definitely mid-priced but good to go for a long time.
They’re not as tiny as yesterday’s pink pumps and I can wear them! Great find because I have a sateen semi-formal cocktail dress in the same blue color from the same era. That’s one of the most fun things about sleuthing investigations – finding the clues that fit together. Solves the mystery for that outfit! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.
I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.
The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?
So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.
What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.
My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
This example is one of the few cases where picking up a more modern garment is worthwhile. Although it’s definitely retro and not expensively made, this gown has so many of the true-to-style elements that evening frocks from the 1930’s and 1940’s did – I was delighted to see how much of the styling the designers had gotten “right” and couldn’t resist it as a great costume.
For Halloween or a historical play it will be lots of fun and fits me well.
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
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