Category Archives: custom-made

1970’S KNIT DRESSES – SOME OF THE BEST TAILORED CLOTHING FROM THE DISCO ERA

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Although the Seventies were full of schlocky clothing and many less-than-elegant designs, the full decline of everyday fashion hadn’t hit yet.  Here’s an example of a wonderfully-elegant style which was hand-made from one of those beautiful heavy double-knits that became popular in the early – mid decade.

Like the jersey knits of the 1940’s, this material was a real icon of the 1970s and performs very well.  The drape is very good and holds it’s shape.  This office-worthy frock was custom-tailored and is as simple as can be, which makes the design timeless.  The fabric and construction are of high quality.  If you find or still own a similar garment from that era, hang on to it!

A rare find (in my size!) that thrilled me to my toes.  But, we’re not finished yet – I’ll show you her party-going sister tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR DRESSY DINNER FROCK, CUSTOM-TAILORED IN SOUTH AMERICA

Here’s another dressy frock from Montevideo, Uruguay – probably just a few years younger than her sister shown yesterday.  This dress is stylish, but not as Crawford vampish as the other.  The 1940’s styling has been played down, excepting for the puffy shoulders and embroidered mesh trim.  I forgot to take a picture with the black curly lamb jacket  which was also a recent find, from the early 1950’s.  Would be a perfect wrap over this dress.

No, it is not bare on the bodice.  The mesh has been lined with a flesh-tone panel which is a perfect match for bare skin peeking out at the shoulders.  The tailoring of these mid-century frocks is just astounding, especially when they were hand-made by dressmakers.  The well-to-do ladies in Montevideo would have had much of their clothing custom-made to their specifications and fit.

However, remember the dressing gown from a few days ago?  It was also hand-made, but from France, and probably purchased before the European war.  Many Montevidean women purchased French fashions and accessories back in the day.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WARTIME 1940’S DRESSY FROCK, HANDMADE IN MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY

Though WWII was raging in Europe and Argentina next door was experiencing unrest, the 1940’s were a relatively stable and prosperous time for Uruguay and this shows up in the architecture and antique goods which I discovered there.  The country profited from beef supplied to other countries and the more well-off citizens lived a good life.  Their clothing and household goods reflected that.

This beautiful frock was hand-tailored in a dressmaker’s shop.  All of the embellishment was applied by hand and the tailoring is hand-done, too.  As you can see, it’s loaded with beads and sequins, plus all the little button and loop closures up the back.  Madame must have had a household staff, one of whom helped her dress and looked after her wardrobe.  I love the 1940’s styling with the big, padded shoulders and ruching at the hips.  These funny hip details were flattering only to slim figures, but they’re loads of fun, anyway.

So, a real treasure find.  I’ll show you her younger sister tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

WARTIME MYSTERY CUSTOM-TAILORED NIGHTGOWN – WHAT A FIND!

Fabulous late 1930’s – early 1940’s styling details, hand-tailoring and original(?) fabrics???  I know the design (a relative had one similar).  The embroidered mesh on the bodice is similar to the wartime dressing gown shown a couple of days ago.  The synthetic(?) fabric is like nothing I’ve felt before.  The gusset at the hemline is a period feature.

IS THIS AN ORIGINAL WWI – WWII GOWN OR AN EXPERTLY-MADE REPRODUCTION?  I can’t be sure.  It’s in almost-perfect condition, but has been around for a while.  No label, of course.  Would love to know it’s story.  Any ideas, you well-trained experts out there? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER UNUSUAL VINTAGE LOUNGE-WEAR KIMONO – TRADITIONAL EAST ASIAN

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What a beautiful handmade garment!  I can’t date it and have never discovered one like it before.  Because of the traditional style and motifs, it may be hard to say exactly how old it is.  Could be several decades old, or very modern.  I was attracted by the beautiful colors and the hand-tailoring.

The belt I have used is not original, but necessary for this robe.  As I understand it, obi belts are often made separately from the robe, to special order.

Although it seems very large and long, after you wrap it it fits little size 2 Stella.  What a puzzle – not sure who it would have been made for.  The motif of cranes suggest a man (?) but I’m certainly no expert on these!  But wait – more mysteries to come . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A VERY SPECIAL HANDMADE LINGERIE NIGHTGOWN WITH MYSTERY HERITAGE

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This is such a WONDERFUL find (aren’t they all?)!  It’s a bit of a mystery, which I love. . . .

The style is late 1930’s – early 1940’s and it’s been custom – made.  There’s no label or sign that there ever was one.  The bodice has embroidered netting (similar to the 1930’s house-dress I found a few months ago in Montevideo – remember?).  It’s finished almost entirely with french seams.  Little bow detail on the bodice – lots of hand-work.

The fabric is some kind of synthetic which isn’t like vintage fabrics I’m familiar with NOR modern ones!?#  There is virtually no sign of wear and just a little bit of age or storage-related damage, which was easy to fix.  The conundrum is – – – – – – – – — – – – – – – – – – :

it’s either true vintage from the WWII era OR a reproduction (not retro-style fashion) which has been expertly made to be identical to the originals.  Whoopsie doo!  Either way, it’s a fabulous gown and a rare and unique discovery which will look stunning on Stella.  More to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE TEXTILE FINDS ARE ALWAYS TREASURE

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Fun and interesting mid-century and antique table and bed linens often show up during my investigations.  The prints are humorous, colorful and pretty.  Modern copycats can’t  come close!  If there is handwork like embroidery or lace, it’s beautiful.  I collect them, too.  The mending and stain removal that is sometimes required is no big deal and anything with too much damage can be made into pillow covers and cloth napkins.  I love using these things at home in my kitchen and bedroom, but there’s more . . . . . . . . . . .

Big pieces of fabric are also wonderful made into clothing and accessories.  Trim can sometimes be added to other garments or a big piece of crocheted or tatted lace makes a beautiful dress or blouse. Can’t you just imagine this cloth made into a summer dress, skirt or blouse, maybe with a matching handbag? Can’t wait to use this cute tablecloth!

Potential vintage fashion treasures abound everywhere!  Use your imagination and you never know what you may uncover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

NEW FIND – DEPRESSION ERA HANKIE WITH BEAUTIFUL HAND-MADE APPLIQUE’

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I still come across true vintage handkerchiefs once in a while and always collect them.  This one is not fine linen or even high quality cotton and started it’s life as a commercially-made piece that probably had no decoration excepting the machine-done edging, BUT the delicate applique needlework down in the left-lower corner is the real story.  Some woman who couldn’t afford more expensive linens made a dainty item with her own hands.  It is almost unbelievable with the tiny, tiny stitches and the steps taken to prepare the pieces that were sewn on to make the flower.

Girls used to be taught this kind of hand work in almost every home before WWII time, and many still afterwards.  If not lace-making, tatting or applique’ by the late mid-century, girls at least learned some embroidery, crochet or knitting.  My own grandmothers still knew how to do it.

Even though paper tissues are more convenient now, a fabric handkerchief is very elegant and just the thing when attending a wedding or other private affair.  The decoration on most of them is gorgeous, whether hand-done or by machine.  Even the printed patterns are lovely or at least colorful and amusing.  If you’re into home sewing, I’ve seen these hankies pieced together and turned into pretty pillow tops, table linens and even blouses, skirts or dresses.

So, another little story unfolds for me to share with you. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LOVE THIS HAND-TAILORED COTTON GOWN IN A PRETTY PEONY PRINT

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The colors are beautiful and the styling unusual, with a faux train detail back and front – falling from the bodice.  My first impression was that this dress may have been made in Hawaii, but I’m not sure.  There is no label and my impression is that it was made by an individual with tailoring expertise or at a small tailoring shop.

The fabric and construction details say true vintage to me, so I’m going with that.  Such a pretty design – it floats from just above the bust-line, swirling down to the hem, which is cut just a little longer in the back to make the dress fall properly.  This is a detail that is not often (if ever) seen in mainstream patterns that have been cut recently – one of the important styling elements that have gone by the wayside in modern times.  Surely true couture houses still observe them(?).

Anyway, gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.  Very informal but extremely elegant.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SEPARATES FOR SPRING AND SUMMER

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Not always the most exciting things to find, but I am always thrilled because true vintage wardrobes cannot be built without them.  What will you wear with that great 1940’s skirt or pair of slacks?  What blouse will be just right under the beautiful skirt suit?

I also love these garments because of the fabric and tailoring.  A hand-knitted sweater from back in the day is always a great find because they’re RARE and much more nicely crafted than machine-knit mass-produced clothing in the stores today.  I love the Forties/Fifties style of this one with gathered shoulders and ribbed cuffs, fitted waist and a scalloped boat neck.  The short-sleeved shirt is a well-tailored cotton version, so common during the 1950’s and early 1960’s for everyday wear.  The pale pastel palette will be just right with skirts, shorts, jeans and summer whites.

I hit the separates jackpot which I’ll continue to show you tomorrow.  Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM