Category Archives: WWI

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS SURPRISE FIND – REEDCRAFT LEATHER PURSE FROM THE 1920’S – 1930’S

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What a rare and wonderful discovery!  In excellent condition – perhaps never used.  Only some minor discolorations from age or storage and almost 100 years old.

These handbags have beautifully finished leather and fun hardware touches.  A tri-color Bakelite or celluloid clasp ornament and even a little coin purse stashed inside.  When you think that this was at the beginning of the Great Depression with war looming in Europe, it puts a different slant on this pretty product.  The company was formed in 1928, just a year before the stock market crash.

Despite it all, people did find ways to enjoy life in the 1930’s – some of the most fun and outrageously glamorous movies were made during that time, some of the most luxurious and over-the-top fashion plus beautiful Art Deco furniture, architecture and ornamentation.

“Pack up your troubles in your old kit bag and smile, smile, smile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..”

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY BEAUTIFUL WARTIME FRENCH-MADE DRESSING GOWN FROM MONTEVIDEO

Couldn’t wait to get this gorgeous gown onto Stella.  She’s just the right size (and maybe I am, too, if I can bear to risk wearing it!).  The embroidered netting and roses on rayon are so, so 1930’s – 1940’s.

I love the special tailoring touches from that time such as the longer hem in back that makes a little train.  This dress was probably meant to fit someone a little shorter than Stel.

It would seem that Montevideans from early in the wartime era loved their fashions and accessories from France.   More to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

TRUE VINTAGE TEXTILE FINDS ARE ALWAYS TREASURE

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Fun and interesting mid-century and antique table and bed linens often show up during my investigations.  The prints are humorous, colorful and pretty.  Modern copycats can’t  come close!  If there is handwork like embroidery or lace, it’s beautiful.  I collect them, too.  The mending and stain removal that is sometimes required is no big deal and anything with too much damage can be made into pillow covers and cloth napkins.  I love using these things at home in my kitchen and bedroom, but there’s more . . . . . . . . . . .

Big pieces of fabric are also wonderful made into clothing and accessories.  Trim can sometimes be added to other garments or a big piece of crocheted or tatted lace makes a beautiful dress or blouse. Can’t you just imagine this cloth made into a summer dress, skirt or blouse, maybe with a matching handbag? Can’t wait to use this cute tablecloth!

Potential vintage fashion treasures abound everywhere!  Use your imagination and you never know what you may uncover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

NEW FIND – DEPRESSION ERA HANKIE WITH BEAUTIFUL HAND-MADE APPLIQUE’

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I still come across true vintage handkerchiefs once in a while and always collect them.  This one is not fine linen or even high quality cotton and started it’s life as a commercially-made piece that probably had no decoration excepting the machine-done edging, BUT the delicate applique needlework down in the left-lower corner is the real story.  Some woman who couldn’t afford more expensive linens made a dainty item with her own hands.  It is almost unbelievable with the tiny, tiny stitches and the steps taken to prepare the pieces that were sewn on to make the flower.

Girls used to be taught this kind of hand work in almost every home before WWII time, and many still afterwards.  If not lace-making, tatting or applique’ by the late mid-century, girls at least learned some embroidery, crochet or knitting.  My own grandmothers still knew how to do it.

Even though paper tissues are more convenient now, a fabric handkerchief is very elegant and just the thing when attending a wedding or other private affair.  The decoration on most of them is gorgeous, whether hand-done or by machine.  Even the printed patterns are lovely or at least colorful and amusing.  If you’re into home sewing, I’ve seen these hankies pieced together and turned into pretty pillow tops, table linens and even blouses, skirts or dresses.

So, another little story unfolds for me to share with you. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MADE IN JAPAN – LOOK AT THIS FAB COTTON KIMONO!

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Although the phrase “made in Japan” used to connote (in Western countries) some cheap trinket back in the WWI, WWII and Post-war days before their technological revolution, Japan is also the country that is known for gorgeous kimonos and traditional garments of the most elaborate embroidered silk.

Another unusual and  surprising find.  I’m not sure exactly how to date this 100% cotton robe, but it’s beautiful and well-styled in it’s elegant simplicity.  The fan motifs are very wonderful and I love the colors (as does Stella – with that auburn hair it’s dynamite on her!).

Definitely a keeper.  More to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM