NEW TRUE VINTAGE FIND – HOME-SEWN MID-CENTURY BOHO ETHNIC SKIRT

I always collect true vintage separates – especially those that are fun and unusual. They usually tell a story. This one is in great shape with evidence of being custom-tailored by a home-based “seamster” (probably a woman, but who knows?). One thing I know by an interior-only clue is that s/he probably had a little dog or other small pet. S/he very frugally used seam tape that had been chewed a bit. No problem – it did the job.

It could be part of an ethnic costume or simply one of the Boho styles which were very trendy in some ways between 1955 and 1975. I love the dirndl style and colorful weave, almost like home-loomed fabric. I don’t have any special knowledge about ethnic dress that would allow me to pinpoint more closely. Anyway, it’s flattering and easy-wear. Good for mix and match with a variety of tops for different looks and different weathers.

What else makes this special and very wearable in cooler weather? The colors and medium weight are good for 3-season wear. It’s possible that the material contains wool. Would look great with tights, boots or even some leggings. Separates are a useful way to add variety to a true vintage wardrobe and to dress “vintage” without having a complete outfit. Added to my go-to daily wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON! TIME FOR MY TRUE VINTAGE WOOL DRESSES

Another chance to love that red. Okay, I give in. I don’t pull out the wool clothing unless it’s necessary and can usually avoid the deep cold because of frequent relocations. But, a little unpacking reminds me how much I love these wiggle dresses from the late 1950’s – early 1960’s. For the jumper on the left (yes, this is what a sleeveless dress worn over a blouse or sweater is called in the United States) I was fortunate to find a turtleneck in the perfect color to coordinate with the tweedy fabric. I love the HUGE pearl buttons down the front – so much a sign of those times, as compared to the thin, easily broken pearl buttons which were popular in the ’90’s.

The wiggle fit is also characteristic of this era; maybe a little warmer, too. Of course, unless there’s a smooth lining, you’d also need a slip underneath which adds another layer of warmth. Attractive tailoring details are always a plus. Although vintage wool garments sometimes feel a little heavy and confining compared to what we’re used to today, the closest similarity I’ve ever come across are the better quality heavy polyester knit dresses and pantsuits of the early 1970’s. Both added warmth, good tailoring and wrinkle-resistance and are welcome when facing true winter weather. Easy storage that doesn’t require protection from moths is great, too, but in the final analysis nothing beats the quality, durability and elegance of well-made true vintage woolens. I thank our furry friends (and the shellfish which create pearl), and am grateful that we now are developing excellent humane and ethical alternatives.

More Xmas red and seasonal true vintage on the way. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE WINTER COAT MOVIE STAR. MORE EARLY 1960’S LUXURY

Love that red! I was REALLY thrilled to discover this one. Open-front styling in a Kennedy era coat made it a fashionable wardrobe essential for any city gal in the early 1960’s. I can hardly imagine braving Chicago winds or San Francisco drizzle with this one-button closure, but being a’ la mode has always won over practicality with women, especially in decades past. Thank goodness we are now free of that social pressure and can dress as we please without widespread criticism. No fur trim is a plus, though now I wouldn’t buy wool, either.

Anyway, what’s not to love about this beautiful vintage garment? The easy fit of this style is comfortable and less binding over layers worn beneath. The original label confirms that Forstmann was a high-end brand and worth the investment. This one has held up beautifully for over 60 years with only a very few tiny moth nibbles in inconspicuous places. ( OK, they’ve got to feed their babies, too. ) It has the necessary beautiful lining and slash pockets on the side seams.

I’m now in a secure location, if briefly, so will be able to continue transmissions before the next relocation. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MINK COLLAR ON A FINE TRUE VINTAGE CASHMERE COAT RAISES THE STATUS TO LUXURY LEVEL

Again, warmth is the keynote here but glamor is the melody. Beautiful fashioning and two of the most desired materials made this 1950’s – early 1960’s coat a high-end item. We’ve already discussed the humane and ethical problems with fur but cashmere is another atrocity which must be avoided in any modern retail items. There are alternatives now which look and feel like authentic cashmere but are man-made. More iconic coats coming, so stay tuned. I will be changing locations soon, so there may be a brief break in transmissions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Okay, Okay. It’s cold now! Time to get out my Pretty Wool Capes

It’s still Fall, guys, but a skiff of snow on my car this morning brought me back to reality. Although we’ll have more warmish days, it’s time to get out some of the woolies. I’m not ready, yet, to throw on one of my wonderful wool coats but capes are more versatile at in-between times. Here are two of my mid-century favorites.

This beautiful red one is tailored and perfect for smart casual to business styles. It is lined and detailed like a good coat would be. Made in the decade from 1955 to 1965. The classic style makes it difficult to pinpoint a year, but there are always clues. A brand label really helps. Buttons and zippers can tell a story. If you study costume design or are a super sleuth the fabric, certain tailoring details or photos of trends published in newspapers and magazines can narrow the window to a more specific time frame. The next cute and unusual cape is a perfect example.

A reversible garment is so much fun! The second cape is much more casual and in a Boho style. It’s a nice, substantial wool but has no lining or pockets. The only complications to the design are the pattern woven into the fabric and the little tufted string tie at the neckline. It’s also from the same decade as the red cape but I can narrow the time period closely because of the color clue. There were one or two years from 1962 – 1964 when the blue and green color combo went viral. It was on everything from clothing to housewares and graphic design. Styles were also loosening up around then, with Mod edging in on classic and traditional. I’ll bet that this cape was made and sold during those 3 years, possibly exactly 1963.

So, these will keep me warm and the freezing temps are likely to minimize the risks of moth damage. However, it’s always a good idea to protect your treasured woolen garments since those moths can sometimes surprise you. I have more capes to show you, but that may come later in the year or even next year since we’ll be turning the New Year’s page before we know it. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE CASUAL SWEATERS FROM THE FIFTIES – A CUTE PAIR OF TWINS FOR THE SWEATER GIRLS

IMG_0927     Not your typical “twin-set” – I found this pair of ’50’s cuties together – they probably belonged to the same woman.  They’re identical excepting for the color.  Very becoming to both Madge and Stella, don’t you think?  If you zoom in, you can see the decorative studs on the front of each one.

Of the softest angora blend – rollover neckline, 3/4 sleeves and decorated with button accents on the front – these look great with black cigarette pants or a coordinating skirt.  Perfect for a casual Fifties or early Sixties cocktail hour.  Belly up to the Tiki bar!

True vintage sweaters in perfect condition are always a rare find!  Just another day in the life of the magicvintagespy . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS – STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940’S / 1950’S

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS - STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940'S / 1950'S

Daytime into evening glamour for some well-dressed women back in the day.  I just love the details and distinctive style of these.

Unmistakably true vintage, they’re extremely versatile today when we might wear them with anything from jeans to evening clothing.  And, of course, a perfect final touch to any period costume.

Naturally, they’re beautifully finished inside, with the original owner’s initials sewn to the lining.  The little pockets on the front of the cape are an interesting feature – and that BIG button closure – AND the huge cuffs on the ’40’s jacket – LOVE!

Since supporting the current market for new furs is a major no-no for anyone who values animal rights, as I do, I’m grateful for the excellent imitation furs that are being made now and that the sales of new real furs seem to be diminishing – at least in the U.S.  I hope that’s true.

It’s OK to enjoy these pretty designs from a half-century ago for their place in fashion history and beautiful craftsmanship.  I never get tired of wondering and imagining about the origins and histories of the lovely garments I find, and how to wear them now . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930’S – 1940′ S – EARLY 1950’s

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930'S - 1940'S - early 1950's

I just love this cape and it’s little details.  I’m an animal rights activist and don’t approve of the fur trade in any way, but I have collected old ones from back in the day.

Not sure what the origin of this fur is.  The stripes are clearly dyed, probably to resemble mink.  It’s got these funny little tabs to “close” the bottoms of the arm slits, for a better appearance and added warmth.

Of course, it had patches sewn inside with the owner’s initials embroidered on, along with the maker’s label, both of which are gone now.  Surprisingly, it’s in great condition for its age – still soft and radiant.

These garments are so full of history that they intrigue me as much as any other vintage fashion.  I wear them, too.  Some people would say this is hypocritical but  I would disagree – buying or wearing antique fur or leather does not support the current market for these things unless someone makes an irresponsible decision.  I suggest that we should all be responsible for our choices in the marketplace – so, if you like my vintage fur, don’t use that as an excuse to go out and buy a modern one.  Search for another vintage fur at least 50 or more years old or buy an imitation fur replica and do something kind for wildlife or your pet.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM