Category Archives: Mad Men

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS NEW FIND: EARLY 1960’S SEMI-FORMAL POUF DRESS

Perfect example of a Kennedy Era party dress, bought off the rack back in the day. It’s full of clues in the fabrics and construction. Lace overlay fabric which was very popular at that time, 3-layer skirt with a netting crinoline in the middle, AFLCIO Union Workers label, vintage metal zipper with a hook and eye at the neckline and at the waist, and hanging loops sewn in at the shoulder. These dresses are exceptionally well-made although they were reasonably priced. Although it’s a little short on Stella, it fits her pretty well.

I’m always thrilled to find one and each example has some unique features. In this case, the scarf attached at the right shoulder which drapes across the front neckline is a novel addition. It’s even got a detachable rhinestone brooch on the opposite shoulder, suggesting that there might be other ways to style the scarf. As worn above, it makes a tail over the left shoulder, which was a popular design element at that time and also in decades before. In any case, I’ve never seen one exactly like this. Just goes to prove that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Hats: Another Stand-out Accessory That Belongs in Every True Vintage Wardrobe

In my book, the 1940’s through the 1960’s was the best era for ladies’ hats in the U.S. unless you’re into antiquities. Yes, every decade has had some great ones but most beautiful hats that are truly wearable come from the Mid-century. Here are some iconic examples from each of those decades: a Forties picture hat, Fifties toque & pillbox with veil and Sixties pastel cellophane/raffia hats.

Mainstream women from all three of these decades wore hats frequently, if not daily. (Classic films and old magazines are good documentation of this.) So, obviously, they were sold in every store which carried ladies’ fashions and most were affordable. Easy to wear, flattering and very collectable, so go for it. . . . . . and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another MUST for a True Vintage Wardrobe – Authentic Costume Jewelry

No matter what else you’re wearing, or even if your jewelry is the only vintage piece in your outfit, it will stand out strongly. That’s especially true of these colorful and unique examples. Though cheap copy-cats are being made now, I still recommend the originals.

Fine true vintage jewelry in gold and silver is always special and wonderful but can be pricey. Costume jewelry is easier to find and softer on the budget. Collect a variety of styles and items – you’ll have something different for every day and just the perfect thing for every outfit.

Of course, it needs care but is exceptionally durable in general. Simple protection from scratches, rough handling and strong UV light for prolonged periods will do the trick. Compact and easy to store, though if you’re a sleuth with an extensive archive the files can become pretty heavy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . More accessories tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

20 YEARS BEFORE NEW WAVE, ELECTRIC BLUE STILETTO HEELS FROM THE EARLY 1960’S

Slightly more extreme silhouette, I’d say that these heels are a few years younger than the pink shoes from yesterday. The metallic blue color is very Las Vegas. They look like patent leather and you might expect that because of their age but I believe that they are some type of synthetic. The brand name was probably printed on the insole but has worn away so completely that I can’t depend on it to help me out. Soles are also a synthetic. Very durable, but not a mark of higher quality. These babies were definitely mid-priced but good to go for a long time.

They’re not as tiny as yesterday’s pink pumps and I can wear them! Great find because I have a sateen semi-formal cocktail dress in the same blue color from the same era. That’s one of the most fun things about sleuthing investigations – finding the clues that fit together. Solves the mystery for that outfit! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY LITTLE PINK PUMPS

Maybe Peggy Sue wore these to the Prom. Entirely possible – Life Stride brand shoes were mid-priced and available at shoe stores in town centers where everybody shopped in mid-century America. A very popular brand; they often sold purses to match the shoes. This was a big deal for women in the 1950’s and early 1960’s and tons of them were sold. Looks like the company, in some form, is still operating. If you shop Walmart, take a look there but I doubt you’ll find anything nearly as wonderful as these, and certainly not with the history . . .. . . . .

Let me know if you have any Life Stride stories. I’d love to have them for the archives and stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES FROM THE 1950’S TO ADD TO FALL HANDBAGS

A FEW TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES FROM THE 1950'S

Yes, September often means it’s time to switch out some of the Summer wardrobe for warmer clothing.  Traditionally, it was also the time to put away anything white, including accessories.  That means I’m looking over my collection of true vintage handbags and selecting a couple that coordinate well with my Autumn fashion choices.  Not only does that mean switching out a matching wallet, but other handy purse accessories from back in the day can be included.  What savvy dame would forget to equip her handbag with smart and handy accessories?  Here are just a few.

It’s so fun to look back into our mothers’ and grandmothers’ handbags to see what they used to carry on a daily basis.  These are just a smattering of the interesting items I’ve seen.  Mirrors, combs and tiny brushes, lipstick cases, foldable rain hats, key cases and key-rings all came in different sizes, styles and designs.  An emery board and an orange stick were usually tucked in somewhere.  Smokers also had special accessories – cases, lighters and interesting matchbooks.  Little pillboxes were very decorative and pretty.  I’ve got a few of those.

Above we see two note pads (with attached pen or pencil), a manicure set, sewing kit, mirror set (with normal and magnifying glasses), and an attractive case for a comb.

The intelligent and fashionable woman is always well-prepared when stepping out, no matter what her mission may be.  Efficiency and style – that’s my motto . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM