Category Archives: hand-tailored

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HEY, MOM – I NEED A HALLOWEEN COSTUME! NO WORRIES FOR OUR 1950’S HOMEMAKER . . .

IMG_0966 IMG_0963     She’d just pull out the latest edition of her McCalls Needlework magazine.  And, of course, there is the Christmas Pageant, too . .. . .

I can’t believe the intricacy of these home-sewing DIY patterns.  Women used to do this all the time!

Once when I was a kid, my (I thought) non-sewing grandmother did  whip up a very convincing 1960’s black collarless jacket for me when I wanted to be a Beatle for Halloween.  Who knew?  . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S, MADE IN HONG KONG

AN ELEGANT TRUE VINTAGE EVENING CARDIGAN SWEATER FROM THE 1950'S - EARLY 1960'S, MADE IN HONG KONG

Here’s a beautiful decorated sweater meant, mostly, for evening wear.  It is fully lined in silk with black beads and spangles decorating front and back.  Many mid-century women had one of these – it was a classic standard.

Made in Hong Kong, the quality is a cut above many garments made elsewhere. This seems to have been the case for many decades.  It’s another one of those iconic garments that is a must-have for any vintage wardrobe and, maybe, more than one since the colors and decorative patterns were varied and unique.

Though high-quality tailoring was particularly true for vintage garments made several decades ago, I still take special note when I find modern clothing that has been made in Hong Kong.  The materials and tailoring are still almost always excellent in garments made there..

There is no wrap more elegant, excepting perhaps a wonderful vintage fur, than a beautifully-made hand-decorated fine wool cardigan thrown over your shoulders. It can be worn in many ways and will never let you down.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS FIND! 1940’S OR EARLY 1950’S 2-PC SWEATER DRESS – VA-VA-VOOM!!

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What a wiggle dress this is!  Marilyn Monroe – move over!!  What a rare find – couldn’t believe it when it appeared (no, I fib. Of course I could).  It’s hand-knitted, as was the one given to me several years ago by my friend Rosalie, who had made it herself in 1952.  Likely, many women who were competent needle-workers did so when this style was popular.

This example is made of the same glossy yarn I wrote about several days ago.  My other garments made from it are casual sweaters, so I was floored to find this lovely dress of the same material!  Just perfect for a sophisticated occasion.  I’m keeping it for wearing at just the right vintage venues (local museum events come to mind) or theme cocktail parties, Halloween  . . . . . . . . ..

Anyway, I’ll be having LOTS of fun with it.  That’s what it’s all about!!!  Too much enthusiasm?  Never . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A 1960’S HOME-SEWN SUMMER SCOOTER DRESS

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How cute is this – and, in wonderful condition?!  Nice two-tone probably cotton fabric, with a flippy pleated skirt and button tab decoration at the hip-line.  It was fashioned at home by a seamstress with confidence who made exactly what she wanted, with a perfect fit for her.  It’s a little big on me, but the style makes it super-easy to alter the size.

I can just imagine Ann-Margret in a frock like this one, riding on the back of a scooter in a mid-century movie.  What a treat!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

 

PRETTY MID-CENTURY COTTON PATIO DRESS IN RED, WHITE & BLUE PRAIRIE STYLE

This dress is pristine – a beautiful example of a custom-tailored frock from the 1960’s or 1970’s.  The fabric is quilting-type cotton with small floral detail.  Very patriotic, too, if you’re into that.

Prairie style was huge during the 1965 – 1975 decade and I suspect that was when this dress was made.  However, it’s almost like new with very little evidence of wear.  Perhaps it was made for a special occasion.  Because of the style – a bit prissy for my taste – it might not have been worn regularly.  Long sleeves limit the summer usefulness but are a great plus for Fall.  All things considered, I’m thrilled to find a frock in such perfect condition!

Unraveling the clues is always the icing on the cake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CUSTOM-TAILORED 1950’s early 1960’s ROCKABILLY SUNDRESS

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Ooh, LOVE this!  Stella’s got a real rockabilly thing going on.  What a pretty and flirty dress someone made back in the day!

Just right for summer shopping, dancing and just playing around.  The bust-line flounce, wrap tie cummerbund belt and full skirt are really flattering features that also allow for some size variability when you have skinny or fat days.  Although, this frock was made for a slender gal because there are no zipper or buttons.

Ah, well.  Stella can do it, and so can I.  So, definitely another keeper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG;  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

IT’S SO MUCH FUN!! HOME-SEWN DAY DRESSES FROM THE 1960’S

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More custom-tailored stories coming my way – this cute cotton summer frock practically lets me follow the seamstress’s journey as she made this dress for herself.  It’s so fun to think of a girl or woman, way back in the day, going to the fabric store and finding a pattern she loves – picking the material she wants and using her sewing skills learned in Home Ec class and the dreams in her imagination to create a dress that she’ll love to wear.

Wish Stella were here to model it for me, but if you know anything about sewing, all the details of this dress make it crystal clear.  Although I love finding gorgeous designer frocks from the 1940’s, Fifties and before, a simple homemade garment is one of the sweetest surprises. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .  .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A COUPLE OF LATE ’40’S – EARLY ’50’S FUN SHIRTWAIST DRESSES IN SUNNY COLORS

A COUPLE OF LATE '50'S - EARLY '60'S FUN SHIRTWAIST DRESSES IN LEAD-INTO-FALL COLORS

I love the colors of these dresses – pink to lavender, with black and white.  Both in a similar shirtwaist style, below-the-knee length and made of a substantial cotton.  Perfect mid-century design.  Absolutely LOVE the collar shapes!

The dress on the left has little houses in a novelty print and some interesting tuck and piping details.  The fabric is a bit heavier, and I’d wear it into Fall.  The one on the right has cute pockets, ric-rac trim and a great plaid.  It really says “summer” and farmers’ markets, to me.  I took the sleeves off for a more flattering fit for me (and saved them, of course!) and wear it often.

Neither one has a label, but I doubt that they were made at home – especially not the left-hand one.  Just goes to show, that labels often go by the wayside. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM