Category Archives: guidebook

JUST FOUND! GORGEOUS 1930’S – 1940’S WARTIME TO POST-WAR RAYON BED JACKET

 

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What a neat discovery!  I have 2 or 3 lingerie bed jackets from this era already, but haven’t found another for a long time.  Rare, rare, rare.  This one may have been part of some woman’s trousseau, which she stored away lovingly for decades.  Some were made of silk.  This one is glossy rayon.

Pretty bed jackets from the post-war 1950’s are also fabulous, but much different from the older wartime ones.  Notice in the detail close-up the embroidered mesh decoration.  Remember that from the nightgown I showed just a few days ago?

Oh, I’m over the moon again and will also store this garment away lovingly, probably for decades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

SWISHY, SASSY AND SOPHISTICATED EIGHTIES DOES FORTIES DAY DRESS

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When I don’t find the real 1940’s thing, this will do.  When a dress is as nicely done as this one, I collect it and wear it with no worries.

In a pretty true-to-Forties style, of 100% rayon with an abstract leaf print, this frock wraps in front and ties to one side.  Well-fitting with some smocked elastic in the waistband behind and well-placed buttons and snaps inside to prevent gaps.  This is a design that rivals the best vintage styles with attention to tailoring detail and makes any garment a pleasure to wear.

Modest-sized shoulder pads and a midi-hemline add to the figure-enhancing final result.  Easy, worry-free wear and flattering style never came any better.  Although it’s only baby vintage, just about 35 years old, I’m pleased and will wear it a lot!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL POST-WAR LINGERIE SLIP THAT CAN DOUBLE AS A GOWN

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In lustrous black nylon and lace, this is one of those wonderful slips that feel like heaven to touch.  What you can’t see well in this photo, is that the bodice and hemline ruffle are in tiny accordion pleats.

The original label was removed, which I’m always sorry to see, but for a seventy-year-old she’s in marvelous shape.  I have reinforced some places in the stitching that had become weak and re-set one of the straps.  That’s all.  I suspect that the “brown” lace was originally black and that it’s fabric has faded with age.  I kind of like it this way, but may also dye it back to the original – easy to do with most slips because nylon stands up well to hot water.

I love it that we can now wear wonderful lingerie as dresses in the summer, for evening or as sleepwear.  It’s also perfect under midi-length dresses from the late ’30’s to the early ’50’s, of course, (and 1980’s – wait till tomorrow).. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A VERY SPECIAL HANDMADE LINGERIE NIGHTGOWN WITH MYSTERY HERITAGE

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This is such a WONDERFUL find (aren’t they all?)!  It’s a bit of a mystery, which I love. . . .

The style is late 1930’s – early 1940’s and it’s been custom – made.  There’s no label or sign that there ever was one.  The bodice has embroidered netting (similar to the 1930’s house-dress I found a few months ago in Montevideo – remember?).  It’s finished almost entirely with french seams.  Little bow detail on the bodice – lots of hand-work.

The fabric is some kind of synthetic which isn’t like vintage fabrics I’m familiar with NOR modern ones!?#  There is virtually no sign of wear and just a little bit of age or storage-related damage, which was easy to fix.  The conundrum is – – – – – – – – — – – – – – – – – – :

it’s either true vintage from the WWII era OR a reproduction (not retro-style fashion) which has been expertly made to be identical to the originals.  Whoopsie doo!  Either way, it’s a fabulous gown and a rare and unique discovery which will look stunning on Stella.  More to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE TEXTILE FINDS ARE ALWAYS TREASURE

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Fun and interesting mid-century and antique table and bed linens often show up during my investigations.  The prints are humorous, colorful and pretty.  Modern copycats can’t  come close!  If there is handwork like embroidery or lace, it’s beautiful.  I collect them, too.  The mending and stain removal that is sometimes required is no big deal and anything with too much damage can be made into pillow covers and cloth napkins.  I love using these things at home in my kitchen and bedroom, but there’s more . . . . . . . . . . .

Big pieces of fabric are also wonderful made into clothing and accessories.  Trim can sometimes be added to other garments or a big piece of crocheted or tatted lace makes a beautiful dress or blouse. Can’t you just imagine this cloth made into a summer dress, skirt or blouse, maybe with a matching handbag? Can’t wait to use this cute tablecloth!

Potential vintage fashion treasures abound everywhere!  Use your imagination and you never know what you may uncover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

SECOND FIND – AN EIGHTIES DOES FORTIES SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

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Interesting!  I’ve come up, in the past 3 or 4 years, with three dresses in this basic style – crossover bodice, wasp waist, poufy sleeves and shoulder augmentation – all in formal styles.

The first find was true 1940’s, the second was ’40’s to early ’50’s and this last is 1980’s doing the Forties thing.  This frock’s styling is a real dog’s breakfast.  It  gives a nod to the bubble skirts of the Eighties in spite of the mid-calf length and in a ’50’s-style bright pastel – which to me is kind of an awkward trendy marketing ploy that fails in the final analysis.

No matter.  It’s fun to see what happened with the same style over the years and this one will go to the university theater due to some un-fixable damage.  It’s a hoot to explore the back alleys of fashion history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEW FIND – DEPRESSION ERA HANKIE WITH BEAUTIFUL HAND-MADE APPLIQUE’

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I still come across true vintage handkerchiefs once in a while and always collect them.  This one is not fine linen or even high quality cotton and started it’s life as a commercially-made piece that probably had no decoration excepting the machine-done edging, BUT the delicate applique needlework down in the left-lower corner is the real story.  Some woman who couldn’t afford more expensive linens made a dainty item with her own hands.  It is almost unbelievable with the tiny, tiny stitches and the steps taken to prepare the pieces that were sewn on to make the flower.

Girls used to be taught this kind of hand work in almost every home before WWII time, and many still afterwards.  If not lace-making, tatting or applique’ by the late mid-century, girls at least learned some embroidery, crochet or knitting.  My own grandmothers still knew how to do it.

Even though paper tissues are more convenient now, a fabric handkerchief is very elegant and just the thing when attending a wedding or other private affair.  The decoration on most of them is gorgeous, whether hand-done or by machine.  Even the printed patterns are lovely or at least colorful and amusing.  If you’re into home sewing, I’ve seen these hankies pieced together and turned into pretty pillow tops, table linens and even blouses, skirts or dresses.

So, another little story unfolds for me to share with you. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER RARE FIND – 1950’s to EARLY 1960’S DEAD STOCK OXFORD SHIRT OF SANFORIZED COTTON

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It’s a plain,white oxford shirt so I won’t bore you with the photo.  The label is worth the whole find and all the details from the 1950’s to early 1960’s – – – – – –

there’s a cellophane collar prop still in place, a paper tag hanging from a button, a paper square in the pocket that was placed there by the final inspector, and an inventory stamp near the hem.  An interesting thing about the fabric (besides being Sanforized) is that the weave gives it stretch, without any of our modern spandex.  An extra tag sewn at the neck advertises this.

The sleeves will be too long for me so, of course, I’ll end up selling it but the best thing is the way that the story still unfolds.  From what I can resource so far, this may have been a British brand.  A find like this is always worth picking up just for the fun!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

JUST FOUND YESTERDAY – A POLISHED COTTON SEVENTIES SUNDRESS

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I’m in frock heaven recently!  The best thing about this dress is the fabric – heavy polished cotton was common in the early mid-century, so it’s great to find it in a late mid-century day dress.  Always love polka dots.  Also, it’s well-tailored with some of the classic tailoring touches that we miss today. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

There’s a 1 1/2″ hem allowance, well-hidden side seam pockets on each hip and it used to have a fabric tie belt, sadly missing now as so often happens.  This style was very popular and well-made up through the mid-1960’s.  Since then, not so much, so I’m happy that this example came a little bit later and was nicely-constructed of quality material.

Well, this discovery just makes me day-dream about what’s next – there is another really nice surprise coming . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LOVE THIS HAND-TAILORED COTTON GOWN IN A PRETTY PEONY PRINT

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The colors are beautiful and the styling unusual, with a faux train detail back and front – falling from the bodice.  My first impression was that this dress may have been made in Hawaii, but I’m not sure.  There is no label and my impression is that it was made by an individual with tailoring expertise or at a small tailoring shop.

The fabric and construction details say true vintage to me, so I’m going with that.  Such a pretty design – it floats from just above the bust-line, swirling down to the hem, which is cut just a little longer in the back to make the dress fall properly.  This is a detail that is not often (if ever) seen in mainstream patterns that have been cut recently – one of the important styling elements that have gone by the wayside in modern times.  Surely true couture houses still observe them(?).

Anyway, gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous.  Very informal but extremely elegant.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM