Category Archives: Post-war

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Frock – for an Evening of Cocktails and Dancing

With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.

I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR 1950’S SYLVIA ANN BRIDAL ORIGINAL FORMAL GOWN

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Here’s the other gem that was hiding out when the yellow pouf formal turned up. (see post 2 days ago). Similar era but entirely different, and not made for the same woman. Hmm . . . . . . .

Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in it’s modest sophistication and with a metal zipper by Waldes, this gown may be from the early 1950’s or even the late 1940’s. Someone loved it, as it’s in near-perfect condition. Worn by a second-time-around bride, bridesmaid, matron of honor, mother of the bride, Prom queen? I guess we’ll never know, but best guess is a one-time event that wasn’t a bit rowdy. I suspect a wedding.

What a wonderful find, also becoming more and more rare. But, clues are still out there. Stay tuned . . . . .

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

1950’S POUF SKIRT WASP WAIST FORMAL FROCK

As you know, I’ve been on holiday from the sleuthing trade since late October but had several finds right before that time and also something recent. So, I’m ready to catch you up while I have a bit of time at Headquarters.

A tiny, tiny, tiny dress and SO Fifties! This was a size 5, maybe in ’55. Now a size 00 or smaller. Perfect condition. This was a really exciting discovery, as these frocks have become more and more scarce. Sadly, there is no label inside excepting the all-important Garment Workers tag. It’s always so much fun, and useful data, to have a maker’s label to research or use to tell more of the story. Labels are always a first-line clue.

Fortunately for the investigation, another gown was hiding in the same spot! Did they belong to the same suspect even though they are quite different? Rare clues sometimes travel together. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LITTLE TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S JACKET AND SKIRT

I love the apple-green button trim on this navy jacket from the 1940’s. Alas, the original skirt was lost, but I was able to find one with an almost-perfect color, fabric weave and true-to-the-era style. That is phenomenal and rare, but not impossible for the Magicvintagespy.

Aside from the cute and iconic design, these pieces are able to be worn as separates as well as a suit.  The fabric, though it may be wool-based, is still 3-season and makes this find a very practical part of my wardrobe.

The only downside, if there is one, is that this material must be dry-cleaned and should be protected from moth damage.  When adding true vintage clothing to your wardrobe, it’s important to remember that some fabrics which look like the today’s synthetics and blends were often made with wool years ago.  The up-side, which is definite, is that wool lasts forever and the construction of these garments probably will, too!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930’S – 1940′ S – EARLY 1950’s

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930'S - 1940'S - early 1950's

I just love this cape and it’s little details.  I’m an animal rights activist and don’t approve of the fur trade in any way, but I have collected old ones from back in the day.

Not sure what the origin of this fur is.  The stripes are clearly dyed, probably to resemble mink.  It’s got these funny little tabs to “close” the bottoms of the arm slits, for a better appearance and added warmth.

Of course, it had patches sewn inside with the owner’s initials embroidered on, along with the maker’s label, both of which are gone now.  Surprisingly, it’s in great condition for its age – still soft and radiant.

These garments are so full of history that they intrigue me as much as any other vintage fashion.  I wear them, too.  Some people would say this is hypocritical but  I would disagree – buying or wearing antique fur or leather does not support the current market for these things unless someone makes an irresponsible decision.  I suggest that we should all be responsible for our choices in the marketplace – so, if you like my vintage fur, don’t use that as an excuse to go out and buy a modern one.  Search for another vintage fur at least 50 or more years old or buy an imitation fur replica and do something kind for wildlife or your pet.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s BOWLING TEAM DRESS / UNIFORM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s BOWLING TEAM DRESS/UNIFORM

Back to wartime or post-war frocks.  This is the cutest rayon dress ever, with that iconic swingy skirt that ’40s dresses often have and a wonderful relic from the ever-popular women’s bowling teams of the war  years.  Just like splashy musical movies, recreational activities like hometown sports were a great distraction from the reality of the times.

Anhauser-Busch or, more likely the local beer distributor, was the team sponsor.  Hence, the Busch Bavarian Beer patches on front and back.  The belt had the player’s name embroidered on it.  Perfect features for costume-wear!

Without the patches, the dress is styled like many day dresses from that time.  This one is probably from the late 1940s or, possibly, the early 1950s.

What a thrill to find it, and in excellent if not near perfect condition!  You truly just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

INCREDIBLE TRUE VINTAGE DRESSY COCKTAIL SWEATER FROM THE 1950’S – MAYBE EARLY 1960’S

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Completely different from yesterday’s cardigan but so much fun!  It’s another must-have vintage sweater to wear with cigarette pants.  A pretty open-weave  Orlon sweater knit with metallic thread design to be worn with a black skirt or slacks at some mid-century party event.  It is absolutely amazing that it’s survived for 60 years in almost unworn condition!

Just like the women of the 1940’s onward, I’m grateful for these lovely acrylic yarns that can be washed in a machine (with care) and don’t have to be stored in a moth-proof container.  Orlon was a revelation and major time-saving blessing to wartime and post-war ladies who still did most of their housework by hand.

Although we’re so used to acrylic fibers now, these early ones were really special in terms of their quality or, perhaps, it is the garment itself that is made so well that the fabric looks great after more than half a century.  I’m sure that I also, again, have to thank the first owner of this elegant top for taking such good care of it.

I’m over the full moon again, and wondering what will turn up next . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM