Category Archives: cocktail dress

Home-Sewn 1940’s Wartime Party Dress

A simple frock, probably made while times were lean and rationing had been imposed on the markets. The fabric is heavy – almost like taffeta but not that real deal. Probably some kind of rayon or acetate. The little splurge is the velveteen neckline, but during WWII any dress like this for an average gal was probably a splurge.

Even on a garment this modest, I love to discover the tailoring features that make it unique. In addition to the neckline trim, notice the little fold-overs that accent the shoulders. Shaping makes the bodice and waist trim and produces the full circle skirt. A deep hem allowance is also a luxury on a dress like this since it adds the option of adding length, adds a little weight to help the skirt sway and just makes the dress look like a more expensive garment.

I think it was made for a teen or a very tiny woman, but who knows the real story. Might even have been a Prom dress – good style for Swing dancing ad Jitterbug. What a fun find! Stay tuned for more knee length and midi cocktail frocks as well as full length gowns . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Interesting Early 1950’s Home-Sewn “Cocktail Dress”

When I spied this frock, I knew it was true vintage but couldn’t actually place it. With a little research I discovered that dresses of this type, worn over a plain slip-dress of some kind, had their niche popularity in the early 1950’s. This one must have been a home-seamstress’s answer to having a more affordable version.

At first I couldn’t decide between the front and back, but when put on Madge, who is a perfectly proportioned modern size 6, it is obvious that the cowl effect fits best in the front and is an elegant style. Depending on how it fits, could also be worn in the reverse. It’s always fun to solve the mysteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SLEEK AND ELEGANT VINTAGE COCKTAIL PARTY LBD – IN 1970’S ISLAND PATIO STYLE

A not-quite-as-little LBD from the 1970’s with casual vibes. I wasn’t going to show this frock until I got into the Snowbird vacation designs, but it’s such a great comparison to the dressier version from yesterday that it was time. Just as sleek, simple and elegant, but of Hawaiian origin with their wonderful cotton fabric. It’s up to the job in the afternoon as well as the evening.

This dress is a perfect example of functional true vintage wardrobe selection for traveling. One dress can do double or triple duty – from casual to sophisticated, even without accessories.

Semi-formal and Formal season are just starting, so back to those archives again next – stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Unique 1950’s True Vintage LBD Cocktail Dress – Party On!

Any time there’s a special event or holiday, a true vintage little black dress will never let you down. This one is so unusual, I had to slip it into the line of bright and colorful frocks that I’ve been showing. Not an easy fit for everyone, but if you’ve got the shoulders to support the neckline and a tiny waist like Stella, it’s absolutely stunning. The drape of the bodice is genius and the fabric flower at the waist adds even more interest without any need to be flashy.

Jewelry should be sophisticated but simple. Diamond stud earrings or gold, or pearls. Absolutely NO statement necklaces to detract from that beautiful neckline and maybe no necklace at all. If more bling is desired, a delicate but luxurious bracelet or watch would be nice. Back in the day beautiful tiny watches in gold or platinum with diamonds were not unusual for those who could afford to splurge on them. Of course, a cocktail ring is always acceptable with a dress like this but, again, the jewelry should not overpower the dress, which is the star of this show. And, the show must go on. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Holiday Party Season is Definitely Here. True Vintage Frocks are a MUST!

1960’s or 1970’s style, these red dresses would take you from the Christmas party through Valentine’s Day cocktails and dinner. Both are pretty and sophisticated with similar styles. Like most sisters, however, they’re also quite different. In the 1950’s and 1960’s a sheer over-layer and skirts with lots of gathers were big style features. Very feminine and emphasized a wasp waist. I love the boat neckline and 3/4 sleeves. In the mid-late 1970’s slim and sleek was a silhouette made easy with Quiana nylon fabric, which skimmed the figure while having lots of movement and supreme comfort while disco dancing. Very unfussy and a perfect backdrop for the chain belt. I’ll look for more party clothes and formal dresses. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

20 YEARS BEFORE NEW WAVE, ELECTRIC BLUE STILETTO HEELS FROM THE EARLY 1960’S

Slightly more extreme silhouette, I’d say that these heels are a few years younger than the pink shoes from yesterday. The metallic blue color is very Las Vegas. They look like patent leather and you might expect that because of their age but I believe that they are some type of synthetic. The brand name was probably printed on the insole but has worn away so completely that I can’t depend on it to help me out. Soles are also a synthetic. Very durable, but not a mark of higher quality. These babies were definitely mid-priced but good to go for a long time.

They’re not as tiny as yesterday’s pink pumps and I can wear them! Great find because I have a sateen semi-formal cocktail dress in the same blue color from the same era. That’s one of the most fun things about sleuthing investigations – finding the clues that fit together. Solves the mystery for that outfit! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Frock – for an Evening of Cocktails and Dancing

With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.

I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS FIND! 1940’S OR EARLY 1950’S 2-PC SWEATER DRESS – VA-VA-VOOM!!

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What a wiggle dress this is!  Marilyn Monroe – move over!!  What a rare find – couldn’t believe it when it appeared (no, I fib. Of course I could).  It’s hand-knitted, as was the one given to me several years ago by my friend Rosalie, who had made it herself in 1952.  Likely, many women who were competent needle-workers did so when this style was popular.

This example is made of the same glossy yarn I wrote about several days ago.  My other garments made from it are casual sweaters, so I was floored to find this lovely dress of the same material!  Just perfect for a sophisticated occasion.  I’m keeping it for wearing at just the right vintage venues (local museum events come to mind) or theme cocktail parties, Halloween  . . . . . . . . ..

Anyway, I’ll be having LOTS of fun with it.  That’s what it’s all about!!!  Too much enthusiasm?  Never . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM