Category Archives: clothing

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S COCKTAIL DRESS – SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Imagine my delight finding this LBD!! Very Mad Men, Jackie O and all that.  It was originally purchased at Saks Fifth Avenue.  What could be a better item to have as a wardrobe staple?  I’ll have fun with this one.

A black crepe in perfect condition, from the early to mid-1960’s. However, this design is so elegant and classic, that it’s timeless.

Back metal zipper and generous hem allowance, careful tailoring throughout and a high-quality decorative trim at the neck and hem.  The embroidered label inside is a real plus, too.

Most of my recent finds have been good fits for me and require little, if any, attention.  Thank you, fashionistas of the past, who loved and looked after your clothing so well . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN,THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE ’70’S DOES ’40’S SUNDRESS FROM WEST GERMANY

IMG_1759This fabulous 100% cotton dress was made in West Germany, obviously   before 1989 and maybe many years before that.  Yes, it’s another new find that’s out-of-season right now in North America and most of Europe, but I love, love, love this anyway and couldn’t wait to show it!

Forties style is so wonderful.  I love the cut-in shoulders that give a halter neckline feel without the bare upper back.  It’s one of my favorite styles and I’ve been so fortunate lately to find some true vintage Forties, too. Shirtwaist ease is always great – red and white polka dots – a nipped-in waist and midi hemline ………… Fashion heaven!!

Plus, it’s got that true vintage West German quality of workmanship and materials that make it a really good investment, no matter what.  It’s in perfect condition and will continue to last.  What could be better? . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE RED VELVETEEN FOR THE HOLIDAYS

Both of these garments were custom-tailored in the late 1950’s to early 1960’s.  Here’s the holiday dress from last year properly modeled on Stella, finally – just look at those wonderful rhinestone buttons and belt buckle.  Try finding those now!  I’d tend to wear it at Christmas, but it would be beautiful at a dressy Thanksgiving dinner, too.

The skirt is a new find, in a slightly deeper red, which I love.  Dresses are great, but I’m always happy to find separates because of their versatility.  Now I have something true vintage to wear with pretty blouses and sweaters.

Black is always superb, but I love red and these unusual finds just put me in the holiday spirit!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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HOW TO SEW WITH TRUE VINTAGE STYLE

Sometimes I come across patterns or notions from the true vintage eras that I love.  It’s worthwhile to pick them up, and I’ll explain why , , , , ,

Whether you sew or not, if you want to copy or have someone else re-make a true vintage garment,  a pattern is a necessity in order to get it right.  Unless you are a master at pattern-making yourself, the original cut of the garment will be impossible to recreate and the result will look like retro – not true vintage.

Beyond the qualities of the true vintage fabric and decorations that are used, the identifying factor of a true vintage design is the cut and, therefore, the way that it fits the body.  There’s no way to cheat on it and the look of the finished garment is unmistakable.

True vintage notions can make a big difference, too.  Buttons, of course, but zippers are probably the most important closure item with regard to getting the fit to be authentic.  Nothing will be more correct than a zipper that is like the original in looks and function.  And, we know how often one of those might need to be replaced . . . . . . .

So, there’s my little rant on that subject.  Of course, there’s lots more to get into if you are a couturier or just an expert needle-worker.  But, it’s worth knowing about, and very interesting when you want to get it perfect.

However, nothing is true vintage except real true vintage, no matter how well it has been reproduced.  But, if you’re very, very good at faking it, it’ll take a master sleuth to expose you . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE END-OF-MOD WOOL SHEATH DRESS

IMG_1737The cut and design of this frock, as unremarkable as it looks (especially in this picture), told me immediately from when and what it was!  It’s a soft wool knit from the late 1960’s.

Beautiful fabric!  And, like the wool dress from a couple of days ago, no itch factor here.  Of course, I’ll still enjoy a gorgeous lingerie slip underneath on a cold, wintery day.  The crocheted trim breaks up the plain lines and the fit is lovely.

So glad that I’ve discovered so many  in-season items recently that are appropriate for this cold that most of us are experiencing now.  For those of you who are not, I’ve still got several summery finds coming up, too.

Later today, I’ll post a little rant about design with pictures  of the true vintage tailoring tools I recently found and how they’re a help to sewing and altering, if that’s something you like to do.  If not, it’s still good to know some of the things that make the difference between  real deal vintage and the copy-cat retro fashions.  Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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HERE’S THE LINGERIE SECRET UNDER THE SECRETARY DRESS

IMG_1738Ho, hum.  Traditional, classic, conservative .  Yes, there’s a time and place for the secretary dress last shown, but then what if you put this underneath?! . . . . . . . . . . . .

I was truly tickled pink to find this!  I have several true vintage slips now with the crystal-pleated flounce at the hem, but not a black one!!  All the colors, plus basic white and beige are wonderful, but black lingerie is ESSENTIAL!

These Forties/Fifties slips are truly beautiful and usually just the right lengths to wear with styles from the same era.  In some cases, they are absolutely necessary in order to make a dress fit and feel the way that it was intended to.

So, when you’re all conservative and straight-laced for the office or whatever, you don’t have to step out of your true vintage mood or give up luxury and quality in order to have a little secret fun . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTGESPY

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VINTAGE HANDMADE SOPHISTICATED LEATHER PUMPS WITH APPLIQUE’ DETAIL

IMG_1724These are some of the most beautiful shoes I’ve seen in a while.  I’ll be able to wear them year-round.  That’s a nice thing about this color . . . . . .

High-quality leather with leather design details and insoles, too  The soles are of Vibram and will last forever.

Although they were made in the Nineties, the craftsmanship is like many decades ago, done by hand.  It’s worth it to look up the Aurora company in New York.  If I ever need a custom job done . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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EIGHTIES DOES FORTIES DRESSY SILK DRESS – IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS

IMG_1679This frock would do nicely for Thanksgiving dinner or a December celebration.  Properly displayed on Stella, you can see the 1940’s cut and tailoring.

Silk makes the drape perfect and the shoulder padding is just right – not too much or too little.  3/4 sleeves and a classic below-the-knee hem length will allow me to go anywhere with approval from ALL the family members.

It’s rare for me to pick up something this “new”, but when I have wardrobe needs, I’m happy to find a piece with well-done, classic retro style.  This dress is by Maggie London and is, technically, true vintage.

You’ve already seen my green velvet treasure finds – there’s more velvet and sparkle to come . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SPRING HAT – SOPHISTICATED AND A LITTLE BIT MOD?

IMG_1750I could see Doris Day in this, about 1960, or a dressed-up Twiggy in 1965.   I suspect that the first guess is more accurate, but you can see some modern elements starting to show as fashion began saying good-bye to tradition.  Kind of between a toque and a pillbox style.

The fabric is more modern, too, with sparkly threads, but the construction is very traditional.  The color is fresh and definitely says Spring or even Easter.  It was a fun hat for women who still bowed to convention, at least on special occasions, but didn’t feel enslaved by it.

Perhaps it was a more mass-produced item, since there is no label from a small designer or specialty shop.  Probably it’s owner picked it up in a department store or women’s clothing chain store.  Specialty hat-makers were on the decline as demand for ladies’ hats began to fall even more than it already had.

Big things were happening in women’s world then . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY IN THE BLUES: A TRUE VINTAGE COTTON HOUSE-DRESS FROM THE FIFTIES, WITH MORE TAILORING TRICKS

IMG_1754IMG_1749Another beautifully-soft cotton print day-time house dress with fun, plastic sculptured buttons.  This one wasn’t made with a belt, but I think I’ll add one. The most interesting thing about this frock is that, like yesterday’s, it tells another story. . . . . . . . .

I don’t know if the seamstress ran out of fabric when cutting her last piece, or whether this was a repair or alteration made later to widen the shoulders in back but these extra pieces of another material were put in very expertly.  When I see the patching and stitching and creative add-ons that mid-century seamstresses used to do at home, it really amazes me!

Little details like this make a find even better, as far as I’m concerned.  And, it’s in an unusual color palette – this kind of all-blue print is not common, so it’s a good addition to my wardrobe and more fun to wear.  Wow, I’m on a roll – love these!!!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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