Category Archives: classic clothing

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

20 YEARS BEFORE NEW WAVE, ELECTRIC BLUE STILETTO HEELS FROM THE EARLY 1960’S

Slightly more extreme silhouette, I’d say that these heels are a few years younger than the pink shoes from yesterday. The metallic blue color is very Las Vegas. They look like patent leather and you might expect that because of their age but I believe that they are some type of synthetic. The brand name was probably printed on the insole but has worn away so completely that I can’t depend on it to help me out. Soles are also a synthetic. Very durable, but not a mark of higher quality. These babies were definitely mid-priced but good to go for a long time.

They’re not as tiny as yesterday’s pink pumps and I can wear them! Great find because I have a sateen semi-formal cocktail dress in the same blue color from the same era. That’s one of the most fun things about sleuthing investigations – finding the clues that fit together. Solves the mystery for that outfit! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY LITTLE PINK PUMPS

Maybe Peggy Sue wore these to the Prom. Entirely possible – Life Stride brand shoes were mid-priced and available at shoe stores in town centers where everybody shopped in mid-century America. A very popular brand; they often sold purses to match the shoes. This was a big deal for women in the 1950’s and early 1960’s and tons of them were sold. Looks like the company, in some form, is still operating. If you shop Walmart, take a look there but I doubt you’ll find anything nearly as wonderful as these, and certainly not with the history . . .. . . . .

Let me know if you have any Life Stride stories. I’d love to have them for the archives and stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Okay, Let’s Stay with the Theme and the Era – a 1950’s – early 1960’s Playsuit

Wow, I’d forgotten when I first photographed this cute set. For those of you who have followed me for a long time, it was before Stella and Giselle, in the early days with Madge! She’s always been a trooper, but this outfit would fit Stella perfectly. I digress . . . . . .

This 2-piece playsuit is right in the timeline with the swimsuit and shorts shown yesterday. And, it’s from California – how perfect is that? Like the other fashions, the emphasis is on CUTE – making teens and women look like little girls. A cropped top that shows your midriff, colorful sketches of drums printed all over the Capri pants and appliqued on the top (typically weird and playful mid-century motif). In today’s reality it almost sounds diabolical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Again, I digress . . . . . . . .

Everything else aside, it’s a vintage fashion collector’s dream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Pretty 1960’s – ’70’s Party Dress by Miss Elliette of California

I pulled this little beauty out of the archives to decide whether she gets a permanent place in the closet or the chopping block . . . . . . . . . . . ..

The 1970’s was not a banner decade for high quality fashion, in my opinion, but this is a lovely example of the mid-priced garments available then so worth collecting. It’s nicely designed and tailored with gathers at the neckline, knife pleating and piping finish at the neck and wrists; a flattering style with well-done tailoring details and features that were popular in some of the better dresses. Of course, a full matching lining in the body is essential.

Alas, it’s not a perfect fit nor the best color for me so it’s off to eBay. Sometimes, spycraft must be ruthless. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A Retro 1930’s Frock that I couldn’t pass up . . . . .

When I spied this dress I was immediately aware of the loyalty to 1930’s style in the fabric and design. Though it’s not true vintage, it was worth collecting. Love the sheer material, the drape and hemline. And, IT FITS ME! Will be seen on the street next summer. The purge does continue. Stay tuned . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Frock – for an Evening of Cocktails and Dancing

With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.

I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR 1950’S SYLVIA ANN BRIDAL ORIGINAL FORMAL GOWN

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Here’s the other gem that was hiding out when the yellow pouf formal turned up. (see post 2 days ago). Similar era but entirely different, and not made for the same woman. Hmm . . . . . . .

Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in it’s modest sophistication and with a metal zipper by Waldes, this gown may be from the early 1950’s or even the late 1940’s. Someone loved it, as it’s in near-perfect condition. Worn by a second-time-around bride, bridesmaid, matron of honor, mother of the bride, Prom queen? I guess we’ll never know, but best guess is a one-time event that wasn’t a bit rowdy. I suspect a wedding.

What a wonderful find, also becoming more and more rare. But, clues are still out there. Stay tuned . . . . .

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM