Category Archives: Cheongsam

1940’s WAR-SHOCK DRESSES & WARTIME FASHION TRENDS

Before 9-11 it was hard for young U.S. Americans to understand the shock and fear that the attack on Pearl Harbor caused in December 1941. The government’s decision to join WWII, which had been happening in Europe and seemed remote to most everyday folks in the U.S., suddenly brought it close to home. The news and the movies began to open the doors on Asian culture and the curiosity of Americans and popular culture started to make this theme trendy. These dresses are from some of my most interesting investigations.

From the 1940’s on, Cheongsam dresses like the lavender one above gained popularity. Mata Hari and Charlie Chan became cultural figures in the media. The beauty and flattering fit of Chinese and Japanese traditional frocks brought interest in Chinatown areas of many cities and non-Asian women began to shop there. Above, see also a Japanese tea dress – fabulous find dating from the 1930’s, made in Hawaii. The purple native traditional gown from Hawaii also found a home in some American woman’s closet after people began traveling again.

But, before that time, women stayed at home. They worried about their family members and friends who were fighting in or living in war zones. They joined the war effort in whatever way they could through their work, volunteerism and spending habits. Of course, some kind of escape was necessary to maintain their sanity. That’s where the movies and dancing filled a void. Whether homemade or found at retail, dancing and cocktails required special dresses and women were very creative despite the restrictions caused by rationing.

Synthetic fabrics were most available and affordable, so this red jacquard frock with puffed sleeves and an elasticized neckline which allowed cold shoulders was home-sewn. A similar style in black was local couture from a specialty shop in Texas and has ruched 3/4 sleeves and shows off the luxury of velvet piping decoration. The pink knitted and crocheted 2-piece cocktail dress was another unusual find which somehow found it’s way to Argentina. It’s made of a heavy, glossy/shiny yarn that allowed some gal to make a glamorous outfit on the cheap.

So fascinating! Such a fun bunch of clues these are. The delight is in the details. More tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

I’M OFF TO OLD CHINATOWN

Finding this dress was a real sleuthing success!  I’d been hunting for a vintage silk Cheongsam  style in my size for years, then uncovered this one at a teeny, teeny price.  The original color was a yellowy beige and there were several brown stains and a little rip near the hem.  But –

The Magicvintagespy knows what to do.  So, I mixed a couple of dye colors that I had leftover from another job and expected to have a soft, neutral brown.  Instead, I got this WONDERFUL lavender/bronze color!  LOVE IT!!!  The stains are history and the hem needed raising anyway et voila’.

The moral :  Put out the vibes and never give up.  KNOW YOUR STUFF, and the perfect find will materialize in your wardrobe.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER FUN MID-CENTURY FIND

IMG_3733

This maxi dress from the ’60’s to ’70’s is a popular style of that time.  In this case, the Hostess Gown has elements of the Asian Cheongsam style dress that is classic and very flattering.  A Mandarin collar, frog closures, a shadow design of fans and flowers and walking slits in the hem hold true to traditional Asian dress design.

In this case, the dress is handmade and has a vintage Talon zipper.  Although it may have been made in some U.S. woman’s home rather than a Chinese tailor’s, the mid-century handiwork of that time adds to the value of a dress made then.  So, another garment a bit large for me, but worth collecting.  Things tend to get more exciting from here on, so –

Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TIMELESS CLASSIC SILK CHEONGSAM SHEATH, FULLY HAND-TAILORED

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Oh, I LOVE this!  Been looking for just the right one for a long time and here it is – in my favorite color (or one of them . . . . . . . . .).

This style dates from the 1920’s in Shanghai, China and the custom-tailoring is so classic and timeless that I can’t date this dress exactly.  It could be true vintage or made recently – but – one rarely sees the pure classic style done so well in recent years.  And, it is 100% embroidered silk, which is also a rarity.  This may not be the case with garments made for  Chinese women, but anything on sale for tourists or the larger market is usually of a lower quality, in my experience.

Anyway, I’m totally thrilled!  So perfect for a cocktail party.  I’ve had this frock in my sights for several years . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM