TRUE VINTAGE SPRING JACKETS & COAT 1940’S – 1980’S

Distinctive tailoring and fabric in ladies’ jackets helps identify their decade in fashion history. Wool jackets with interesting buttons and lots of tailored details were very popular from the late 1930’s into the 1950’s. Not all 1940’s jackets had big, military-style shoulders. The two 1940’s jackets in the first photo are good examples which were both parts of a skirt suit originally. They’d look great with a pair of tailored pants, too. Look at the buttons and pockets that draw attention. Tabs on the cuffs and waistline detail do the same. Both jackets have an easy, flattering fit.

In the 1950’s, jackets became more sporty and body-conscious in many cases. This fitted white leather jacket is a great example. Covered buttons, a wide collar, slash pockets and back vent really draw the eye. It’s sleek and streamlined. The fitting reflects that in the tapered sleeves and fitted waist. Extra room on top which accents she shoulders and bustline gives a bit of an athletic or “va-va-voom” figure enhancement. Love it!

The bright red all-weather textured polyester coat from the 1970’s has many mid-century style features. The stand-out collar design with extended lapels is a “1970’s does 1940’s” style which was very popular in the early Seventies. The fitted Princess cut also harks back to the 1940’s and 1950’s, up through the early 1960’s because it is very classic. Knee-length hemlines on coats reflected the hemlines on skirts and dresses, so were shorter during WWII and the mini-skirt era between the early ’60’s and early ’70’s.

The tan-color 1980’s jacket is also made of leather. It’s a casual style that is more international and eccentric but has a bomber jacket silhouette paired with a 1940’s peplum waist that goes with some types of skirts and pants. Lots of gathers on the shoulders and at the waist give it a roomy fit that lets you wear a sweater underneath if you want to.

Before heading into a chronology of true vintage Spring day dresses, we’ll take a Snowbird vacation tomorrow. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Ladies’ Sweaters 1940’s – 1970’s

Just a few examples of the many styles and varieties in my archives, but this assortment is a good beginning. The most classic, and probably the most numerous of my discoveries, have been cardigans. Finely made cashmere sweaters, like my mother’s yellow one with appliqued flowers, were a staple for the college coed in the late 1930’s to 1940’s. Plain styles were often worn in reverse, with the buttons in back. Up through the 1950’s to the early 1960’s beaded and embroidered cardigans were hugely popular and the designs were endless. Most were commercially-made, many of the best ones in British Hong Kong, but some women decorated theirs at home. My mother bought this yellow sweater jacket by Banff in the early 1960’s.

Of course, there were v-neck, crew neck, and collared sweaters in all sorts of variety. Most were nice, but casual styles made to wear with skirts and, later, with slacks. Wool sweaters provided the most warmth for colder months and, until Orlon became available, almost all sweaters were made of wool. Synthetics were really given a boost during WWII because of the government’s requisitioning of wool for military uniforms.

The turtleneck that we love now didn’t seem to show up too much in everyone’s closets until the early 1960’s. Until then, it was a little more avant guarde or unconventional for the average gal though they were on the scene from the 1920’s. Always a sportswear item, especially from the time women began to dress more casually in the 1940’s, women’s sweaters became less dressy. We’d begin to see themed sweaters like this Las Vegas souvenir from the 1970’s or with prominent monograms, mostly in the ’50’s. Of course, many mid-century women knitted and crocheted tons of styles at home, from super-casual to evening styles.

True vintage sweaters from before the 1970’s when acrylic yarn took over are a rare and fabulous find. Moth damage, pills and snags usually took most of them out of circulation. Though I have many, it’s only possible to show sample at one time. A few ladies’ casual Spring jackets tomorrow – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home for the Mid-Century Holidays: Part 4

Sorry to be so late – trouble with my WordPress account, but so far so good.

Here’s a pretty velvet knit gown from the late 1960’s – early 1970’s which I would say is perfect for at-home, though there is a matching purse! Perfect for Boxing Day, which was yesterday in Great Britain and it’s former colonies. That’s traditionally the day to unbox all the gifts, clean up the mess and relax. This easy-fitting, soft and comfy dress allows for movement. Adds warmth, without being restrictive.

Although it’s very plain, the empire waist and embroidered trim, plus the fabric and zipper allow me to date it. The fact that it was custom-made helps, too. I must give kudos to the seamster who took on the project of creating a matching shoulder bag. That requires some skill and, probably a simple machine to attach the hardware. Cool!

Although it’s Christmas Past now, we’re still in a holiday week and the party spirit will continue in the archived files I will show you in the coming days. It’s so fun to review the clues and data from previous sleuthing investigations! Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home for the True Vintage Holidays – Part 3

It’s Christmas morning, Yay! Time to get down to business in a 1970’s Quiana nylon dress with a little bit of 1940’s style. Although it looks orangey in the photo, it is a brilliant lipstick red color that nylon fabric holds so intensely. A nice mid-century chain belt adds the perfect touch. Appropriate for any gathering, no matter how you do the celebrating. Couldn’t be more perfect for today’s activities – easy to wear, lightweight and comfortable. The dress smoothly transitions to anything you have planned – well, maybe not a game of touch football but you get the idea. Won’t be restrictive during all the cooking, eating, visiting and package opening. You can comfortably sit on the floor with wrapping paper piling up all around you.

Fa la la la la la la la la! Nothing to do today but enjoy. So much to be grateful for and a New Year is just around the corner. Though the weather won’t change much for a while, the sun is kissing us longer each day and true vintage fashion trends will gradually be changing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SNUGGLEY TRUE VINTAGE SLEEPWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR 1950’S – 1970’S

Everybody seems to love red, especially this time of year. It’s certainly a color which can make us feel warmer, which is what we’re beginning to need in a big way now. On the left is a favorite 1950’s pajama set of mine, woven 100% cotton with little fans printed all over. The print would make you think that these must be women’s PJ’s but actually these are a large size boys’! Take a look at the direction of the button closure.

Although I have lots of women’s PJ’s and gowns, my men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are really special. Classic unisex PJ style (though, often, men’s have a fly), but the best feature is that the men’s garments are very sometimes printed with wonderful medallion prints or novelty prints like the one above. A large (16 – 18) vintage boys’ size will fit me well – I wear a ladies 4. A men’s small will usually do OK or can be easily altered. Women’s PJ’s are most often of a solid color nylon or silk or a fine cotton printed with small flowers, decorated with lace or other trim. Really beautiful and comfy, but sometimes a little boring.

However, true warmth comes from robes, and this is where the women’s garments shine. They are more often found in warm fabrics such as plush, chenille and quilting. Women traditionally spent more time at home than men did so ladies’ true vintage robes and dressing gowns are built to be worn for several hours, rather than just after getting out of the bath or shower. Although men’s vintage robes sometimes have nice prints, women’s are more often embellished with embroidery, trim and buttons. Each decade had it’s typical style and popular fabric but the general rules seem to apply to sleepwear and robes from all the decades from the late 1800’s to the present day.

My 1970’s robe above is certainly worthy of Mrs. Claus as she makes breakfast for the elves. (Sorry, but traditional folklore and myths tend to be very sexist.) It’s by Vanity Fair, a company which has made women’s at-home styles and lingerie for decades. I love the pretty style, but the long bell sleeves are very impractical in the kitchen and I don’t think the mid-priced market for this item targeted women who had hired “help” at home. That can be an inherent problem with true vintage fashions – occasionally they are poorly suited to an average lifestyle and can even be uncomfortable at times but that’s a minor consideration and not worth a mention as long as you are in the know. Wouldn’t stop me gathering the evidence for a second. When did practicality ever have anything to do with fashion and style, especially when a holiday or other special occasions are on the horizon? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS DISCOVERY! 1970’S GUNNE SAX PRAIRIE-STYLE FORMAL DRESS

What a great find! It’s always worth investigating; you just never know what evidence might be uncovered. A beautiful Gunne Sax gown, designed by Jessica San Francisco. Robin’s egg blue for Spring.

This frock was worn, probably once, to a formal event or, possibly, to a wedding. In the 1970’s, Prom and wedding-party dresses for young women often looked like this. Gunne Sax was a favorite label of the time and this prairie style was hugely popular. I wonder who cherished and stored her gown for 50 years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S – 1970’S HOUSEDRESS: HOME-SEWN CHRISTMAS FROCK?

During my most recent investigatory episode, this garment is the first that I spied. Aside from the lace trim and piecing on the bodice, there’s nothing remarkable here – no pockets, extra trim or embroidery and the tailoring isn’t exceptional. However, I did zoom in on the fabric. Looks like a heavy woven cotton in a red, green and black plaid. Hmm . . . . . . . . what was in this seamstress’s mind? Holiday cheer? Little House on the Prairie, the winter months? In virtually original condition, it was worth picking up.

So, I got it home and tried it on. It looked very small, but fits me to a T! You’ll see later how good it may look on Stella. (I really miss my assistants when working at satellite locations.) It’s doubtful I’ll keep it in the long run, but it does have it’s own story to tell. More to come. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM