Tag Archives: 1950’s

TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1950’S – MID-1960’S DRESSES

Late Fifties saw slinky knit sheath dresses that carried over the new, easy-care synthetics from the 1940’s. The prints morphed slowly from geometric, atomic shapes back to cute animals, fruits and veggies. This fabric is amazingly comfortable and drapes beautifully but was economical. Common, moderately-priced frocks were made from it.

Just a few years later, lace overlay became the big thing. Dressy day-dresses were often made from it, as well as semi-formal and formal gowns. These were also generally made from synthetic or blended fabrics but probably required dry-cleaning. Better frocks often came from British Hong Kong, where the design and hand-made tailoring made them exceptionally elegant and of higher quality. These dresses were still within the reach of middle-income ladies but were more expensive. See the black dressy sheath with a beaded over-blouse above. The straight black high-neck sheath came from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Then, again from the Brits, came Mary Quant’s Tent Dress in 1964. Although the Mod style had started in the 1950’s, it’s appearance in clothing was totally revolutionary. It brought with it radically shorter hemlines and easy-to-wear, casual shapes. See the light blue, home-sewn version above.

Some styles retained their classic, conservative lines and stuck to neutral or basic tones while bright colors became ever more popular, even in formal garments. While political and social movements became radicalized and changed society, the Hippie, Boho and Prairie styles started to take over in the late 1960’s and carried over into the early 1970’s. Tomorrow we’ll look at some of the ways that popular fashion incorporated these trends into mainstream dressing. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE EARLY 1950’S DRESSY DAY-WEAR

Let’s start with this novel style by a famous French (undoubtedly Paris) designer. The knock-off pictured above was by Nelly Don, a well-known mid-century ladieswear label in the U.S. The belted sheath dress woven of substantial cotton or a blend has a wide detachable peplum which creates this avant garde silhouette. The French designer brought this luxury style out in 1952 and the mid-priced American version followed quickly.

A very pretty semi-sheer dress with a scarf neckline is unusual in an olive green and purple print which I love. Again, it’s belted and fitted as were most of the dresses of this time and follows a shirtdress style.

This green pencil skirt is made in a relatively briefly-used but popular fabric which consists of thin, rayon(?) ribbon that is coiled in a continuous design, appliqued onto another fabric base. Imagine it worn with a pretty, fitted blouse. I have a black skirt suit made in this fabric and a family member owned a short-sleeved dress in a gold color, back in the day.

The shirtwaist dress never lost it’s place and continued into the Fifties and beyond in fabrics which ranged from cotton and cotton blends to rayon and silk. The simplest daywear styles continued to be the housewife’s daily uniform. This one is a slightly upscaled version in a more complex print with embroidered trim and tucks.

This black and white dressed-up sundress would have been appropriate to go on a date, to the Ladies’ Club, Country Club or shopping in the city. It may have been custom-made, as women and professional tailors continued to use their skills this way though not as much out of necessity as during wartime. The Fifties were about being thrifty but also stylish and having more!

Shoe styles carried over from the 1940’s but with sleeker lines. Pumps were a bit more cutaway and more often had sling-backs. Soles and heels were slimmer. Peep toes continued, which I absolutely love. Hairstyles became smaller and neater again as did hats, which continued to be de rigueur for any well-dressed woman. Also, a pair of well-made gloves in a style which complemented your outfit and a short string of pearls with almost anything from casual to dressy outfits were considered to be necessities for elegant style. Handbags adopted many styles but here are a couple of semi-dressy designs that carry over the classic “tapestry” floral design and introduce the decorative metal frames and vinyl covering which began to be more popular.

Tomorrow we’ll stay in the same Forties to Fifties time-frame but focus on casual separates and trends. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE SPRING JACKETS & COAT 1940’S – 1980’S

Distinctive tailoring and fabric in ladies’ jackets helps identify their decade in fashion history. Wool jackets with interesting buttons and lots of tailored details were very popular from the late 1930’s into the 1950’s. Not all 1940’s jackets had big, military-style shoulders. The two 1940’s jackets in the first photo are good examples which were both parts of a skirt suit originally. They’d look great with a pair of tailored pants, too. Look at the buttons and pockets that draw attention. Tabs on the cuffs and waistline detail do the same. Both jackets have an easy, flattering fit.

In the 1950’s, jackets became more sporty and body-conscious in many cases. This fitted white leather jacket is a great example. Covered buttons, a wide collar, slash pockets and back vent really draw the eye. It’s sleek and streamlined. The fitting reflects that in the tapered sleeves and fitted waist. Extra room on top which accents she shoulders and bustline gives a bit of an athletic or “va-va-voom” figure enhancement. Love it!

The bright red all-weather textured polyester coat from the 1970’s has many mid-century style features. The stand-out collar design with extended lapels is a “1970’s does 1940’s” style which was very popular in the early Seventies. The fitted Princess cut also harks back to the 1940’s and 1950’s, up through the early 1960’s because it is very classic. Knee-length hemlines on coats reflected the hemlines on skirts and dresses, so were shorter during WWII and the mini-skirt era between the early ’60’s and early ’70’s.

The tan-color 1980’s jacket is also made of leather. It’s a casual style that is more international and eccentric but has a bomber jacket silhouette paired with a 1940’s peplum waist that goes with some types of skirts and pants. Lots of gathers on the shoulders and at the waist give it a roomy fit that lets you wear a sweater underneath if you want to.

Before heading into a chronology of true vintage Spring day dresses, we’ll take a Snowbird vacation tomorrow. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR THREE-SEASON SKIRT SUIT & HAT & PUMPS

Imagine my THRILL at discovering this never-worn ladies’ suit from the late 1940’s to early 1950’s! Perfect condition, tags still on. Love the wasp waist and strong shoulders. The white trim is so stylish and perfect for Spring, though the medium weight of the fabric makes it wearable on cool Summer and Fall days, too. This beautiful hat could have been made to match, but was found completely separately. How perfect is the color and little round white button and white stripe on the brim?! Although the pumps are not a perfect color match and were made in the 1960’s or 1970’s, I include them because the Spectator style was very popular during this pre- and post-war time frame and is a perfect part of this ensemble.

It’s wonderful when evidence fits together in this way. It’s certain that a hat, some kind of hat, would have been worn with this suit because of the era when it was sold. But, finding the PERFECT hat in this way is rare, though never impossible. That’s one of the things that make the one-and-only Magicvintagespy’s craft so wonderful and unique. More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Golden Dream – A True Vintage early 1960’s Classic Spring Formal Dress

Here’s a rare and beautiful example of a sophisticated sheath style from the Kennedy Era. So flattering. This gown was not headed to the Prom but to a more conservative and formal event, such as an elegant State Dinner, a university Gala or perhaps a play or concert in the city. I love the decoration on the bodice and elbow-length sleeves – not over-done but very pretty and eye-catching.

Although it’s made in the newer, sleeker style, we still see the sheer fabric over opaque material that has been a feature of many, if not most, formal dresses during the 1950’s – ’60s decade. But, keep eyes open. Fashion changes FAST going forward and upcoming posts will show examples of this. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Kennedy Era late ’50’s – early ’60’s Dressy Spring Coat

Imagine wearing this gorgeous and iconic coat to a special party or event. The color is an emerald green, less bluish than in the photo. Perfect for St. Patrick’s Day celebrations or to cover your LBD at the next cocktail gathering.

Glossy fabric with a jacquard pattern. It’s probably a synthetic – maybe acetate. The coat is lined with a more bluish material – more turquoise. Open front, 3/4 length sleeves and this iconic wide collar with a decorative bow – all style features that define the very early 1960’s. Made by a recognizable label, this coat was part of a trend at the time – much like the fine suede coats with mink collars that are of a similar design. I own several and have shown them in the past.

Always fun to see clues repeat themselves in different garments made during the same time frame, and also from decade to decade as fashion trends repeat. More formal and dressy frocks to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Pretty late 1950’s – early 1960’s Spring Formal Dress

We’re definitely ready for COLOR, and this is the time of year for that. Good thing that Winter and early Spring were big times for semi-formal events. While it’s still so cold, people were happy to attend parties and dances to add some excitement to their stay-at-home-as-much-as-possible days. The dress is still white, but there’s greenery peeking out of the snow. Even looks a little like St. Patrick’s Day to me, if Stella is planning ahead . . . . . . . . . .

The skirt is still poufy, but not as stiff and puffy as several years before. Sheer fabric over opaque is still the construction standard. Tailoring is still impeccable and the interior label identifies it as a design by Harry Keiser. There’s a little martini glass embroidered there, too, so this style might have been intended to double as a cocktail dress or perhaps they were the specialty of this company at the time.

No matter what the details, It’s a Party! and our gal is going to have fun in style. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Late 1950’s – Early 1960’s Party Dress with Sleeves!

Such a pretty style and color! In a dark salmon pink, with the unusual sleeve design and waistline embroidered smocking. It’s not an in-your-face sexy style, or even close, but it has all the design hallmarks we’ve been seeing with regard to the fabric, fitted bodice, cinched waist, pouf skirt and tailoring detail. A bit high-waisted, as many of the dresses of the Forties and Fifties tended to be. Perhaps they fit most women’s bodies better at that time. I can never get over the generous hem allowances to die for.

This could have been a prom gown when they were still wearing below-the-knee styles. Maybe even a bridesmaid dress. It’s a real confection, like a strawberry or mid-century powder puff. Makes me think of another holiday that’s coming up soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SNUGGLEY TRUE VINTAGE SLEEPWEAR AND LOUNGEWEAR 1950’S – 1970’S

Everybody seems to love red, especially this time of year. It’s certainly a color which can make us feel warmer, which is what we’re beginning to need in a big way now. On the left is a favorite 1950’s pajama set of mine, woven 100% cotton with little fans printed all over. The print would make you think that these must be women’s PJ’s but actually these are a large size boys’! Take a look at the direction of the button closure.

Although I have lots of women’s PJ’s and gowns, my men’s pajamas from the 1940’s and 1950’s are really special. Classic unisex PJ style (though, often, men’s have a fly), but the best feature is that the men’s garments are very sometimes printed with wonderful medallion prints or novelty prints like the one above. A large (16 – 18) vintage boys’ size will fit me well – I wear a ladies 4. A men’s small will usually do OK or can be easily altered. Women’s PJ’s are most often of a solid color nylon or silk or a fine cotton printed with small flowers, decorated with lace or other trim. Really beautiful and comfy, but sometimes a little boring.

However, true warmth comes from robes, and this is where the women’s garments shine. They are more often found in warm fabrics such as plush, chenille and quilting. Women traditionally spent more time at home than men did so ladies’ true vintage robes and dressing gowns are built to be worn for several hours, rather than just after getting out of the bath or shower. Although men’s vintage robes sometimes have nice prints, women’s are more often embellished with embroidery, trim and buttons. Each decade had it’s typical style and popular fabric but the general rules seem to apply to sleepwear and robes from all the decades from the late 1800’s to the present day.

My 1970’s robe above is certainly worthy of Mrs. Claus as she makes breakfast for the elves. (Sorry, but traditional folklore and myths tend to be very sexist.) It’s by Vanity Fair, a company which has made women’s at-home styles and lingerie for decades. I love the pretty style, but the long bell sleeves are very impractical in the kitchen and I don’t think the mid-priced market for this item targeted women who had hired “help” at home. That can be an inherent problem with true vintage fashions – occasionally they are poorly suited to an average lifestyle and can even be uncomfortable at times but that’s a minor consideration and not worth a mention as long as you are in the know. Wouldn’t stop me gathering the evidence for a second. When did practicality ever have anything to do with fashion and style, especially when a holiday or other special occasions are on the horizon? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SMARTLY TAILORED MID-CENTURY LEATHER JACKET

I love this leather jacket from the 1950’s. Such a flattering fit and cut for comfort, with lots of room across the shoulders and back. Darts at the elbows also make movement easier without binding. Plus, slash pockets at the waist add convenience without adding bulk. So, we’ve got a nipped waistline! Covered buttons are always a plus in the quality department, too.

Just a bit tiny for me, so I had to let it go but the photographed evidence will remain in the files. Stay tuned, as transmissions will continue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM