PART OF MODERN ’50’s – ’60’s LIFE IS TRAVEL – A NEW SENSE OF FREEDOM FOR MIDDLE-CLASS WOMEN

In the late 1950’s and early 1960’s needlework magazines embraced this exciting adventure and symbol of the Good Life and modern prosperity. Women were still mostly “at home”, but were REALLY getting out of the kitchen sometimes. Styles shifted right along with them.

Nothing portrays a life of leisure, well-being and financial freedom better than the ability to travel. This was a revelation for many women and international journeys were truly “another world” for most of them. New activities, of course, require new products and definitely a new wardrobe. The clothing industry, including handicrafts, got right into it and has continued to heavily market wardrobe items for travel ever since.

So, was there anything more thrilling than making an outfit for an upcoming trip across the country or the planet? The dream machine was in high gear and wardrobe, including all accessories, has led the movement. Only, perhaps, cars have had an equally compelling attraction and ability to follow and create culture. But, that’s another blog . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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HOW POPULAR DRESS STYLES FOLLOWED AND PROMOTED CULTURAL CHANGE – 1950’S ERA

In the decade that followed World War 2 the image of women in society had been changed by the independence and social involvement required of them during the 1930’s Depression era and the war effort of the 1940’s. Although our culture still expected most women to be homemakers, the surge in average family income and more modern lifestyles encouraged them to become drivers of the consumer economy, which meant getting out in society more often and more visibly.

A woman who wanted to see herself as a benevolent member of her community often participated in volunteer work and this was a step up in her social standing. Sophisticated wardrobes were a part of the image-marketing aimed toward women. Many were still economical do-it-yourselfers and were avid consumers of craft magazines. Tomorrow we’ll continue the journey as this dream lifestyle expanded in the fashion worlds of mid-century women . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ELEGANT, WARM AND HUMANE TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR FOR A FORMAL OCCASION

Evenings are still cold enough to require a warm coat or jacket over formalwear. A blonde faux mink jacket fills the bill and masquerades beautifully. As a great example of mid-century faux furs, this one appears genuine until the closest examination is made.

Styled and tailored as the best furs have always been, this jacket has a full cut, wide collar, cuffs, slash pockets and decorative buttons. A silky full lining covers you inside. The only break with pure vegan construction is a strip of what I believe is leather that faces the front closure on each side. To the credit of the maker, this addition does a good job of strengthening the foundation for the buttons and buttonholes (super important!) and helps the jacket to fall correctly. Now there are ways of accomplishing this with vegan materials.

Again, this coat demonstrates the garment industry’s post-war/mid-century efforts to make the type of wardrobe items which were formerly luxury goods become available to women of the middle classes. Today this trend has continued to build in many segments of wardrobe manufacture i.e. shoes, handbags and sachels/briefcases as well as cosmetics and personal care products which used to be made wholly or in part of substances harvested from animals (fur, skins, leather, whale oil, wool, lanolin, and more). Humane culture is finally becoming mainstream. How Woke of us!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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SAPPHIRE BLUE AND SATIN, TOO . . . . . . . . .

This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.

The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Bye -Bye Winter. Let’s look at some short sleeves from the early 1960’s.

Made of the slinky knit stuff that was soooooooo comfy to wear, this day dress looks smashing on Stella, as always. I love it when a find has such a cute, interesting label. I also love these funky abstract mid-century prints that are really wonky. You can take an afternoon trying to figure out what they might be. Nothing much more to say here – it’s got a nylon zip up the back. Funny how some companies didn’t get away from the metal zippers until the mid-Sixties and some started using them in the Fifties . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

IT’S 1960 AND WE’VE GOT A HANDBAG SORTED; THE DRESS, THE HAT, THE SHOES – JUST A COUPLE MORE THINGS BEFORE HEADING OUT THE DOOR . . . . . . . . .

A pretty handkerchief and a pair of white gloves. Can’t go anywhere without those. One never knows when a sniffle might appear or it might be necessary to shake hands. The collar is a matter of choice if your dress or blouse needs a little extra style before presenting yourself to the world.

Such a relief not to have those worries now. Also, how many times in literature have a dropped handkerchief or a single glove been the undoing of a lady’s reputation? And today, with DNA analysis, she wouldn’t have a chance. As always, agents, take care. The equinox is a powerful time – especially this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES WERE A BIG PART OF THE CONTENTS OF ANY WOMAN’S . . . . . . .

From the 1950’s through the 1970’s some favorite styles and brands were seen on the street every day. Though not as roomy as many of the mini-suitcases that are popular now, there was always room for a compact, mirror, lipstick, coin purse and maybe a plastic rain hat – especially before the 1970’s. A more sophisticated lady might have a notepad with attached pen or pencil, a wallet which also held her checkbook and a few mints for after lunch.

The purse or handbag was always an integral part of a mid-century woman’s ensemble. Often it matched her gloves, shoes or hat. These considerations were probably more important than any kind of status symbol they displayed, though an expensive and well-maintained bag has always been seen as an indicator of social status and fashion-consciousness. The downside today is that it makes an agent easier to spot; so always take care not to leave clues behind . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A COMMON MID-CENTURY MAN’S “ACCESSORY” – THE PIPE

We’ll hang with the men for a day or two more. Though it might be odd to think of a pipe as a wardrobe accessory, it would seem to be just that when you think of so many vintage advertising photographs, not for tobacco products but showing a mid-century guy with a pipe. A pipe used to say volumes about a man – his tastes and habits and even his sense of style. What a rich clue – especially in today’s era of DNA evidence.

On top of that, this specimen still has its packaging from that iconic Chicago department store, Marshall Field & Company. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at what the suspect might have been wearing while enjoying a smoke at the end of his day. Stay tuned

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

During the vetting process I found two bits of evidence that seem to go together well. The dress is an unfinished project which is no mystery as it was given to me by the mother of a friend, who was an exceptional tailor. She even passed on the original pattern, which could have sleeves or not. The best thing about this design is the interesting pockets. When finished, it would be a very smart day dress.

In which case, only a coordinating hat would do for a late 1950’s – early 1960’s ladies’ ensemble. Just right for a Spring or Summer day in the city.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM