TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES WERE A BIG PART OF THE CONTENTS OF ANY WOMAN’S . . . . . . .

From the 1950’s through the 1970’s some favorite styles and brands were seen on the street every day. Though not as roomy as many of the mini-suitcases that are popular now, there was always room for a compact, mirror, lipstick, coin purse and maybe a plastic rain hat – especially before the 1970’s. A more sophisticated lady might have a notepad with attached pen or pencil, a wallet which also held her checkbook and a few mints for after lunch.

The purse or handbag was always an integral part of a mid-century woman’s ensemble. Often it matched her gloves, shoes or hat. These considerations were probably more important than any kind of status symbol they displayed, though an expensive and well-maintained bag has always been seen as an indicator of social status and fashion-consciousness. The downside today is that it makes an agent easier to spot; so always take care not to leave clues behind . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A COMMON MID-CENTURY MAN’S “ACCESSORY” – THE PIPE

We’ll hang with the men for a day or two more. Though it might be odd to think of a pipe as a wardrobe accessory, it would seem to be just that when you think of so many vintage advertising photographs, not for tobacco products but showing a mid-century guy with a pipe. A pipe used to say volumes about a man – his tastes and habits and even his sense of style. What a rich clue – especially in today’s era of DNA evidence.

On top of that, this specimen still has its packaging from that iconic Chicago department store, Marshall Field & Company. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at what the suspect might have been wearing while enjoying a smoke at the end of his day. Stay tuned

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

During the vetting process I found two bits of evidence that seem to go together well. The dress is an unfinished project which is no mystery as it was given to me by the mother of a friend, who was an exceptional tailor. She even passed on the original pattern, which could have sleeves or not. The best thing about this design is the interesting pockets. When finished, it would be a very smart day dress.

In which case, only a coordinating hat would do for a late 1950’s – early 1960’s ladies’ ensemble. Just right for a Spring or Summer day in the city.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY MID-CENTURY AND ANTIQUE COSTUME JEWELRY

Since I’ve veered into the area of accessories a bit, I decided to open the jewelry archived evidence file. It’s a big one, as jewelry pieces are often found at investigation sites. That’s especially true when it comes to mid-century pieces, which were so popular during the 1950’s and 1960’s and considered an essential part of the wardrobe of any well-dressed woman of the time. However, items always appear from years before and after, since women have always loved jewelry and will never stop.

Here’s an assortment of bling that might have been seen on any given day in 1960. All are costume and most are unbranded. These everyday types of clues are not as likely to be the element which makes or breaks a case but agents know better than to leave any stone unturned, and you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MID-CENTURY COPPER BRACELET TO COMMEMORATE THE NEW QUEEN ELIZABETH II

A sad file to retire, but this case is definitely closed. However, in the early 1950’s costume jewelry made of copper was a big fad so what better material to use for this chunky souvenir bracelet? All around the world, women were admiring the young Elizabeth who had just been coronated. She was a pretty mother of young children with whom it was easy to identify, at least from that aspect of her life. Like with many celebrities, popular fashion trends grew out of her personal style and what the rest of us saw as British culture. It wasn’t just the Brits or citizens of the British Commonwealth who were captured by the royal mania. It has died down over the years but still, take a look at the tabloids stacked up in the grocery check-out lane. Why should we give a hoot? but we do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MORE TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES – SOUVENIR HANKIES

Before small packets of tissues became available (and even afterward – humans don’t like change) every woman carried a hankie in her handbag and collected dozens of them over her lifetime. Like ties, many friends and family selected handkerchiefs as a standard gift item for birthdays, Christmas and Mother’s Day, etc. They also became popular souvenirs of places where she’d traveled, as we see above – or someone may have brought them back from a trip as a present. Usually these weren’t used every day and were kept as mementos.

These types, especially, can be powerful clues when working a case. However, there are many categories of handkerchiefs in my archive files so you may be seeing more. Stay tuned . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM