HOW TO SEW WITH TRUE VINTAGE STYLE

Sometimes I come across patterns or notions from the true vintage eras that I love.  It’s worthwhile to pick them up, and I’ll explain why , , , , ,

Whether you sew or not, if you want to copy or have someone else re-make a true vintage garment,  a pattern is a necessity in order to get it right.  Unless you are a master at pattern-making yourself, the original cut of the garment will be impossible to recreate and the result will look like retro – not true vintage.

Beyond the qualities of the true vintage fabric and decorations that are used, the identifying factor of a true vintage design is the cut and, therefore, the way that it fits the body.  There’s no way to cheat on it and the look of the finished garment is unmistakable.

True vintage notions can make a big difference, too.  Buttons, of course, but zippers are probably the most important closure item with regard to getting the fit to be authentic.  Nothing will be more correct than a zipper that is like the original in looks and function.  And, we know how often one of those might need to be replaced . . . . . . .

So, there’s my little rant on that subject.  Of course, there’s lots more to get into if you are a couturier or just an expert needle-worker.  But, it’s worth knowing about, and very interesting when you want to get it perfect.

However, nothing is true vintage except real true vintage, no matter how well it has been reproduced.  But, if you’re very, very good at faking it, it’ll take a master sleuth to expose you . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE END-OF-MOD WOOL SHEATH DRESS

IMG_1737The cut and design of this frock, as unremarkable as it looks (especially in this picture), told me immediately from when and what it was!  It’s a soft wool knit from the late 1960’s.

Beautiful fabric!  And, like the wool dress from a couple of days ago, no itch factor here.  Of course, I’ll still enjoy a gorgeous lingerie slip underneath on a cold, wintery day.  The crocheted trim breaks up the plain lines and the fit is lovely.

So glad that I’ve discovered so many  in-season items recently that are appropriate for this cold that most of us are experiencing now.  For those of you who are not, I’ve still got several summery finds coming up, too.

Later today, I’ll post a little rant about design with pictures  of the true vintage tailoring tools I recently found and how they’re a help to sewing and altering, if that’s something you like to do.  If not, it’s still good to know some of the things that make the difference between  real deal vintage and the copy-cat retro fashions.  Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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EIGHTIES DOES FORTIES DRESSY SILK DRESS – IN TIME FOR THE HOLIDAYS

IMG_1679This frock would do nicely for Thanksgiving dinner or a December celebration.  Properly displayed on Stella, you can see the 1940’s cut and tailoring.

Silk makes the drape perfect and the shoulder padding is just right – not too much or too little.  3/4 sleeves and a classic below-the-knee hem length will allow me to go anywhere with approval from ALL the family members.

It’s rare for me to pick up something this “new”, but when I have wardrobe needs, I’m happy to find a piece with well-done, classic retro style.  This dress is by Maggie London and is, technically, true vintage.

You’ve already seen my green velvet treasure finds – there’s more velvet and sparkle to come . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY IN THE BLUES: A TRUE VINTAGE COTTON HOUSE-DRESS FROM THE FIFTIES, WITH MORE TAILORING TRICKS

IMG_1754IMG_1749Another beautifully-soft cotton print day-time house dress with fun, plastic sculptured buttons.  This one wasn’t made with a belt, but I think I’ll add one. The most interesting thing about this frock is that, like yesterday’s, it tells another story. . . . . . . . .

I don’t know if the seamstress ran out of fabric when cutting her last piece, or whether this was a repair or alteration made later to widen the shoulders in back but these extra pieces of another material were put in very expertly.  When I see the patching and stitching and creative add-ons that mid-century seamstresses used to do at home, it really amazes me!

Little details like this make a find even better, as far as I’m concerned.  And, it’s in an unusual color palette – this kind of all-blue print is not common, so it’s a good addition to my wardrobe and more fun to wear.  Wow, I’m on a roll – love these!!!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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HOME-SEWN VINTAGE SUNDRESS WITH SURPRISING “MYSTERY” TAILORING

IMG_1748This frock just looked like a plain, old cotton sundress – rather inexpertly made – and I almost passed it by.  The fabric felt kind of stretchy.  OK, right – lots of today’s fabric feels kind of stretchy because it has Spandex built in  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

But, the fabric also told me that it wasn’t recently made.  When I looked more closely, it became apparent that the entire dress had been cut on the bias!

Take that, Spandex!!  The tailoring trick for adding some give, drape and a fabulous, molded fit that was so popular in the 1930’s was used by this seamstress to make her summer frock unique.  And, it will probably look killer on! Can’t wait to try that . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A REALLY NEAT CLASSIC 1950’S HOUSE DRESS FIND!

IMG_1735I just love the fun cotton prints on so many mid-century house dresses. The sleeve cuffs are fun, too.  Can’t wait for warmer weather!

Although the original belt is missing, it will look nice  with a black one or, maybe, there’ll be extra fabric in a hem or side seam to make a matching replacement. This is a great find, in such good condition.

Mid-century women wore these so much, every day, that it’s always a treat to find one that didn’t wear out!  Back to the future again . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S COCKTAIL DRESS – TRIMMED IN MARABOU FEATHERS

IMG_1743Here’s my neat-o find from yesterday.  This is the best photo I could get, so hang with my description.

A classic wool crepe cocktail frock in an unusual style.  Cocktails? Dinner? Theater?  I guess it could be designed for any of these.  Usually dresses of this sort are sleeveless and at least a little bit revealing, but this one is completely different.

Styled as a back-zip sheath with a bateau neckline – very conservative – but revved up by the sleeves.  They are the best part of all:   3/4 length, with a slit in front up to the elbow joint, and trimmed all around with marabou.  They would call for long, beautiful gloves and/or a diamond bracelet or watch because that’s where the attention is focused.

Fully lined in a soft, woven material – this dress is made to be worn during colder weather when the sleeves and wool content would feel welcome.  It’s really nice to have a party or dress-up piece like that instead of having to resort to wearing dress pants or a long skirt and sweater during winter weather.

So I find, again, that there can always be something interesting hiding around every corner . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE DRESSY DAY DRESS FROM THE EARLY 1950’S

IMG_1731This really neat find comes out of the “I Love Lucy” era.  The skirt is somewhat wider than it shows, but not a circle skirt – a bit more refined and subdued dressy shirtwaist style.

Whether it was commercially made or home-made, many of the tailoring details have been done by hand.  The application of the trim in front is an intriguing conundrum – done partly by hand and partly by machine, in a mysterious manner that defies imagination.

The fabric is a rayon weave with a bit of gloss and body, rather than a fluid drape. It’s so interesting to explore the different fabric materials, weaves and finishes – especially from the era from pre- to post-WWII.  Every era has it’s fabulous fabrics, but that time seems to have a lot of them.

I’ve really been on a roll here, and it continues.  Keeping my spyglass on the trail  . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE 1940’S WAR-TIME DAY DRESS

IMG_1730I love, love, love this one!  Custom-tailored (probably at home), it’s got ’40’s design details and, of course, shoulder pads.  Stella will absolutely flip!!!!!

The fabric is a kind of poly-type synthetic in a flower print.  Signs are that it was made some time in the midst of WWII.  Just a fun and practical frock to wear while she was carrying on with the day-to-day.

Best of all, it fits . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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1940’S ATOMIC PRINT SWISHY RAYON DAY DRESS – FABULOUS FIND!!!!!

IMG_1736This dress has a huge skirt that flows to mid-calf. The fabric feels like whipping cream pouring through your fingers.  True vintage synthetics from the Forties are just indescribable – you have to see and feel them for yourself.

This day dress was custom-tailored at home, I would guess.  The time frame is late 1940’s to early 1950’s.  It will look so great on Stella.

It’s been a while since I discovered a true vintage frock from the Forties.  This week I’ve found two!  This is SO much fun!!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM