Category Archives: elegant

FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON! TIME FOR MY TRUE VINTAGE WOOL DRESSES

Another chance to love that red. Okay, I give in. I don’t pull out the wool clothing unless it’s necessary and can usually avoid the deep cold because of frequent relocations. But, a little unpacking reminds me how much I love these wiggle dresses from the late 1950’s – early 1960’s. For the jumper on the left (yes, this is what a sleeveless dress worn over a blouse or sweater is called in the United States) I was fortunate to find a turtleneck in the perfect color to coordinate with the tweedy fabric. I love the HUGE pearl buttons down the front – so much a sign of those times, as compared to the thin, easily broken pearl buttons which were popular in the ’90’s.

The wiggle fit is also characteristic of this era; maybe a little warmer, too. Of course, unless there’s a smooth lining, you’d also need a slip underneath which adds another layer of warmth. Attractive tailoring details are always a plus. Although vintage wool garments sometimes feel a little heavy and confining compared to what we’re used to today, the closest similarity I’ve ever come across are the better quality heavy polyester knit dresses and pantsuits of the early 1970’s. Both added warmth, good tailoring and wrinkle-resistance and are welcome when facing true winter weather. Easy storage that doesn’t require protection from moths is great, too, but in the final analysis nothing beats the quality, durability and elegance of well-made true vintage woolens. I thank our furry friends (and the shellfish which create pearl), and am grateful that we now are developing excellent humane and ethical alternatives.

More Xmas red and seasonal true vintage on the way. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE COAT, FROM THE LATE 1950’S TO 1960’S. LET’S LIGHTEN UP A LITTLE!

For the milder climes, a car coat. This time it’s suede instead of wool, but still with the dressy mink collar and showy buttons. As I’ll show later, leather jackets for women, from Western-wear to dressy styles, were a big thing in the early to mid-Sixties, worn by more and more middle-income women. Usually of a tailored, but casual style and gradually dropping the fur excepting for the hoods of parkas and up-market leather coats and ski jackets.

I’ll continue to focus on seasonal items during this shift from Autumn to Winter and with a nod to the Holidays and vacations. Excepting in the news, nothing controversial happening here but intrigues have a way of appearing spontaneously. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE WINTER COAT MOVIE STAR. MORE EARLY 1960’S LUXURY

Love that red! I was REALLY thrilled to discover this one. Open-front styling in a Kennedy era coat made it a fashionable wardrobe essential for any city gal in the early 1960’s. I can hardly imagine braving Chicago winds or San Francisco drizzle with this one-button closure, but being a’ la mode has always won over practicality with women, especially in decades past. Thank goodness we are now free of that social pressure and can dress as we please without widespread criticism. No fur trim is a plus, though now I wouldn’t buy wool, either.

Anyway, what’s not to love about this beautiful vintage garment? The easy fit of this style is comfortable and less binding over layers worn beneath. The original label confirms that Forstmann was a high-end brand and worth the investment. This one has held up beautifully for over 60 years with only a very few tiny moth nibbles in inconspicuous places. ( OK, they’ve got to feed their babies, too. ) It has the necessary beautiful lining and slash pockets on the side seams.

I’m now in a secure location, if briefly, so will be able to continue transmissions before the next relocation. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MINK COLLAR ON A FINE TRUE VINTAGE CASHMERE COAT RAISES THE STATUS TO LUXURY LEVEL

Again, warmth is the keynote here but glamor is the melody. Beautiful fashioning and two of the most desired materials made this 1950’s – early 1960’s coat a high-end item. We’ve already discussed the humane and ethical problems with fur but cashmere is another atrocity which must be avoided in any modern retail items. There are alternatives now which look and feel like authentic cashmere but are man-made. More iconic coats coming, so stay tuned. I will be changing locations soon, so there may be a brief break in transmissions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Frock – for an Evening of Cocktails and Dancing

With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.

I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another True Vintage Accessory – Fabulous Spanish-made Boots

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These beauties were made in 1979! Wow, do I ever love them!! Soft, supple glove leather with leather soles and heels. All the beautiful workmanship that was expected in European-made footwear. Shoes from Spain and Italy, especially. Not sure if that’s true now, but it certainly was up to a couple of decades ago. Still have the original everything and they’re going strong!

Oldies really are the best goodies! And, on top of that, they don’t contribute to animal cruelty or inhumanity in the marketplace today. True vintage purchases, especially from a reputable charity shop or individual (do your research) is VEGAN and responsible. That can go for anything made of leather, skins or fur several decades ago. We can appreciate and get service from these vintage items without doing any harm to life or the environment today. That’s how to enjoy the best of the best. Stay tuned . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

POST-WAR 1950’S SYLVIA ANN BRIDAL ORIGINAL FORMAL GOWN

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Here’s the other gem that was hiding out when the yellow pouf formal turned up. (see post 2 days ago). Similar era but entirely different, and not made for the same woman. Hmm . . . . . . .

Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in it’s modest sophistication and with a metal zipper by Waldes, this gown may be from the early 1950’s or even the late 1940’s. Someone loved it, as it’s in near-perfect condition. Worn by a second-time-around bride, bridesmaid, matron of honor, mother of the bride, Prom queen? I guess we’ll never know, but best guess is a one-time event that wasn’t a bit rowdy. I suspect a wedding.

What a wonderful find, also becoming more and more rare. But, clues are still out there. Stay tuned . . . . .

 

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM