Category Archives: dressy

Another 1940’s Frock – for an Evening of Cocktails and Dancing

With ruched sleeves and velvet ribbon decoration on black taffeta, the label tells me that it was sold from a ladies-wear shop in Texas, where it was discovered. A pretty dress with lots of room to move, from a time when dressing up for cocktails and dancing to live music was probably more popular than it is today. Everyone was exuberant over the end of the WWII rationing that, for one thing, had made extravagant clothing unavailable. We apparently owe the title of “Cocktail Dress” for early-evening semi-formal frocks to Christian Dior, beginning in the post-war 1940’s when hemlines went down again and showy tailoring details came back.

I’ll need to check on how it fits me to decide it’s fate. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 100% SILK TAILORED WASP WAIST GOWN

Of course, I couldn’t pass up this Asian(?) beauty when I discovered it although I don’t know it’s history. There’s no label and it looks unworn so Where and When did it originate? The zipper gives me my best clue – it’s a Talon, in the style of the 1960’s and 1970’s – but not a definite answer, since this frock was hand-tailored.

The fabric, also, is a clue – pure silk with gold embellishments – which brings to mind others I have seen in garments made by Asian and Middle Eastern tailors; sometimes overseas and sometimes in North America. I love a mystery, but let’s get down to the real brass tacks. What makes this dress so exceptional and worthy of being categorized as True Vintage?

  1. Professional hand-tailoring which includes traditional features such as strap holders for undergarments sewn into the shoulders, other hand-finishing details and a full lining.
  2. True vintage styling most popular in previous decades i.e. wasp waist, ruching and midi length.
  3. The vintage Talon zipper. True, the maker may have saved this from previous times but still noteworthy.

So, there you have the initial conclusions of the investigation. Further clues may be uncovered in the future but this is enough to justify the acquisition. It’s a gorgeous example of tailoring history and garment design. However, the purge continues and it’s not a perfect fit for Moi, so off to the public auction house it has gone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1950’S POUF SKIRT WASP WAIST FORMAL FROCK

As you know, I’ve been on holiday from the sleuthing trade since late October but had several finds right before that time and also something recent. So, I’m ready to catch you up while I have a bit of time at Headquarters.

A tiny, tiny, tiny dress and SO Fifties! This was a size 5, maybe in ’55. Now a size 00 or smaller. Perfect condition. This was a really exciting discovery, as these frocks have become more and more scarce. Sadly, there is no label inside excepting the all-important Garment Workers tag. It’s always so much fun, and useful data, to have a maker’s label to research or use to tell more of the story. Labels are always a first-line clue.

Fortunately for the investigation, another gown was hiding in the same spot! Did they belong to the same suspect even though they are quite different? Rare clues sometimes travel together. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT, TINY BEADED EVENING PURSE FIND! MID-CENTURY MAGIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Always such a pleasure to discover these little beauties. Made by a well-known Japanese maker from the mid-1900’s, these small handbags were almost always assembled and decorated by hand. This one is especially tiny, and flat. It has room only for a key, a small amount of money or a charge card, and maybe a small comb and/or lipstick. Just the bare essentials. Almost like some made in the 1920’s and 1930’s but I would place this one from the 1960’s.

Silk or rayon body, with mono-tone black bead decoration, a metal snap closure and an unusual fabric handle. On close examination there are a few beads missing but that will be no problem to fix.

I’ve found so many, but this one is unique! What’s next? Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RECENT 1960 FINDS: TWO VERY DIFFERENT EVENING LOOKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

First, a home-tailored dressy frock. It’s sweet as can be in a common design from 1960 + or – 2 or 3 years. But, IN YOUR FACE RED! The fabric is a medium-heavy jacquard weave. The style is modest but form-fitting and fits me like a glove. The original pattern would have been about a size 12 but now is a modern 4. You can see why I miss my mannequins – it would look stunning on statuesque vintage size 10 Stella (a modern 2) and movie starlet perfect on size 4 Giselle.

What makes it extra special? It’s in perfect condition and very well-made by someone with experience. Has a big hem allowance which is finished off with matching hem tape. The fitting darts are well-done and the decorative bow under the bustline is well-constructed and properly attached. The thing I like most, though, is that there are gussets in the armholes! That is an older tailoring technique frequently used in the 1950’s and before that gives the underarm area a little extra ease and avoids some of the wear and tear that is often seen where the underarm seams meet on a dress or blouse. However, gussets do have some corners and have to be properly done to avoid the same problems with the seams. Anyway, I just love finding these specialty features that tell a lot about the tailor and help to date garments. This one was perfect for dinner, dancing or any special date.

My next find is a lingerie dressing gown of roughly the same age – maybe a tad newer. The label is difficult to read after many washings but says Queentex, a brand which I have never seen before and may have been specific to Canada, where I happen to be sleuthing now. What’s not to love about it? A two-layer construction, with opaque material covered by a sheer, lightweight over-dress. Fabric is a substantial, glossy nylon typical of better lingerie pieces of that time. The condition is almost perfect. It’s a lovely aqua blue color with darker blue embroidery on the front bodice. The neckline closes with a fabric loop and little pearlized button. Ruffles around the collar and the bottom of the over-dress I can do without, but that’s just me. The design does call for some extra attention in those locations. This garment was perfect for before-bedtime relaxing when she’s out of her frou-frou outfit and make-up. Could have been worn by the same gal size-wise. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MY FAVORITE 1940’S – EARLY FIFTIES PLATFORM SLING-BACK’S IN SUEDE

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I have so many pairs of shoes that I absolutely love, but these are truly favorites.  So versatile, so comfortable and so “Forties”.

All-leather construction, of course, and well-made.  I even wore them one day walking in a parade on city pavement for a couple of hours, wearing a true vintage dress.  They stood up beautifully and didn’t hurt my feet!

So, I’ll have these for life.  Lovely to not have to say good-bye to favorites – I can just have them repaired eventually.

Ah, the beauty of true vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Morgana Martin, the Magicvintagespy

Blog:  Magicvintagespy.com

Book:  How to Find the Best in Vintage Fashion available on Amazon.com

A Few 1930’s -1940s – early 1950’s Wardrobe Staples

A Few 1940s Wardrobe Staples

Here are a few items that I ran across by surprise – from the 1940s (or so).  All perfect finishes for a wartime or post-war costume.  Mary-jane all leather shoes (always a classic), Capezio soft leather dance or casual flats and a couple of simple woven bags from the Depression era or time of wartime rationing – a drawstring and one with a metal zip in the top.  It’s fun to find things in such good condition (and at very good prices). You just never know . . . .

Morgana Martin, the magicvintagespy

Blog:  Magicvintagespy.com

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS – STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940’S / 1950’S

MAJOR GLAM IN TRUE VINTAGE FURS - STOLE/CAPE AND JACKET FROM THE 1940'S / 1950'S

Daytime into evening glamour for some well-dressed women back in the day.  I just love the details and distinctive style of these.

Unmistakably true vintage, they’re extremely versatile today when we might wear them with anything from jeans to evening clothing.  And, of course, a perfect final touch to any period costume.

Naturally, they’re beautifully finished inside, with the original owner’s initials sewn to the lining.  The little pockets on the front of the cape are an interesting feature – and that BIG button closure – AND the huge cuffs on the ’40’s jacket – LOVE!

Since supporting the current market for new furs is a major no-no for anyone who values animal rights, as I do, I’m grateful for the excellent imitation furs that are being made now and that the sales of new real furs seem to be diminishing – at least in the U.S.  I hope that’s true.

It’s OK to enjoy these pretty designs from a half-century ago for their place in fashion history and beautiful craftsmanship.  I never get tired of wondering and imagining about the origins and histories of the lovely garments I find, and how to wear them now . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930’S – 1940′ S – EARLY 1950’s

TRUE VINTAGE FUR CAPE FROM THE 1930'S - 1940'S - early 1950's

I just love this cape and it’s little details.  I’m an animal rights activist and don’t approve of the fur trade in any way, but I have collected old ones from back in the day.

Not sure what the origin of this fur is.  The stripes are clearly dyed, probably to resemble mink.  It’s got these funny little tabs to “close” the bottoms of the arm slits, for a better appearance and added warmth.

Of course, it had patches sewn inside with the owner’s initials embroidered on, along with the maker’s label, both of which are gone now.  Surprisingly, it’s in great condition for its age – still soft and radiant.

These garments are so full of history that they intrigue me as much as any other vintage fashion.  I wear them, too.  Some people would say this is hypocritical but  I would disagree – buying or wearing antique fur or leather does not support the current market for these things unless someone makes an irresponsible decision.  I suggest that we should all be responsible for our choices in the marketplace – so, if you like my vintage fur, don’t use that as an excuse to go out and buy a modern one.  Search for another vintage fur at least 50 or more years old or buy an imitation fur replica and do something kind for wildlife or your pet.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

1980’s DOES ’40’s – ’30’s GLAM RAYON VELVET GOWN

This example is one of the few cases where picking up a more modern garment is worthwhile.  Although it’s definitely retro and not expensively made, this gown has so many of the true-to-style elements that evening frocks from the 1930’s and 1940’s did – I was delighted to see how much of the styling the designers had gotten “right” and couldn’t resist it as a great costume.

For Halloween or a historical play it will be lots of fun and fits me well.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM