Tag Archives: shirt

EARLY 1970’S TAILORED SHIRT

Boring old shirt, right? Wrong. Let’s start with the most important characteristic: 1. MAKERS LABEL/ BRAND: Labels are made of soft cloth and attached at the neckline, firmly stitched along two sides. Fabric content, wrinkle resistance and wash-ability are clearly marked. Information is embroidered on the cloth, rather than printed, which will last longer. Any brand which identifies itself as “Shirtmakers” is likely to be of higher quality in all respects. There are no other tags in side seams. These labels won’t bother the wearer or easily come loose. The name Ms. SERO clearly identifies it as being a 1970’s brand, when the Women’s Liberation movement was “new” again, gaining popularity, and the title Ms. was beginning to replace the use of Miss or Mrs..

2. FABRIC: The plaid is beautiful. The material has a light, very silky-soft hand. Part of this must be age, but part is due to the fact that this fabric is tightly-woven. It’s a poly/cotton blend, which adds washing convenience, but it’s obviously a higher quality textile, also. Wrinkle resistant fabric was a slightly more upscale feature at that time, as today. The mystery of its history is deepened by the appearance of a shadow stain illuminated by the digital camera photo. The quality of the fabric will be reflected in how well it will release the stain. That will require further investigation, as it was obviously overlooked when the evidence was found. Doesn’t look like blood, but . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3. STYLE/DESIGN: The Peter Pan collar, of course, the plaid and the basic menswear cut; Classic elements of style which are often seen throughout the decades, though the Peter Pan collar design originated in 1905 and was first used in children’s clothing. It didn’t become iconic to women’s garments until the Pre- and Post-WW2 mid-century eras. Elements of menswear styling have been seen in women’s clothing ever since women began wearing shirts and pants.

4. TAILORING DETAILS: After the fabric quality passes muster, this is where the rubber really hits the road. The best clothing, even in very plain styles, will have “tells” indicating their value in fine tailoring methods. TOPSTITCHING can be a design element when it’s visible on the outside, but also strengthens seams and attachments. See the stitching on the collar, which will help it to maintain its shape without stiffening. The stitching is very even in appearance – a good sign. Let’s review the other photos, too. There is a YOKE at the shoulders, extending to the upper back but also crossing the tops of the shoulders. This is a design feature, but the double-thickness of fabric strengthens this area where arm movements put stress on the sleeve attachments and upper back seams. SEAM FINISHING – take a look at the photos of interior and exterior seams. You can see the stitching around the armholes, which looks like simple topstitching on the outside. But, when the seams are examined inside you can see that they are completely finished off. They lie completely flat inside and out with the double reinforcement of two rows of stitches. The shirt hem is also carefully finished.

Last of all, the vents at the sleeve cuffs are finished with a decorative PLACKET that reinforces both sides and the top of the opening – another area of stress which frequently frays and tears with wear. Also worth a mention is that the buttonholes are very well-finished and only the second one from the top, which would be the one most frequently opened and closed with normal wear, shows some fraying. I can and will repair that with some hand-done stitches.

All in all, this “simple” mid-priced shirt is a quality garment with styling and construction that make it flattering and comfortable to wear, as well as long-lasting. When was the last time you saw these features on clothing in a retail store? If you do and you like it, Grab It, but you see why I love true vintage garments. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

P.S. I’ll update you on the stain removal story.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SUPER-CLASSIC WARDROBE ELEMENT FROM THE EARLY 1960’S – THE SHORT-SLEEVED COTTON BLOUSE

Here we see all of the elements – a Peter Pan collar, roll-up cuffs, 100% cotton fabric and an emphasis on “easy care”. Manufacturers and designers of the 1950’s and 1960’s capitalized on making women’s lives easier and more “luxurious” by selling products that helped them to spend more time away from the kitchen and laundry room. Strawberry motifs had their day, too, and were often seen in prints and decorations on skirts, dresses and sweaters.

The Arrow company, well-known manufacturer of men’s daily apparel, also branched into a women’s line back when a Misses size 10 was tiny but also very commonly worn by the women of that day. Imagine opening your front door in the U.S. on a world where most women wore a modern size 4 and stood about 5’3″ tall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S DOES THE CLASSIC CAMP SHIRT IN 1940’S STYLE

1970’S DOES THE CLASSIC CAMP SHIRT IN 1940’S STYLE

This camp shirt is 1940’s in design, with the wing collar and dolman sleeves. You can’t see it on Stella, but they are almost bat-wing cut. Made by a company that was popular for a while in the 1970’s, it’s a very good retro reproduction. Love the colors and the lightweight woven fabric – poly/cotton blend.

Casual clothing, especially, seems to span the decades sometimes with very little change. Something I can enjoy for a long time!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s – ’50s LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT SWEATER OR BLOUSE

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s - '50s LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT SWEATER OR BLOUSE

Lovely nylon knit sweater-blouse in soft green. Perfect for making a transition to the cold weather. By Canterbury – a company which was known for beautiful cardigans, too. What’s the special magic about this one?

Look at the fit.  The knit drapes so nicely and it is full-fashioned, which always improves the way that a sweater fits the body.  At the neckline there are many tiny vintage shell buttons – the kind that are substantial and well-shaped, even though they are very small. They do allow you to close the neckline, if desired, but are mostly for decoration.  I just love that button detailing.

As long as you protect it from snags and stains, an item like this is very easy to care for. Hand washing (or delicate in a newer machine) is best, with similar colors.  This avoids stretching and, also, protects the color.  Nylon can absorb other colors in the wash so it’s always best to wash it alone or to avoid washing it with contrasting shades.  If you want to change the color of a nylon item, they accept dye very well.  Just be sure to follow the directions very carefully because they may end up streaky if you don’t.

With any kind of pants or a pencil, a-line or pleated skirt (depending on your figure) it looks wonderful.  This is how it was worn back in the day. Put a scarf at the neck, or pearls.  Perfect for every-day or dressed up – clothing of this quality is always elegant.

I found this at a small vintage shop, on the sale rack. I usually find the best things in unlikely places and at unheard of prices! I wonder who wore this one and where? You just never know . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S MINK-TRIMMED BLOUSE – ANOTHER TREASURE FOUND NEW ZEALAND

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother rare find!  This one was not a high-end item when it was made, but it is an iconic piece with mink-trimmed sleeves.  I have a few of these garments with sleeves like this but don’t find them often.

Metallic thread on sheer black fabric, with “Autumn Haze” mink cuffs.  Buttons up the back.  Back in the day, companies that produced medium-priced clothing still made some “luxury” items that the average woman could afford, and they made them well.

What a pleasure to discover this one!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION

A FAVORITE FORTIES SKIRT & BLOUSE FOR FALL, WITH A COORDINATING JACKET – AS ALWAYS, TRUE VINTAGE

IMG_1002 IMG_1003This combo is perfect for early autumn.  Three of my favorite separates, which are very versatile.

The blouse is a silky fabric – maybe silk or might be a synthetic of the time – in cafe’ au lait  with black polka dots. It’s so pretty here, or with pants or a suit.

The bolero jacket by Fashion Frock is also a favorite.  It’s a tweedy brown/black fabric with a black velveteen collar and fills out the ensemble nicely.

The skirt is wonderful!  Black velveteen with a big bow behind, between the buttons.  It’s also got a hem that dips a bit in the back.  Dressed up or down, so many ways to wear it and it’s so cute!

All these pieces are from the Forties or early Fifties.  That’s always a favorite era for me, and I so LOVE finding things that I can put together in lots of different ways . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S COCKTAIL/DINNER DRESS AND A FAVORITE 1940’S BLOUSE IN EMERALD

Sorry I didn’t get this photo into my St. Patrick’s Day series.  Can you imagine that dress worn under the emerald green satin evening coat I showed then?  Perfect!

Both these garments are in a lightweight fabric.  The blouse is probably a rayon georgette and the dress in a crinkly rayon or poly that is lined with acetate.  Pearl buttons on the blouse and a rhinestone detail on the bow belt of the dress. Stella is wearing my favorite leather Deliso – style pumps from the Eighties.   IMG_0954

The dress has a well-known label of the time which I have shown before – L’Aignon (the spelling might be a bit off).  A bright jewel tone like this and filmy fabric could be worn any time of year, but I like it in Spring or Fall.

These are not new finds – I’ve had them for a while and they are keepers!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY .COM

NEAT, NEAT FIND! A 1970’S – 1980’S MIDI-BLOUSE

Another true vintage retro-style discovery. I love, love, love finding super vintage separates!! This rayon blouse by Esprit will be great with my white 1940’s – style sailor pants, my 1970’s white suit, and, and, and, etc. The style era is about 1935 – 1955. It’s in beautiful condition and fits. The only thing I plan on doing is adding some modest – size shoulder pads to perfect the fit on my body. This also may help the keep the collar in line under jackets. And, I might turn up the cuffs on the sleeves. They are perfectly finished to do this without any additional sewing.

A little style tweak here and there is always fun, as well as making sure that the fit is just right for you, which can make all the difference in the world. With well-made garments, as so many true vintage ones are, alterations are often easier. When a piece is cut well, changing the size a bit doesn’t throw the lines off in a wonky way or require a lot of restyling. It’s harder to do with clothing made for imprecise sizes and without attention to detail.

So, there. A little snooty? But, so true . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TAILORED BLOUSE THAT IS BOTH TRUE VINTAGE AND RETRO . . . . . . . . . .

1940’s styling from the early 1970’s, when a Forties wave was happening in fashion. Under the Shirt Accent label, this blouse has Dolman sleeves, a ’40’s style wing collar and side seam vents at the waistline.

As is often seen with vintage tailoring, the blouse is purposed to be very versatile. It can be worn casually, un-tucked with jeans, pants or shorts. However, dressed up a bit with skirts and high-waist slacks it will tuck in nicely.

No doubt, this garment had been someone’s staple for 45 – 50 years with only one tiny seam repair needed. Now it will be mine for another 50?

Tomorrow we’ll be traveling back in time to a much earlier era . . . . . . . .. . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM