Tag Archives: shirt

TRUE VINTAGE ASSORTMENT OF 1940’S TO 1950’S SEPARATES, LEISURE GARMENTS AND JEWELRY

Starting off with ladies’ uniforms for popular leisure and volunteer activities – women’s bowling and the Girl Scouts. Here are a team member’s uniform and a Scout leader’s. Many mid-century women took part in these activities during their spare time to enjoy and contribute to their communities.

Travel became a big part of 1950’s family life. What could be easier in order to take an “exotic” vacation than to go to Mexico or the new State of Hawaii? These were popular destinations and many women returned with a hand-painted skirt or traditional printed shirts like the ones above.

With the restoration of access to fine fabrics and sewing notions beautiful blouses were manufactured for retail again. Costume jewelry was abundant again. I love this accordion-style stretch bracelet design. So ingenious and convenient. One size fits all and no links or fasteners to break. This one’s perfect for celebrating U.S. 250th anniversary of independence from oppressive British rule. It was a time of hope and vision.

Despite surface appearances, today is the same. Let’s look forward that way. Tomorrow we’ll step into the 1960’s, also a decade of revolution and change. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

JUST FOUND – VINTAGE LADIES CLASSIC SHIRT WITH EXCEPTIONAL TAILORING

This blouse was worth collecting. I immediately recognized the fine cotton fabric and exceptional tailoring detail, worthy of mid-century ladies shirts though I suspect that this one was made in the 1980’s or ’90’s. The most interesting features are the French cuffs and the distinctively-shaped wing collar. Nicely fitted with front and back darts and a finished, straight hem. The seams are incredibly neat and overcast so carefully that they will stay strong for many years. They have also been reasonably well-matched. Little cufflinks are made from matching buttons but, of course, you could substitute any pair of cufflinks that you own. It’s also nice to see dyed-to-match buttons in a true vintage style as well as a covered-button placket construction, though these are not as unusual.

It’s always a thrill for me to find a garment made to these exacting standards. Finding one in any retail establishment, even lots of expensive ones, is rare. Just had to show you these recent finds but tomorrow we’ll return to the 1940’s and Post-WWII era. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

RARE TRUE VINTAGE PRE-WWII AND WARTIME LADIES’ BLOUSES

Here are two of my oldest women’s blouses and two of the most interesting. What more can I say about the blue one? Not sure if it was home-tailored by a creative and fashion-forward gal, but I think so. Perfectly unique and attention-grabbing. What fun! Love it!!

The second blouse is from about the same time frame, but much more classic. You can see from the label that it was commercially-made and the Sanforized cotton designation puts it squarely after 1930. The Sailor collar styling was really popular for children beginning in the 1800’s, or before, but became a “thing” in women’s fashion especially in the years surrounding major wars, as did other types of military-inspired styling. It’s a classic sportswear item from the mid-century and could have been worn with a skirt, too, when women rarely wore pants or shorts.

The unusual thing about it is the tartan-weave trim. I can’t decide what may have inspired that but this blouse may have been sold in Great Britain or, possibly, was a homegrown Japanese take on U.S. and U.K. style, made to be worn locally in Japan. Some of that kind of thing was happening in Japan even decades before WWII. See how these investigative mysteries become more complex the deeper you go? I’d planned on showing more blouses today, but these two easily fill the space. I’ll continue with more tomorrow.

In the meantime, this is a NEWS FLASH! Yesterday I was on a new investigation and discovered true vintage and exceptionally-made retro garments. Both need a touch of hand-repair, so today will be a sewing day but I will post them soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1970’S TAILORED SHIRT

Boring old shirt, right? Wrong. Let’s start with the most important characteristic: 1. MAKERS LABEL/ BRAND: Labels are made of soft cloth and attached at the neckline, firmly stitched along two sides. Fabric content, wrinkle resistance and wash-ability are clearly marked. Information is embroidered on the cloth, rather than printed, which will last longer. Any brand which identifies itself as “Shirtmakers” is likely to be of higher quality in all respects. There are no other tags in side seams. These labels won’t bother the wearer or easily come loose. The name Ms. SERO clearly identifies it as being a 1970’s brand, when the Women’s Liberation movement was “new” again, gaining popularity, and the title Ms. was beginning to replace the use of Miss or Mrs..

2. FABRIC: The plaid is beautiful. The material has a light, very silky-soft hand. Part of this must be age, but part is due to the fact that this fabric is tightly-woven. It’s a poly/cotton blend, which adds washing convenience, but it’s obviously a higher quality textile, also. Wrinkle resistant fabric was a slightly more upscale feature at that time, as today. The mystery of its history is deepened by the appearance of a shadow stain illuminated by the digital camera photo. The quality of the fabric will be reflected in how well it will release the stain. That will require further investigation, as it was obviously overlooked when the evidence was found. Doesn’t look like blood, but . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3. STYLE/DESIGN: The Peter Pan collar, of course, the plaid and the basic menswear cut; Classic elements of style which are often seen throughout the decades, though the Peter Pan collar design originated in 1905 and was first used in children’s clothing. It didn’t become iconic to women’s garments until the Pre- and Post-WW2 mid-century eras. Elements of menswear styling have been seen in women’s clothing ever since women began wearing shirts and pants.

4. TAILORING DETAILS: After the fabric quality passes muster, this is where the rubber really hits the road. The best clothing, even in very plain styles, will have “tells” indicating their value in fine tailoring methods. TOPSTITCHING can be a design element when it’s visible on the outside, but also strengthens seams and attachments. See the stitching on the collar, which will help it to maintain its shape without stiffening. The stitching is very even in appearance – a good sign. Let’s review the other photos, too. There is a YOKE at the shoulders, extending to the upper back but also crossing the tops of the shoulders. This is a design feature, but the double-thickness of fabric strengthens this area where arm movements put stress on the sleeve attachments and upper back seams. SEAM FINISHING – take a look at the photos of interior and exterior seams. You can see the stitching around the armholes, which looks like simple topstitching on the outside. But, when the seams are examined inside you can see that they are completely finished off. They lie completely flat inside and out with the double reinforcement of two rows of stitches. The shirt hem is also carefully finished.

Last of all, the vents at the sleeve cuffs are finished with a decorative PLACKET that reinforces both sides and the top of the opening – another area of stress which frequently frays and tears with wear. Also worth a mention is that the buttonholes are very well-finished and only the second one from the top, which would be the one most frequently opened and closed with normal wear, shows some fraying. I can and will repair that with some hand-done stitches.

All in all, this “simple” mid-priced shirt is a quality garment with styling and construction that make it flattering and comfortable to wear, as well as long-lasting. When was the last time you saw these features on clothing in a retail store? If you do and you like it, Grab It, but you see why I love true vintage garments. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

P.S. I’ll update you on the stain removal story.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SUPER-CLASSIC WARDROBE ELEMENT FROM THE EARLY 1960’S – THE SHORT-SLEEVED COTTON BLOUSE

Here we see all of the elements – a Peter Pan collar, roll-up cuffs, 100% cotton fabric and an emphasis on “easy care”. Manufacturers and designers of the 1950’s and 1960’s capitalized on making women’s lives easier and more “luxurious” by selling products that helped them to spend more time away from the kitchen and laundry room. Strawberry motifs had their day, too, and were often seen in prints and decorations on skirts, dresses and sweaters.

The Arrow company, well-known manufacturer of men’s daily apparel, also branched into a women’s line back when a Misses size 10 was tiny but also very commonly worn by the women of that day. Imagine opening your front door in the U.S. on a world where most women wore a modern size 4 and stood about 5’3″ tall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S DOES THE CLASSIC CAMP SHIRT IN 1940’S STYLE

1970’S DOES THE CLASSIC CAMP SHIRT IN 1940’S STYLE

This camp shirt is 1940’s in design, with the wing collar and dolman sleeves. You can’t see it on Stella, but they are almost bat-wing cut. Made by a company that was popular for a while in the 1970’s, it’s a very good retro reproduction. Love the colors and the lightweight woven fabric – poly/cotton blend.

Casual clothing, especially, seems to span the decades sometimes with very little change. Something I can enjoy for a long time!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s – ’50s LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT SWEATER OR BLOUSE

TRUE VINTAGE 1940s - '50s LIGHTWEIGHT KNIT SWEATER OR BLOUSE

Lovely nylon knit sweater-blouse in soft green. Perfect for making a transition to the cold weather. By Canterbury – a company which was known for beautiful cardigans, too. What’s the special magic about this one?

Look at the fit.  The knit drapes so nicely and it is full-fashioned, which always improves the way that a sweater fits the body.  At the neckline there are many tiny vintage shell buttons – the kind that are substantial and well-shaped, even though they are very small. They do allow you to close the neckline, if desired, but are mostly for decoration.  I just love that button detailing.

As long as you protect it from snags and stains, an item like this is very easy to care for. Hand washing (or delicate in a newer machine) is best, with similar colors.  This avoids stretching and, also, protects the color.  Nylon can absorb other colors in the wash so it’s always best to wash it alone or to avoid washing it with contrasting shades.  If you want to change the color of a nylon item, they accept dye very well.  Just be sure to follow the directions very carefully because they may end up streaky if you don’t.

With any kind of pants or a pencil, a-line or pleated skirt (depending on your figure) it looks wonderful.  This is how it was worn back in the day. Put a scarf at the neck, or pearls.  Perfect for every-day or dressed up – clothing of this quality is always elegant.

I found this at a small vintage shop, on the sale rack. I usually find the best things in unlikely places and at unheard of prices! I wonder who wore this one and where? You just never know . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE 1950’S MINK-TRIMMED BLOUSE – ANOTHER TREASURE FOUND NEW ZEALAND

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother rare find!  This one was not a high-end item when it was made, but it is an iconic piece with mink-trimmed sleeves.  I have a few of these garments with sleeves like this but don’t find them often.

Metallic thread on sheer black fabric, with “Autumn Haze” mink cuffs.  Buttons up the back.  Back in the day, companies that produced medium-priced clothing still made some “luxury” items that the average woman could afford, and they made them well.

What a pleasure to discover this one!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION

A FAVORITE FORTIES SKIRT & BLOUSE FOR FALL, WITH A COORDINATING JACKET – AS ALWAYS, TRUE VINTAGE

IMG_1002 IMG_1003This combo is perfect for early autumn.  Three of my favorite separates, which are very versatile.

The blouse is a silky fabric – maybe silk or might be a synthetic of the time – in cafe’ au lait  with black polka dots. It’s so pretty here, or with pants or a suit.

The bolero jacket by Fashion Frock is also a favorite.  It’s a tweedy brown/black fabric with a black velveteen collar and fills out the ensemble nicely.

The skirt is wonderful!  Black velveteen with a big bow behind, between the buttons.  It’s also got a hem that dips a bit in the back.  Dressed up or down, so many ways to wear it and it’s so cute!

All these pieces are from the Forties or early Fifties.  That’s always a favorite era for me, and I so LOVE finding things that I can put together in lots of different ways . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM