Tag Archives: clothing

Nothing fabulous, but SO EARLY ‘SEVENTIES!

I was hopeful at first – such a pretty, bright, abstract feather print. Even the maker’s label looked promising. “Mardi Modes New York”; embroidered cloth label, attached firmly at the neckline in the old folded style. There’s even an RN number, which makes the brand “legitimate”. But, in reality this blouse is stuck in that early 1970’s period which saw polyester becoming the fabric of choice for most garments. They worked their way from 1960’s Mod and casual clothing into the professional office and dressy venues. Some were made very well, up to earlier mid-century standards, but many were somewhere in-between or frankly cheap. In any case, I doubt you would have seen one in the boardroom, unless the boss’s secretary was present; but that’s another blog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The in-between level of quality is what we see in this example. Best features include: 1. The well-done brand label. 2. Artistic print on the fabric. 3. Pearlized buttons with stems. 4. A button under the bow-tie which improves the fit at the neckline. 5. A hand-finished hem. On the other hand, 1. The textile quality is just OK. 2. The blouse isn’t fitted well and doesn’t hold its shape. 3. The vents at the cuffs are very poorly finished (hardly finished at all).

So, the verdict is: Interesting, but disappointing. Let’s see if we can do better with a blouse of a similar genre that is the only outlier of the group, time-wise. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1970’S TAILORED SHIRT

Boring old shirt, right? Wrong. Let’s start with the most important characteristic: 1. MAKERS LABEL/ BRAND: Labels are made of soft cloth and attached at the neckline, firmly stitched along two sides. Fabric content, wrinkle resistance and wash-ability are clearly marked. Information is embroidered on the cloth, rather than printed, which will last longer. Any brand which identifies itself as “Shirtmakers” is likely to be of higher quality in all respects. There are no other tags in side seams. These labels won’t bother the wearer or easily come loose. The name Ms. SERO clearly identifies it as being a 1970’s brand, when the Women’s Liberation movement was “new” again, gaining popularity, and the title Ms. was beginning to replace the use of Miss or Mrs..

2. FABRIC: The plaid is beautiful. The material has a light, very silky-soft hand. Part of this must be age, but part is due to the fact that this fabric is tightly-woven. It’s a poly/cotton blend, which adds washing convenience, but it’s obviously a higher quality textile, also. Wrinkle resistant fabric was a slightly more upscale feature at that time, as today. The mystery of its history is deepened by the appearance of a shadow stain illuminated by the digital camera photo. The quality of the fabric will be reflected in how well it will release the stain. That will require further investigation, as it was obviously overlooked when the evidence was found. Doesn’t look like blood, but . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3. STYLE/DESIGN: The Peter Pan collar, of course, the plaid and the basic menswear cut; Classic elements of style which are often seen throughout the decades, though the Peter Pan collar design originated in 1905 and was first used in children’s clothing. It didn’t become iconic to women’s garments until the Pre- and Post-WW2 mid-century eras. Elements of menswear styling have been seen in women’s clothing ever since women began wearing shirts and pants.

4. TAILORING DETAILS: After the fabric quality passes muster, this is where the rubber really hits the road. The best clothing, even in very plain styles, will have “tells” indicating their value in fine tailoring methods. TOPSTITCHING can be a design element when it’s visible on the outside, but also strengthens seams and attachments. See the stitching on the collar, which will help it to maintain its shape without stiffening. The stitching is very even in appearance – a good sign. Let’s review the other photos, too. There is a YOKE at the shoulders, extending to the upper back but also crossing the tops of the shoulders. This is a design feature, but the double-thickness of fabric strengthens this area where arm movements put stress on the sleeve attachments and upper back seams. SEAM FINISHING – take a look at the photos of interior and exterior seams. You can see the stitching around the armholes, which looks like simple topstitching on the outside. But, when the seams are examined inside you can see that they are completely finished off. They lie completely flat inside and out with the double reinforcement of two rows of stitches. The shirt hem is also carefully finished.

Last of all, the vents at the sleeve cuffs are finished with a decorative PLACKET that reinforces both sides and the top of the opening – another area of stress which frequently frays and tears with wear. Also worth a mention is that the buttonholes are very well-finished and only the second one from the top, which would be the one most frequently opened and closed with normal wear, shows some fraying. I can and will repair that with some hand-done stitches.

All in all, this “simple” mid-priced shirt is a quality garment with styling and construction that make it flattering and comfortable to wear, as well as long-lasting. When was the last time you saw these features on clothing in a retail store? If you do and you like it, Grab It, but you see why I love true vintage garments. Stay tuned for more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

P.S. I’ll update you on the stain removal story.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . in a neglected storage locker, 8 varied items of mid-century true vintage clothing evidence turned up; Seven shirts/blouses and one 3-season jacket were tucked away in dark corners. At first glance, they may seem “ho-hum” but careful examination proved why they had been collected and kept. Each one contains a variety of clues worth noticing and discussing.

So, I will be presenting these items individually with details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FABULOUS HISTORICAL SHIRT FIND WITH PERFECT, PERFECT TAILORING!

A super, surprise find of 5 dead stock tailored shirts from the British House, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, which permanently closed in 2016 after the company was unable to find a new buyer. Started in 1928 by several U.S. entrepreneurs, it was one of a group of stores located in high-end shopping areas in several major cities. This history of selling more or less elite merchandise is supported by the original tags on these shirts, which show a price of $121.50.

It’s so fun to find this little bit of fashion history but I couldn’t be more delighted for several reasons. The tailoring, as you would expect, is superb. Three of the shirts are 100% cotton and two are a 65-35 poly-cotton blend. At first glance, I expected them to have come from a Western-wear store so I’m not sure who copied whom when these styles were originated.

The next best things are the tailoring and fitting. They are exceptionally well-made but also have a wonderful fit that is very hard to find now. The design is casual but the fitting is uptown. Perfect on Stella (and me!).

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A CUTE LITTLE HOME-SEWN COTTON CIRCLE SKIRT FROM THE MID-CENTURY

In an unexpected place, this was my first find. A full circle, this skirt is pure fun. From the carved button to the barbershop braid to the bright red tier it might have been worn with a peasant blouse in the 1940’s, the 1950’s or even the early 1960’s. Home-based seamstresses used to use notions from their stockpile of previous years, so the button, zipper, braid and even the fabric could have been from years before this garment was actually made BUT, all things considered, I place this skirt in the post-war 1940’s or early to mid-1950’s.

The length and tiny waist measurement (22″) back up this assessment. I had to get the zipper back on track, but otherwise perfect! A great start to my brief investigation, but there’s more to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

2 “NEW” FINDS COMING OVER THE CLOUD-WAVES SOON

This agent is currently pre-occupied with preparations for a temporary move of base camps. A relocation of operations must take place periodically, but cannot necessarily interrupt on-going sleuthing activity. Results of a recent impromptu investigation will be broadcast soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A COTTON SUMMER DRESS LOOK, EARLY 1960’S – STYLE

Once we get past the turn of the 1950’s to ’60’s decade, boy – do styles really start to change! This one is maybe a little more adventurous than the norm because it was custom-made. Compared to the dress from yesterday, the style is free and easy. There’s a V-neckline and fuller skirt though the below-knee hemline remains, but without stiff tailoring or crinoline layers underneath like so many of the Fifties frocks. The print, colors and belt say “Look at me!”.

Which, of course, makes the role very different for our agent in the field. No blending into the background this time, and the trend continues . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

5 OR 10 YEARS (AT LEAST) BEFORE THE TIKI TORCHES, A 1950’S VERSION OF THE PATIO DRESS

A darling little sleeveless cotton day-dress could go to town, to the park or to tea in very proper style. It’s a little early yet for the State Fair or ice-cream socials but that’s where it really belongs. Polka dot prints and ric-rac trim were common in the 1950’s and, always, defined waistlines and belts. I’m still not quite ready for this, but there’s always the ever-popular cardigan sweater . . . . . .

Can’t get away from it – climate change with 80-degree days followed by 40 degrees today. See, the Universe loves us. It taught us all about packing to dress in layers for travel and now we have a new skill that can be used everyday, everywhere!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MAYBE A LITTLE BIT EARLY FOR THE TIKI TORCHES, BUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Good-bye coats! Patio enthusiasts will be hauling out the grill about now. Stella is decked out in her oh-so-fashionable vintage lounging dress from Henri Bendel, by a specialty maker. Love the color combo – very distinctive.

Not much cover for wearing a wire here, but a thigh holster can easily conceal a tape measure, cellphone, lock-pick and other small tools of the trade. As long as there’s a big bush or a garden shed to step behind, she’s set. Of course, an indoor party would be a cinch.

No, I’m not suggesting break-and-enter or other similar crimes. However, during an investigation in an unfamiliar locale there are many times when a photo, measurement or even a GPS locater can come in handy. Occasionally, this agent has encountered old locked boxes, as well. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CAN’T BELIEVE THIS WEATHER! TIME TO ADJUST THE GAME-PLAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

It’s just so crazy – suddenly WHOOMPH! we’re in patio-days temperatures. We went from no visible leaves to a forest of green within 1 week. I’m not complaining, but my plans to vet the “summer” evidence file got moved way ahead. An investigator always must be prepared for an unexpected change of plan. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM