PLUSH VELVET-COVERED VICTORIAN JEWEL BOX FOR A LADY’S VANITY TABLE

My great-great grandmother’s jewelry box. Unfortunately, one of the flasks for perfume or cologne (often called toilet water back in the day, but I hesitate to use that term now) was lost or broken. However, this vanity accessory is in great shape. The true color is a more bluish cranberry red. The square-shaped tray in the center lifts up to reveal another compartment below.

This piece is large – about 14″ wide by 7″ deep and 6″ high. Completely covered in velvet with satin liner. However, the Victorian tendency to over-embellishment and wastefulness in design is evident. The darn thing is heavy and holds very little jewelry. You see on top formed places for a bracelet or two and a few rings plus necklaces or pins at the side. Down below there’s a little more room, but not a lot. The spaces below where the bottles sit are inaccessible and don’t hold anything. This would never be practical for modern women of our lifetime. However, we must admit that the tendency to over-accumulate stuff is something that the post-war generations after World War II have to own. I’m sure that great-great grandma was thrilled with this. But then, she wasn’t a sleuth, to the best of my knowledge.

Think of the hidden compartments which could have been installed . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MORE FROM THE VICTORIAN ARCHIVE – A MOURNING BROOCH AND NECKLACE

After several tries, here’s a good close-up view of this Victorian to Edwardian era mourning jewelry from the late 1800’s to very early 1900’s. Commonly worn after the deaths of close family members, this type of jewelry was usually set with onyx, obsidian, black glass or jet stones. The blank portrait area on the pendant is the aspect I find most ominous. So very glad that this morbid tradition has, for the most part been abandoned, at least in the United States.

The brief wearing of black armbands is less concerning and it is good that, in some cases, people who are recovering from a serious loss can be identified and respected. Though it could come in very handy as an element of disguise, I’m not likely ever to use it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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EARLY 1900’S FACE POWDER COMPACT CHATELAINE

This is really special – it comes from my family. Can’t say which of the grannies or aunties it belonged to, but one of them carried it before the 1930’s. Can you imagine – it still contains some of the powder and rouge that she used!

It’s a pretty messy deal, but you can see that there is an attractive little lever to hold one of the powder puffs in place, no doubt to prevent the two powders from mixing. Well, good luck on that, but I guess it worked well enough.

On top of that, the compact then fastened on to a clip somewhere on her belt or pocket or in a purse. Powdering one’s nose was an important beauty ritual for women at least until the end of the mid-century. They must have sprinkled cosmetic across the entire world. Take care, damsels of intrigue. If a clever investigator could suss out the exact shade and formulation of the evidence left behind, s/he might be on your trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR SWEATER-DRESS? YES, APPARENTLY SO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Who would have thought? Until the mother of a friend gave me a 2-piece sweater-dress that she had made for herself in 1952, I never would have guessed it. That dress was a day-dress, whereas this one is dressy. It may even be from the 1940’s. It is hand-knitted from some kind of heavy synthetic yarn, which would make sense for that time period.

Previously, I would never have expected to see something like this before the 1960’s. It just goes to show that there is always more to learn and that clues often come from unexpected sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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OKAY, LET’S GO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (AGAIN) FOR ANOTHER 1960’S WEDDING(?)

Now we’re Prairie – Victorian, or some combination of the 1800s. Empire waistlines were in style earlier in that century and high necklines with tight sleeves mostly in the 1890’s. The late 1960’s and early 1970’s fell in love with the 1800’s fashion. Think early Gunne Sax. This was especially true for white cotton lingerie undergarments, sleepwear and casual clothing but also spilled over into some day dresses and formals. In this case, a white structured gown was likely meant for a wedding or, at the least, some kind of formal occasion

This one is all 20th century fad fashion, with a zip up the back and polyester fabric. But, it was fun while the trend lasted. Not the best disguise, however, unless you’re in the theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MID-1960’S WEDDING – PATIO – HOSTESS GOWN. THINGS WERE CHANGING PRETTY RADICALLY BACK THEN, TOO, AND UNPREDICTABLE

Although there were some radical fashion changes in the 1920’s and 1930’s when women’s clothing styles went edgy for a few years and a lot of necessary changes because of the Depression and wartime restrictions of the ’30’s and 1940’s, the relative peace and prosperity of the 1950’s saw bridal styles snap back into the traditional Princess mode. Then, in the 1960’s, people had some trouble deciding how they wanted things to be, so mid-Sixties trends were all over the place.

Though definitely headed in the non-traditional direction, this gown by a minor-league designer sticks to the standard of careful tailoring and hangs on to the style elements we’d been used to seeing like lace, bows and tiny covered buttons. It’s made of a high quality linen-like fabric. But, unlike the usual wedding designs, this one doesn’t scream WEDDING DRESS at first glance, as most designs always did before the 1960’s.

I suspect that this frock was meant primarily to be for a wedding, but our heroine could get away with it at a swanky party or even lounging by the pool on a weekend. The real clues to break the case would probably not be revealed until a trip to the dry-cleaners or a forensics lab – when and where did she drink that Martini? and those tiny traces of blood? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A REALLY RARE FIND – AN ART DECO 1930’S GOWN FOR A SLINKY EVENING OR A FASHIONABLE WEDDING

Another surprise find, as so many are. What would espionage be without the intrigue? A whole lot less fun, that’s for sure.

This dress is big on Stella, so the full impact of the fit isn’t evident. Though it’s not cut on the bias, it definitely has slinky fit potential. A nightgown wouldn’t be likely to have a long zipper down the side, especially when they were always metal, so this is obviously a dress designed for an Occasion. And, also, to be worn without much in the way of undergarments. Oh, the Flirty Thirties!

We’ll be in the Forties for at least a couple of days. Though I showed you Stella’s wedding outfit a little while ago, I may revisit it since it’s such an important part of the file. More to come Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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IT’S A BIG FILE! LET’S KEEP LOOKING AT LATE 1930’S – EARLY 1950’S

Here’s a beautiful gown from 1942 which I discovered via clandestine information filtered through the espionage grapevine. It was a surprise and fabulous find and so wonderful to get first-hand intelligence about the history! This was originally a department store purchase imported from Europe. What a gorgeous veil, with excellent disguise potential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM