HOW TO SEW WITH TRUE VINTAGE STYLE

Sometimes I come across patterns or notions from the true vintage eras that I love.  It’s worthwhile to pick them up, and I’ll explain why , , , , ,

Whether you sew or not, if you want to copy or have someone else re-make a true vintage garment,  a pattern is a necessity in order to get it right.  Unless you are a master at pattern-making yourself, the original cut of the garment will be impossible to recreate and the result will look like retro – not true vintage.

Beyond the qualities of the true vintage fabric and decorations that are used, the identifying factor of a true vintage design is the cut and, therefore, the way that it fits the body.  There’s no way to cheat on it and the look of the finished garment is unmistakable.

True vintage notions can make a big difference, too.  Buttons, of course, but zippers are probably the most important closure item with regard to getting the fit to be authentic.  Nothing will be more correct than a zipper that is like the original in looks and function.  And, we know how often one of those might need to be replaced . . . . . . .

So, there’s my little rant on that subject.  Of course, there’s lots more to get into if you are a couturier or just an expert needle-worker.  But, it’s worth knowing about, and very interesting when you want to get it perfect.

However, nothing is true vintage except real true vintage, no matter how well it has been reproduced.  But, if you’re very, very good at faking it, it’ll take a master sleuth to expose you . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE END-OF-MOD WOOL SHEATH DRESS

IMG_1737The cut and design of this frock, as unremarkable as it looks (especially in this picture), told me immediately from when and what it was!  It’s a soft wool knit from the late 1960’s.

Beautiful fabric!  And, like the wool dress from a couple of days ago, no itch factor here.  Of course, I’ll still enjoy a gorgeous lingerie slip underneath on a cold, wintery day.  The crocheted trim breaks up the plain lines and the fit is lovely.

So glad that I’ve discovered so many  in-season items recently that are appropriate for this cold that most of us are experiencing now.  For those of you who are not, I’ve still got several summery finds coming up, too.

Later today, I’ll post a little rant about design with pictures  of the true vintage tailoring tools I recently found and how they’re a help to sewing and altering, if that’s something you like to do.  If not, it’s still good to know some of the things that make the difference between  real deal vintage and the copy-cat retro fashions.  Stay tuned . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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LONG-SLEEVED WESTERN-WEAR MEN’S SHIRT FROM THE 1960’S

IMG_1484I’ve been on such a roll finding women’s blouses and shirts these past two months; it’s nice to be able to show a men’s shirt now, and one that’s suitable for the weather.  Classic Western wear styling by a company that specialized in this kind of clothing.

In the western U.S., men wear these shirts and bolo ties to almost every kind of event.  If it’s dressy, the jacket, pants or the fabric will change but a Western shirt can always be a dress-up style.  That’s not quite so true for women, but a Western-style outfit will often be business attire for them, too.

With a well-made version, you can’t go wrong with at least one or two of these garments in your wardrobe.  Some of the true vintage women’s styles have beautiful embroidery, also.

I stay away from modern versions that aren’t so nice.  Some are decorated too much and have lost their classic elegance.  There’s only one way to be sure he’s a real cowboy . . . . . . .. ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY SPRING HAT – SOPHISTICATED AND A LITTLE BIT MOD?

IMG_1750I could see Doris Day in this, about 1960, or a dressed-up Twiggy in 1965.   I suspect that the first guess is more accurate, but you can see some modern elements starting to show as fashion began saying good-bye to tradition.  Kind of between a toque and a pillbox style.

The fabric is more modern, too, with sparkly threads, but the construction is very traditional.  The color is fresh and definitely says Spring or even Easter.  It was a fun hat for women who still bowed to convention, at least on special occasions, but didn’t feel enslaved by it.

Perhaps it was a more mass-produced item, since there is no label from a small designer or specialty shop.  Probably it’s owner picked it up in a department store or women’s clothing chain store.  Specialty hat-makers were on the decline as demand for ladies’ hats began to fall even more than it already had.

Big things were happening in women’s world then . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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YESTERDAY! TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY MINK PILLBOX HAT

IMG_1751Although it’s never, to me, the right thing to support a market for fur, I will continue to cherish these old vintage (50 – 60+ years) pieces of past-time high fashion.  When humanity didn’t know any better, a touch of mink was the ultimate in luxury and chic for a middle-class gal.

This pillbox style is awfully cute with the topknot.  It’s fun to find a true vintage fur that is still in good condition and, since it was so well-made and looked-after, will last for many more years.  I’ll show you two more recent finds in a few days.

However, the faux furs made now are so authentic and affordable that there is no justification for buying any kind of modern animal fur.  As beautiful as furs can be, they’re more beautiful on the animals and the fur trade should be just as dead as the poor creatures that it has killed.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S HAND-MADE CLASSIC LEATHER SLINGBACK PUMPS

IMG_1717What a great color to find!  Deep charcoal gray, in a very classic style.  They’re a perfect companion for most Fall and Winter vintage (or modern, if I must) skirts, casual dresses, suits and slacks.  The best thing, of course, is the construction.

Not only do they have a leather upper, which can still be found these days, but they have a full leather sole.  So, I can keep them forever and have them repaired when necessary.  Try that with a cheap synthetic sole – no way.

Another of my favorite features in true vintage shoes are the leather insoles. And, if they’re printed in gold with the brand name that’s the very best!  Amazingly, I often find that the gold lettering has stayed on really well, even when the shoes had been worn quite a bit.  These show only light wear, with no need for repairs for a long time.  The hardware on the straps, too, is top quality and won’t ever break.

It’s so much fun finding things that won’t call for any special occasion to wear, and  the mid-heels can do anything!  These pumps will become part of my everyday closet.  Love being transported in time on a daily basis . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S – MOHAIR CARDIGAN SWEATER

IMG_1732Red, red, red!  I’ve found several outstanding red items in the past little while – getting me in a Christmas mood a little early.  This beautiful sweater was hand-knitted at a time when lots of women were still doing needlework on a regular basis.

In the favorite yarn of the time  – mohair – maybe with some angora blended in. Every girl had to have a mohair sweater, usually knitted by herself, mom or grandmother.  In this case the knitter put her own name at the neckline.  I think that a few were commercially made, but I’ve rarely seen that.

The buttons are even cute – red plastic, with sailboats stamped on the front.  The nautical theme has always been classic and popular for Spring and maybe says something about the person who wore this.

Anyway, I know I’ll be snuggling in it when I’m in the December holiday mood and right on through February . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S RED FEATHERED HAT

IMG_1720Can you imagine?!  What a fabulous addition to my collection of feathered hats.  What a perfect stunner for the Christmas holidays!!!

Along with the red wool dress from 2 or 3 weeks ago, and a red velveteen that I’ll show a bit later, this hat would make a statement, for sure.

These Sixties feather hats are just so over-the-top.  Can almost compete with the hats from the Forties.  And this color!!!!!  It’s too wonderful not to treat very carefully, but what about part of your costume for a Halloween party . . . . . . . .

I’m just over the moon, as you can see, because of the things I’ve been finding recently.

You’ll have to imagine with me, especially as we get to more of the dresses, how they look off the hanger.  Can’t wait to be able to photograph them on Stella or Madge, to show them off properly.  Of course, Marlene, Celia and Daphne will look smashing in the hats – and I’ve got 3 more of those coming . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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“NEW” DISCOVERY! TRUE VINTAGE LATE 1960’S FLOWER-POWER BLOUSE BY MISTER LEONARD

IMG_1716This is the most wonderful sheer flower-print blouse with big pirate sleeves!!!  It’s so FLOWER POWER in the colors that were popular then.

All the telling tailoring signs of the time are there, too – the cut and the finishing details.  Can’t wait to photograph it on Stella, who will give the style it’s correct shape.

But, the best shape is when I get to wear it!  And, it’s just my size . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BEAUTIFUL TRUE VINTAGE 1960’S DRESSY BLOUSE

IMG_1682Here’s a great picture of a Sixties blouse that would have been worn to a holiday party or a dance.  Not my style, personally, but it’s so perfectly of that time and in such wonderful condition – how could I resist?

With buttons all the way up the back, a well-finished hem made to wear untucked over dress pants or a long skirt and that jabot-type flounce at the collar (SO ’60’s!), it’s another of those garments with British influence.  Could work very well as part of a Halloween costume, too.

The maker’s label is even embroidered in gold thread.  Someone took very good care of this top and kept it for special occasions.  I’ve been really fortunate lately to find so many vintage blouses and shirts in outstanding condition!  Often, these pieces are like slacks – they accumulate so much wear over the years with stains and tears that they’ll end up being discarded by the original owner.

But, thanks to the superior quality of true vintage clothing and the care many of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers took with their wardrobes, some of them are still out there to be discovered . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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