Beautiful wool coats which called for lapel brooches. Umbrellas with handles made of wood, celluloid and other “new” plastics. As always, I love the pretty fabric patterns and bling alongside the tailored elegance of the coats and jackets.
You can see the wartime influence on the first coat with it’s simplicity and lack of detail while a nod to luxury has been made by the velvet collar. Military style influence is visible in the big padded shoulders and the shape of the fur hat. I can really picture Ingrid Bergman wearing a coat like the fitted one – similar to trenchcoat design a la the movie Casablanca. The pale blue version with big pink buttons is moving us toward the 1950’s.
More reasons why the 1940’s fashion decade is probably my favorite. However, the 1950’s are also a big competitor on my favorites list and we’ll travel into the early part of that decade tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Here are two of my oldest women’s blouses and two of the most interesting. What more can I say about the blue one? Not sure if it was home-tailored by a creative and fashion-forward gal, but I think so. Perfectly unique and attention-grabbing. What fun! Love it!!
The second blouse is from about the same time frame, but much more classic. You can see from the label that it was commercially-made and the Sanforized cotton designation puts it squarely after 1930. The Sailor collar styling was really popular for children beginning in the 1800’s, or before, but became a “thing” in women’s fashion especially in the years surrounding major wars, as did other types of military-inspired styling. It’s a classic sportswear item from the mid-century and could have been worn with a skirt, too, when women rarely wore pants or shorts.
The unusual thing about it is the tartan-weave trim. I can’t decide what may have inspired that but this blouse may have been sold in Great Britain or, possibly, was a homegrown Japanese take on U.S. and U.K. style, made to be worn locally in Japan. Some of that kind of thing was happening in Japan even decades before WWII. See how these investigative mysteries become more complex the deeper you go? I’d planned on showing more blouses today, but these two easily fill the space. I’ll continue with more tomorrow.
In the meantime, this is a NEWS FLASH! Yesterday I was on a new investigation and discovered true vintage and exceptionally-made retro garments. Both need a touch of hand-repair, so today will be a sewing day but I will post them soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
As you probably noticed in my last post looking at the 1970’s, I am not very focused on the “modern” styles from that decade because they were not interesting, in my opinion, and generally not of high quality. The same goes for lots of the 1980’s clothing, but I do enjoy some of the New Wave styles and the revival (again!) of 1940’s designs. I don’t have a large archive of New Wave examples because it was a short movement and so trendy that lots of the garments were cheaply-made and didn’t last. However, the Forties revival was a bit more mainstream and produced some dresses, etc., of better quality. The examples above cover this whole spectrum.
The first two frocks are a revival of designs giving a nod to nautical or “sailor” styles. Sailor collars, especially, have shown up on women’s dresses and children’s clothing since the 1800’s and maybe before. Blue and white have been classic color combinations in Spring fashions, too. The first example above with the outsized collar also has 1940’s-style cut, waistline, 3/4 sleeves and midi hemline. It’s a less expensive dress, very trendy and not true navy blue in color. By contrast, the second dress is true to military style with it’s embossed metal buttons, true navy blue and white colors and prominent stripes. The rest of it’s style is more New Wave, with a midriff top and geometric cut. It’s much more elegant and well-made. We saw a LOT of mid-priced floral print midi skirts and shirtwaist dresses, which were very good flashbacks to 1940’s everyday styles. Finally, I do love this brown print rayon dress by a trendy mid-priced designer (forgot her name). It’s a late ’30’s – early ’40’s design with great fabric drape. I also love this halter style floral midi – Very mid – ’40’s!
I rarely cover anything from the high fashion or couture world since my investigations don’t typically take place where those clues are likely to be found, though exceptions to the rule always exist. Tomorrow I’m going back to my primary focus on dresses and accessories actually made before 1970. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Flower-power mini-dresses, traffic light neon colors, military-styling, psychedelic prints! These trends all appeared during the middle years of the 1960’s. Cotton is out – all these dresses are made from some form of synthetic fabric. So different from the previous decades, even though some of the classic details still crop up and garments are still well-made. See the Peter Pan collar on dress #1? The contrasting edging on the yellow sheath? Nehru collar (both military and Asian) and metal hardware on the stop sign red dress? Swirly hallucinogenic op-art on a classic shirtdress style? Perfect reflections of social culture, which was morphing yearly between Peace & Love, End the Vietnam War, Sex, Drugs & Heavy Metal rock n’ roll. In spite of all that, look at the tailoring!!
Pretty lingerie slips were still called for with these fitted frocks but the longer lengths were no longer suitable. Knee-length, at the longest, and mini-length became available. Wonderful nylon that tolerates hot water and can be dyed even allowed some creative girl to do a tie-dye.
Tomorrow we’ll take a stroll in some late 1960’s dresses and visit Carnaby Street. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
From my just-about-favorite era, this is one of the items I have acquired from a vintage clothing shop and I just LOVE it. The shape and all the contrast trim is so smart! It has a bit of a military vibe, which so many wartime designs tended to.
As always, it is very well-made and tailored in mid-gray wool with charcoal accents on the collar, buttons and cuffs.
Alas, the original skirt was not with it, but it was not difficult to find a charcoal skirt that matches well, though is shorter than most skirts would have been, except during the war when they were shortened due to rationing of fabric.
This color and style is easy to mix and match with different-style skirts and slacks, especially if you stick with the charcoal color. A go-to jacket forever . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
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I’ve been looking for one in my size for a long time and, THERE IT WAS! A real-deal men’s pea jacket in wonderful almost-black close-woven wool, with those buttons with the anchors on them. There are not many guys who wear a size 34, so this catch was elusive, but a good investigator never lets the trail get cold.
These jackets are so warm and have such a wonderful fit. Even a gal with an hourglass shape looks great if the size is right. Remember that these coats are made for working sailors who need protection from the elements while still looking smart and spiffy.
Just right, in time for Fall and Winter weather. Layered over a turtleneck sweater, or a cable-knit, or whatever. I can dress it up and around in lots of ways. I’m just so delighted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
BOOK: HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM
Magicvintagespy 