Category Archives: semi-formal

True Vintage early 1950’s Wasp – Waist Party Dress for Holiday Celebration

This RED beauty is pure 1950’s. The skirt is a full circle, or nearly, and could be worn with a crinoline. Love the boat neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. Simple elegance with no decoration – just fabulous fit and style. The fabric is substantial, but not a taffeta. It’s unlined and still allows for lots of movement in the skirt, especially if it is worn as in this photo without stiff undergarments. No label, so it might have been custom-tailored.

Just like Scarlett O’Hara’s entrance to Melanie’s party in Gone With the Wind, show up in this frock and you’d create a scandal. I wonder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Another 1940’s Gown, this time in Holiday Red

What beautiful fabric! It is substantial but soft and with tiny machine-embroidered diamond shapes all over, which was apparently a “thing” in some Forties material. This might have been a way of making up for the absence of natural fabrics like silk and many of the notions used to decorate clothing before and after WWII.

The style is very simple and I think, like the dress shown yesterday, that it was custom-made. The pattern wouldn’t have been difficult for a home-based seamstress. The neckline in back is a bit lower, but nothing dramatic. The most difficult aspect of the construction is the piecing below the waist and that’s still no big deal. What I like most about it is that it’s just very pretty and so festive and Christmas-y in that fantastic glossy red. I would have collected it for the yards of gorgeous fabric alone! More of that coming – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Home-Sewn 1940’s Wartime Party Dress

A simple frock, probably made while times were lean and rationing had been imposed on the markets. The fabric is heavy – almost like taffeta but not that real deal. Probably some kind of rayon or acetate. The little splurge is the velveteen neckline, but during WWII any dress like this for an average gal was probably a splurge.

Even on a garment this modest, I love to discover the tailoring features that make it unique. In addition to the neckline trim, notice the little fold-overs that accent the shoulders. Shaping makes the bodice and waist trim and produces the full circle skirt. A deep hem allowance is also a luxury on a dress like this since it adds the option of adding length, adds a little weight to help the skirt sway and just makes the dress look like a more expensive garment.

I think it was made for a teen or a very tiny woman, but who knows the real story. Might even have been a Prom dress – good style for Swing dancing ad Jitterbug. What a fun find! Stay tuned for more knee length and midi cocktail frocks as well as full length gowns . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY DOES 1920’S SEMI-FORMAL DRESS

Sometime during a brief 1920’s style revival in the l960’s – 1980’s this frock was produced. It’s not a style that is flattering to everyone but, of course, Stella can pull it off perfectly. In this pure white, it may have been made as a lower-priced wedding costume alternative by some company that made bridal dresses. While obviously not high end, it’s pretty and flirty.

Love the handkerchief hemline! Can you imagine a gown in this style, made of fine silk and satin with handmade lace? During the Gatsby gilded age brides from wealthy families would have been dressed that way. Today it would make a fun Halloween or theater costume. Dresses that are obviously tied to a theme or era are always interesting whether they are true vintage, retro or modern. Of course, I always sleuth for the original evidence. More coming, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1940’S – ’50’S SEMI-FORMAL FROCK WHICH COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN FOR A BRIDE

Such an interesting frock. Midi length on Stella, but she’s tall so it could have been tea or floor length on a woman of short stature. I couldn’t decide whether this dress was tailor-made or purchased at retail, but I could find no labels. I suspect that it was custom-made for a cool-weather wedding and the style really makes me think of some Wartime or Post-war bridal dresses I’ve discovered. Could also have been designed for some other special event . . . . .

Pretty mid-weight textured but glossy fabric which may be synthetic or a blend. Unusual long sleeves; but the best thing about this style is the collar. Each layer is carefully supported around the edge with wire so that it can be shaped by hand. I’ve very rarely seen this and it helped me to date the garment. It came from Australia so I may notice a British influence(?).

More semi-formal and long dresses coming. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Holiday Party Season is Definitely Here. True Vintage Frocks are a MUST!

1960’s or 1970’s style, these red dresses would take you from the Christmas party through Valentine’s Day cocktails and dinner. Both are pretty and sophisticated with similar styles. Like most sisters, however, they’re also quite different. In the 1950’s and 1960’s a sheer over-layer and skirts with lots of gathers were big style features. Very feminine and emphasized a wasp waist. I love the boat neckline and 3/4 sleeves. In the mid-late 1970’s slim and sleek was a silhouette made easy with Quiana nylon fabric, which skimmed the figure while having lots of movement and supreme comfort while disco dancing. Very unfussy and a perfect backdrop for the chain belt. I’ll look for more party clothes and formal dresses. Stay tuned . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS NEW FIND: EARLY 1960’S SEMI-FORMAL POUF DRESS

Perfect example of a Kennedy Era party dress, bought off the rack back in the day. It’s full of clues in the fabrics and construction. Lace overlay fabric which was very popular at that time, 3-layer skirt with a netting crinoline in the middle, AFLCIO Union Workers label, vintage metal zipper with a hook and eye at the neckline and at the waist, and hanging loops sewn in at the shoulder. These dresses are exceptionally well-made although they were reasonably priced. Although it’s a little short on Stella, it fits her pretty well.

I’m always thrilled to find one and each example has some unique features. In this case, the scarf attached at the right shoulder which drapes across the front neckline is a novel addition. It’s even got a detachable rhinestone brooch on the opposite shoulder, suggesting that there might be other ways to style the scarf. As worn above, it makes a tail over the left shoulder, which was a popular design element at that time and also in decades before. In any case, I’ve never seen one exactly like this. Just goes to prove that you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TOTALLY CLASSIC, ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TRUE VINTAGE WARDROBE SHOES. WHAT ARE THEY?

100% LEATHER PENNY LOAFERS. Don’t care who you are, where you are, what your age, what you do; if you want to build a true vintage wardrobe, high quality penny loafers made of leather are a MUST. You might think that this is only an American or western European fashion, but not so. They originated over 100 years ago in Norway and, like the human population, have migrated into mainstream fashion all over the world since then. Men, especially, have been able to wear them as dress shoes since the beginning. They were de rigeuer for high school and college men and coeds at least since WWII; Probably replaced the saddle shoe in most adolescent closets. Mid-century pennies are a strong suggestion.

Highly polished, for smart casual to semi-formal dress. Lightly scuffed or a little dusty for just about everything else. Pretty versatile. Smooth leather in black or cordovan brown is the true classic. The full leather construction is mandatory because it’s original and also allows them to be repaired forever. (OK, a true vintage synthetic sole is acceptable if that is all you can find, but keep looking). In line with my philosophy regarding humane treatment of animals and environmental sustainability, I don’t recommend buying modern retro versions at retail, no matter how nice they are. You can find the real thing at second-hand and they’re better. Also, I’m obviously all about running undercover investigations and that’s a lot more fun because – you just never know. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1950’S POUF SKIRT WASP WAIST FORMAL FROCK

As you know, I’ve been on holiday from the sleuthing trade since late October but had several finds right before that time and also something recent. So, I’m ready to catch you up while I have a bit of time at Headquarters.

A tiny, tiny, tiny dress and SO Fifties! This was a size 5, maybe in ’55. Now a size 00 or smaller. Perfect condition. This was a really exciting discovery, as these frocks have become more and more scarce. Sadly, there is no label inside excepting the all-important Garment Workers tag. It’s always so much fun, and useful data, to have a maker’s label to research or use to tell more of the story. Labels are always a first-line clue.

Fortunately for the investigation, another gown was hiding in the same spot! Did they belong to the same suspect even though they are quite different? Rare clues sometimes travel together. Stay tuned . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM