Category Archives: ’80’s does ’40’s

Classic True Vintage 1980’s does 1940’s Dressy LBD

Not a big-deal frock by any means, but I picked it up because of the clear 1940’s vibe. I’ve seen and own similar dresses that are true late 1940’s editions. Essential tailoring includes the cut which highlights the fabric drape and the fit on the body. Sexy fit without being clingy. Padded shoulders – very Forties, and cap sleeves – moving into the 1950’s. Rhinestone trim, always super mid-century, and a plunging back view with a conservative impression from the front. A fun surprise in any style.

An original 1940’s would be of at least slightly longer length and might have a side zipper. Again, nothing to celebrate but a worthy imitation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Cute LBD with Iconic Mid-century Tailoring Detail

I admit, this dress is no star with regard to overall quality. Very middle-of-the-road in that department, but I couldn’t help being struck by the embroidered sheer mesh bodice. This is a detail that I have seen in 1940’s and early 1950’s frocks; usually not since then. The gold thread gives it a holiday feel which makes styles like this appropriate for Christmas events. The fabric leads me to decide that this garment was made in the 1960’s at the earliest – possibly as late as the 1990’s.

I have to give the designer congrats for using this tailoring again. It’s so attractive and feminine, allowing for an interesting neckline without gapping, buckling or too much de’collete’ to allow it to be truly elegant. This frock drapes well and fits beautifully in the bodice. The only improvements I would point out might be a full lining, which would support the lines better without fullness. That would make it a very sophisticated cocktail dress. .

Of course, this one might have been a late 1970’s disco design in which case you wouldn’t want to add any bulk to the skirt or a potentially sweaty lining, for that matter. In any case, it’s cute and can stand proud exactly as it is. Stay tuned for more cocktail frocks, each with it’s own personal character . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR? FUR REAL OR FAUX? WE HAVE TO THINK ABOUT IT . . . . . . . . .

Last night I was out and about to a theater production and couldn’t reasonably drive a two block distance. Walking was the only choice, which I love, but IT WAS SO COLD!!! My warmest outerwear option, which kept me toasty and comfy, was my post-war beaver jacket from Canada. 75 years old and it’s still snuggly and beautiful. I grieve for the precious animals who (yes, WHO) were sacrificed for vanity and retail profit back in the day and will NEVER buy modern fur products. I advocate for animal rights but also celebrate those lives and gifts by preserving and enjoying elegant fashions from the past for as long as they will last.

I own many gorgeous fur and faux fur pieces made decades ago, before protective legislation and individual conscience stopped some of the fur trade and promoted humane practices. Above is one example, on the left, of an older fur jacket dyed to mimic mink. I cannot identify the fur – could be muskrat. Before the end of WWII, furs considered to be less fine were often processed this way. Other examples, such as the one on the right, are fakes – popular in the 1950’s and beyond. Some have been very convincing even since the 1950’s. Many of those made today look and even feel very authentic. The look is fun and elegant, in a vintage way, plus, as I proved last night, very practical.

Faux fur and secondhand true vintage furs are the best, the ONLY humane and progressive choice. I prefer those from the 1960’s and before. The remaining fur trade is still a blot on humanity, so we must be vigilant in our boycotting of this active market but I don’t see the enjoyment of historical fashions as being hypocritical. I will continue to show you how much I love them. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Undercover Magic, Essential True Vintage Lingerie

No matter what you’re wearing, lingerie pieces are key to making the outfit look right. Preventing lumps, bumps and see-through are only the simplest issues. The proper undergarment also ensures that the fabric lays correctly on your body and allows it to drape without clinging. Above are a very few examples of beautiful slips and only a tiny fraction of my complete collection.

You can see here how lovely the details are. Typically, even the plainest design will have nice little details and excellent tailoring. More elaborate styles are full of lace, embroidery, ribbons, sheer panels, satin straps and, often, some work done by hand. Though most slips are done in neutral, pastel colors, some (especially from the 1950’s to early 1960’s) were made in fabulous vibrant colors. True vintage nylon has a feel like no modern fabric and is absolutely luxurious. So gorgeous they could often be worn as a lightweight dress or skirt on their own.

Look for vintage lingerie that suits your wardrobe. Notice the details. Slips, of course, are the basis if you wear dresses and skirts. Search for cotton slips as well as the more-common nylon ones. In the summer, you will appreciate the difference! It’s also important to match your undergarments to the clothing worn with it – if anything might show or peek out, whether by accident or on purpose, will the color be OK? How will your outer garment move over the fabric of the slip? How will the fabric of the slip react with your skin in hot weather? Lots of things to consider in order to get the best result.

Also, look for other undergarments – in the 1960’s some split slips were made to be worn under culottes and split skirts. “Slips” to be worn under slacks can even be found from the 1960’s and 1970’s. A 1950’s/1960’s girdle was ALWAYS a base foundation for most women at that time (thank goodness, not now!). If you’re wearing a wiggle dress, you may not have a choice in order to make it look right. Silk tap pants from the Twenties are so comfy and perfect under a lightweight dress in the summer. A camisole under a blouse or top can improve the fit, add some warmth on a cold day and sometimes provide a little neckline interest depending on the style. A “bullet bra” is perfect if you want to be a “sweater girl”. Garter belts and girdles are necessary for wearing stockings. A crinoline is important for most mid-century dress styles with circle skirts, especially from the late 1940’s through the early 1960’s. Some dresses have their own, but others require you to add one.

I’ve probably forgotten to mention something but you get the drift. Lingerie is SO important that I probably should always start any series of posts with it. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

More Accessories ESSENTIAL for a True Vintage Wardrobe: Scarves and Ties

True vintage scarves are a must-have. They are generally very well-made with hand-rolled and stitched edges. Often, they are made of silk; if not, the fabric is of very good quality. Mostly, it’s the artwork on printed vintage scarves that is so wonderful. The only essential example I’m not showing here is the souvenir scarf, depicting scenes from a specific place or theme. Mid-century women collected these. Large scarves are great as capes or folded into turbans. Small scarves make cute little collars or accents on handbags or pockets. Every size in between can be worn in a gazillion variations. Lots of books and online tutorials teach you how to do this.

For a menswear outfit, a true vintage necktie is key. I especially love the mid-century graphics. Some 1940’s ties are truly spectacular and the only example I have of this style is a 1970’s/’80’s souvenir tie from Watson’s Desert Inn in the Canary Islands.

Scarves and ties alone can make up a vintage collector’s obsession but I prefer to use them as accessories only. As a very useful clue added to a modern or otherwise banal outfit, they can open unexpected doors. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1980’s DOES ’40’s – ’30’s GLAM RAYON VELVET GOWN

This example is one of the few cases where picking up a more modern garment is worthwhile.  Although it’s definitely retro and not expensively made, this gown has so many of the true-to-style elements that evening frocks from the 1930’s and 1940’s did – I was delighted to see how much of the styling the designers had gotten “right” and couldn’t resist it as a great costume.

For Halloween or a historical play it will be lots of fun and fits me well.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER “NEW” SPRING DRESS – ’80’S DOES ’40’S FLORAL SHIRTWAIST

IMG_1492Never can have too many of these!  Shoulder pads, matching belt and midi length – of course, I like my true 1940’s ones best but the ’80s did some very fun versions, too.

This one, in a soft cotton blend, was worth picking up.  Nice print, good styling, excellent condition.  Someone loved it 35 years ago . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BOOK:  HOW TO FIND THE BEST IN VINTAGE FASHION – AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM

MID-CENTURY SWING DRESS FIND

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Fun find – a custom-tailored frock made sometime between 1960 and 1985.  It’s got overall a great day dress style, harking back to the 1940’s.  The best thing about the styling, I think, is the flared skirt design which will flip and twirl with every movement.  A perfect dress for dancing!

Another neat thing is that the seamstress put in a LONG side zipper so that it’s really easy to put on and take off – no need for contortion or someone to help you zip, as sometimes happens with back zippers.

This is a relatively simple dress, but little clues tell me that the maker put special thought into the styling and construction, which make it special.  Love it!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

PRETTY ’80’S DOES ’40’S FROCK – LOVE THIS VERSION!

What a fun and versatile dress!  I’ll enjoy wearing this one lots of places.  It’s another pretty faithful re-creation that made it worth picking up.  Lovely floral print rayon, a flouncy neckline ruffle, side zip, midi hem and, of course, shoulder pads.

Most retro fashions are not worth much more than for the rubbish heap, but a few makers paid some attention to quality and authentic design.  Well done!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

 

SWISHY, SASSY AND SOPHISTICATED EIGHTIES DOES FORTIES DAY DRESS

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When I don’t find the real 1940’s thing, this will do.  When a dress is as nicely done as this one, I collect it and wear it with no worries.

In a pretty true-to-Forties style, of 100% rayon with an abstract leaf print, this frock wraps in front and ties to one side.  Well-fitting with some smocked elastic in the waistband behind and well-placed buttons and snaps inside to prevent gaps.  This is a design that rivals the best vintage styles with attention to tailoring detail and makes any garment a pleasure to wear.

Modest-sized shoulder pads and a midi-hemline add to the figure-enhancing final result.  Easy, worry-free wear and flattering style never came any better.  Although it’s only baby vintage, just about 35 years old, I’m pleased and will wear it a lot!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM